I bought a Fire Truck

/ I bought a Fire Truck #101  
I do know how to operate the PTO to engage pumps. Engage in neutral, once light comes on, shift Allison transmission to drive (but never do until I have valves open)

So lets start with the basics. How to fill.
Here are all my controls and valves.
Talk to me in dummy terms, LOL
How would I fill it?

I see most everything is numbered.
The basics:

The tank should have a fill tower in the hose bed. Pop open the cover and drop in a garden hose to fill the tank. You know it is full when it overflows.

1. Open Tank to Pump
2. Open Tank Fill. Switch into pump gear as your described
3. Raise RPMs up to increase pressure using Vernier throttle. It should twist to lock in place.
4. The 2 large gauges showing incoming pressure (or vacuum if drafting from a water source) and pump pressure. If using tank water one of them will be on 0 PSI and the other showing pump pressure.

If you have a hose connected to a discharge just open and close that valve slowly to charge the hose. Pressure will show on the gauge corresponding to that discharge.

The lower connections are for water into the pump from an external source such as a hydrant. The large 6'" opening with the cap is for either a butterfly valve or Storz valve to connect to a hydrant or supply line from another engine. Just keep it capped. The smaller ones with female swivel connections and cap plugs are for 2 1/2" hose to supply water to the pump. Drafting from a pond or portable tank requires hard suction hose. Water under pressure coming in uses soft hose.

The priming pump is used to draw a vacuum in the pump when drafting from a pond or portable tank. It should have a small oil tank behind the pump panel or on top of it. You shouldn't need it for normal operations, the tank should fill the pump so it draws water in without the need for priming. If needed, just bump the primer for a few seconds till the large gauge shows pressure.

The large handwheel on the top right labeled Relief Valve is a safety device. It allows you to set a pressure that the pump will not exceed. A centrifugal fire pump takes advantage of the pressure coming in. If the pressure on the supply line is 50 PSi and the pump is putting out 100 PSI, the discharge pressure will be 150 PSI. If the supply line pressure increases, it passes through to the discharge pressure. You set the pressure using the Vernier throttle so the handlines have the required nozzle pressure. Then you set the relief pressure slightly above that by rotating the wheel counterclockwise till the pressure drops, then slowly clockwise till you get your pressure back. I would then give it a little more clockwise rotation, say a quarter turn. That way if you get a sudden surge of pressure coming in, it doesn't transfer through to the hose lines throwing folks around. It dumps out the bottom of the,pump. If you are just checking the pump just screw it clockwise till it stops, that way you don't have to worry about it.

1762021168801.png
 
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/ I bought a Fire Truck #102  
Awesome!!!

I love an old drip-troit.

Always wanted a toy hauler like that. Old Brockway in particular.

Someday….

I just bought a fire truck, LOL Why? Well when I was a kid I started out driving many Ford dump trucks with Detroit Diesel power. 6-71, 6V53, 8V53, 8V71. I don't know ANYTHING about fire trucks.
But when I saw the chance to save a 1980 Ford L9000 from getting trashed I bid on it.
My plan was originally to pull the body and put a flatbed on it to haul my antique tractors because I just wanted a cool old Ford. But once I saw it, I don't have the heart to take it apart. So it will be preserved as is.
It has 162,000 KM (100,662 miles) and is powered by a 6V92TA Detroit Diesel with an Allison automatic.
Everything works, and it was still in service, it just now aged out to be re-certified as a front line pumper.
What a sound going down the highway!! Reminded me of why I'm deaf after a life of driving 2 stroke Detroit's and trucks with straight pipes.
 
/ I bought a Fire Truck #104  
It'll get lousy fuel mileage due to the gearing, but it's a real stump-puller. The first engine I ever drove was a 1947 LaSalle. It met its demise when the man driving it parked too close to a burning house. When the fire got too hot he couldn't get the manual PTO shifter to move to drive so he could drive the engine. It was replaced with a 1972 Ford (can't recall the model)
 
/ I bought a Fire Truck #105  
The basics:

The tank should have a fill tower in the hose bed. Pop open the cover and drop in a garden hose to fill the tank. You know it is full when it overflows.

1. Open Tank to Pump
2. Open Tank Fill. Switch into pump gear as your described
3. Raise RPMs up to increase pressure using Vernier throttle. It should twist to lock in place.
4. The 2 large gauges showing incoming pressure (or vacuum if drafting from a water source) and pump pressure. If using tank water one of them will be on 0 PSI and the other showing pump pressure.

If you have a hose connected to a discharge just open and close that valve slowly to charge the hose. Pressure will show on the gauge corresponding to that discharge.

The lower connections are for water into the pump from an external source such as a hydrant. The large 6'" opening with the cap is for either a butterfly valve or Storz valve to connect to a hydrant or supply line from another engine. Just keep it capped. The smaller ones with female swivel connections and cap plugs are for 2 1/2" hose to supply water to the pump. Drafting from a pond or portable tank requires hard suction hose. Water under pressure coming in uses soft hose.

The priming pump is used to draw a vacuum in the pump when drafting from a pond or portable tank. It should have a small oil tank behind the pump panel or on top of it. You shouldn't need it for normal operations, the tank should fill the pump so it draws water in without the need for priming. If needed, just bump the primer for a few seconds till the large gauge shows pressure.

The large handwheel on the top right labeled Relief Valve is a safety device. It allows you to set a pressure that the pump will not exceed. A centrifugal fire pump takes advantage of the pressure coming in. If the pressure on the supply line is 50 PSi and the pump is putting out 100 PSI, the discharge pressure will be 150 PSI. If the supply line pressure increases, it passes through to the discharge pressure. You set the pressure using the Vernier throttle so the handlines have the required nozzle pressure. Then you set the relief pