I bought a Fire Truck

[WM75Guy]

I do know how to operate the PTO to engage pumps. Engage in neutral, once light comes on, shift Allison transmission to drive (but never do until I have valves open)

So lets start with the basics. How to fill.
Here are all my controls and valves.
Talk to me in dummy terms, LOL
How would I fill it?

I see most everything is numbered.

The basics:

The tank should have a fill tower in the hose bed. Pop open the cover and drop in a garden hose to fill the tank. You know it is full when it overflows.

1. Open Tank to Pump
2. Open Tank Fill. Switch into pump gear as your described
3. Raise RPMs up to increase pressure using Vernier throttle. It should twist to lock in place.
4. The 2 large gauges showing incoming pressure (or vacuum if drafting from a water source) and pump pressure. If using tank water one of them will be on 0 PSI and the other showing pump pressure.

If you have a hose connected to a discharge just open and close that valve slowly to charge the hose. Pressure will show on the gauge corresponding to that discharge.

The lower connections are for water into the pump from an external source such as a hydrant. The large 6'" opening with the cap is for either a butterfly valve or Storz valve to connect to a hydrant or supply line from another engine. Just keep it capped. The smaller ones with female swivel connections and cap plugs are for 2 1/2" hose to supply water to the pump. Drafting from a pond or portable tank requires hard suction hose. Water under pressure coming in uses soft hose.

The priming pump is used to draw a vacuum in the pump when drafting from a pond or portable tank. It should have a small oil tank behind the pump panel or on top of it. You shouldn't need it for normal operations, the tank should fill the pump so it draws water in without the need for priming. If needed, just bump the primer for a few seconds till the large gauge shows pressure.

The large handwheel on the top right labeled Relief Valve is a safety device. It allows you to set a pressure that the pump will not exceed. A centrifugal fire pump takes advantage of the pressure coming in. If the pressure on the supply line is 50 PSi and the pump is putting out 100 PSI, the discharge pressure will be 150 PSI. If the supply line pressure increases, it passes through to the discharge pressure. You set the pressure using the Vernier throttle so the handlines have the required nozzle pressure. Then you set the relief pressure slightly above that by rotating the wheel counterclockwise till the pressure drops, then slowly clockwise till you get your pressure back. I would then give it a little more clockwise rotation, say a quarter turn. That way if you get a sudden surge of pressure coming in, it doesn't transfer through to the hose lines throwing folks around. It dumps out the bottom of the,pump. If you are just checking the pump just screw it clockwise till it stops, that way you don't have to worry about it.

 

[AntiqueIron]

Awesome!!!

I love an old drip-troit.

Always wanted a toy hauler like that. Old Brockway in particular.

Someday….

I just bought a fire truck, LOL Why? Well when I was a kid I started out driving many Ford dump trucks with Detroit Diesel power. 6-71, 6V53, 8V53, 8V71. I don't know ANYTHING about fire trucks.
But when I saw the chance to save a 1980 Ford L9000 from getting trashed I bid on it.
My plan was originally to pull the body and put a flatbed on it to haul my antique tractors because I just wanted a cool old Ford. But once I saw it, I don't have the heart to take it apart. So it will be preserved as is.
It has 162,000 KM (100,662 miles) and is powered by a 6V92TA Detroit Diesel with an Allison automatic.
Everything works, and it was still in service, it just now aged out to be re-certified as a front line pumper.
What a sound going down the highway!! Reminded me of why I'm deaf after a life of driving 2 stroke Detroit's and trucks with straight pipes.

 

[Paystar]

Thanks WM75Guy!!

 

[RayIN]

It'll get lousy fuel mileage due to the gearing, but it's a real stump-puller. The first engine I ever drove was a 1947 LaSalle. It met its demise when the man driving it parked too close to a burning house. When the fire got too hot he couldn't get the manual PTO shifter to move to drive so he could drive the engine. It was replaced with a 1972 Ford (can't recall the model)

 

[repete]

The basics:

The tank should have a fill tower in the hose bed. Pop open the cover and drop in a garden hose to fill the tank. You know it is full when it overflows.

1. Open Tank to Pump
2. Open Tank Fill. Switch into pump gear as your described
3. Raise RPMs up to increase pressure using Vernier throttle. It should twist to lock in place.
4. The 2 large gauges showing incoming pressure (or vacuum if drafting from a water source) and pump pressure. If using tank water one of them will be on 0 PSI and the other showing pump pressure.

If you have a hose connected to a discharge just open and close that valve slowly to charge the hose. Pressure will show on the gauge corresponding to that discharge.

The lower connections are for water into the pump from an external source such as a hydrant. The large 6'" opening with the cap is for either a butterfly valve or Storz valve to connect to a hydrant or supply line from another engine. Just keep it capped. The smaller ones with female swivel connections and cap plugs are for 2 1/2" hose to supply water to the pump. Drafting from a pond or portable tank requires hard suction hose. Water under pressure coming in uses soft hose.

The priming pump is used to draw a vacuum in the pump when drafting from a pond or portable tank. It should have a small oil tank behind the pump panel or on top of it. You shouldn't need it for normal operations, the tank should fill the pump so it draws water in without the need for priming. If needed, just bump the primer for a few seconds till the large gauge shows pressure.

The large handwheel on the top right labeled Relief Valve is a safety device. It allows you to set a pressure that the pump will not exceed. A centrifugal fire pump takes advantage of the pressure coming in. If the pressure on the supply line is 50 PSi and the pump is putting out 100 PSI, the discharge pressure will be 150 PSI. If the supply line pressure increases, it passes through to the discharge pressure. You set the pressure using the Vernier throttle so the handlines have the required nozzle pressure. Then you set the relief pressure slightly above that by rotating the wheel counterclockwise till the pressure drops, then slowly clockwise till you get your pressure back. I would then give it a little more clockwise rotation, say a quarter turn. That way if you get a sudden surge of pressure coming in, it doesn't transfer through to the hose lines throwing folks around. It dumps out the bottom of the,pump. If you are just checking the pump just screw it clockwise till it stops, that way you don't have to worry about it.

View attachment 4327246

Very good description of operation. I would have you as an engineer any day.

 

[Paystar]

Well, had to get a pic of the two vintage Fords together before winter arrives.

 

[MossRoad]

This is a toy (my only firetruck). Paystar has a Detroit!!
David from jax

Jet Flow Drive!

 

[RjCorazza]

Above spam (that is no longer there) reported.

 

[MossRoad]

Above spam reported.

What spam?

Someone got it before I could even reply.

 

[Paystar]

It'll get lousy fuel mileage due to the gearing, but it's a real stump-puller. The first engine I ever drove was a 1947 LaSalle. It met its demise when the man driving it parked too close to a burning house. When the fire got too hot he couldn't get the manual PTO shifter to move to drive so he could drive the engine. It was replaced with a 1972 Ford (can't recall the model)

It's actually really good on fuel! It cost me $190 to fill the tank (was at about a quarter tank) and I drove it just over an hour away on the highway at2100 RPM because it only tops out at 60 MPH and it's still full. I thought it would be a lot worse too.
I can't remember how all the old Detroit's were on fuel back when I was a trucker. Those were my really young years so I was a company driver and I only put the fuel hose in the tank, didn't matter to me how much it was, LOL

 

[RobertN]

We live 3/8 of a mile off the dirt road 8 miles from the local volunteer fire dept. No hydrants around my area, but there is a sizeable creek about a mile down the road from me, but no permament stand pipe. And we were having trouble getting a water well for the house build. Was thinking we would have to truck in water for domestic use. Having a working fire truck for domestic water plus the benefit of using it for a fire would be a plus. Luckily we finally hit water after 5 attempts of drilling. Jon

We never drank form the tanks on our Engines. Sometimes water sat in the tank, sometimes it was drafted from creeks, rivers or ponds. It was considered Non-Potable.

If you wanted to filter and treat it, would be ok.

 

[RobertN]

A fire engine has a pump and a fire truck has ladders.

I don't see any ladders.

So engine it is I guess.

But don't both have an engine under the hood and sit on a truck chassis?

Anyhow....

Big red loud machine... life is good.

Correct to a point. An Engine has a pump. A Truck has BIG ladders as well as a lot of tools. But, a Truck can have a tank and a pump. A quint is like a fire truck in that it carries an elevating ladder and all of the equipment of a fire truck, but also carries up to 500 gallons of water and can pump water from the hydrant like a fire engine.

 

[RobertN]

“pumper truck”

Engine

Although there are some regional naming variations, like East Coaster calling a Tender a Tanker (it' a Tender )

 

[RobertN]

So this is not to debate anyone, I respect all comments, but when everyone was debating over if it's a fire truck or fire engine or apparatus....is this a regional thing?
Because like where I grew up, there were three common fire units.....the ladder truck which was the one with the big powered ladder on it. (I'm not sure if they pump water or not?)
Then there is the tanker truck. And then a pumper truck which is what I have.

Yes, for all of the standards in the Fire Services, there are still regional naming differences.

For instance, the East Coast US dept's call a Water Tender a Tanker. Here in the west if you order a Tanker, you're going to get a DC10 Jet making a drop of 9000 gallons of retardant... If you just want water you ask dispatch for Tenders.

An Engine is an Engine, not a truck or a pumper. But, there are multiple types. Most city Engines are Type-1, Wildland Engines typically Type-3.

There are variations on Trucks. Many do not have tanks or pumps, and rely on an Engine to pump water to the. Some are a "Quint", which in addition to big ladders, have a pump and a tank. There is a mix of Trucks in the departments in my area...

 

[RobertN]

But the tanker trucks around northern MI have pumps on them to pump water into the tank from lakes, rivers. Jon

All of the Tenders I have seen have pumps on them. Some have PTO pumps, some have separate diesel or gas booster pumps.

Pump is used to Draft water, or supply water or hoseline. Some have dump chutes on them to dump water in to a temporary tank.

 

[D&D]

Engine

Although there are some regional naming variations, like East Coaster calling a Tender a Tanker (it' a Tender )

Also differences between career and volunteer service. Career people are always trying to make the volunteers conform

 

[repete]

Also differences between career and volunteer service. Career people are always trying to make the volunteers conform

Goes both ways. In our county we tried to move to consistency with naming of apparatus by type such as engine, tender, ladder, Medic, aid or support vehicle.
An example would be Engine XX for what station it was assigned to. The career members made the switch to common terminology but other volunteer departments held an old four digit code that was known only within that department. We finally (after years) got about 95% compliance. Some have yet to fully embraced the system after about 12 years.
Like in about everything organization, new members easy and old members a challenge.

 

[RobertN]

Also differences between career and volunteer service. Career people are always trying to make the volunteers conform

Was one of the last volunteers in our mixed District. It was hard to find volunteers in my area that would dedicate the time for the training, as well as changes instate requirements. Most are good, changes for FF safety, but those changes and local changes, volunteers are gone at the 5 local districts I had experience with.

Funny thing is, our current Chief started as a volunteer, went paid and worked thru the ranks. He's an awesome FF/Chief.

 

[RobertN]

Goes both ways. In our county we tried to move to consistency with naming of apparatus by type such as engine, tender, ladder, Medic, aid or support vehicle.
An example would be Engine XX for what station it was assigned to. The career members made the switch to common terminology but other volunteer departments held an old four digit code that was known only within that department. We finally (after years) got about 95% compliance. Some have yet to fully embraced the system after about 12 years.
Like in about everything organization, new members easy and old members a challenge.

In my area, they moved away from four digit. All our apparatus were named/numbered for their respective Station. Everyone switched and it worked well.

Funny thing is, Cal Fire still uses 4 digit codes.

We had St-29
E-29 Engine 29, first out
E-229 Engine 229, second out/volunteer
WT-29 Water Tender 29
M-29 Medic 29
U-29 Utility 29

 

[RobertN]

Kind of funny, the Engine I was on got surplused off when new Engines were bought. Someone converted it to a taco truck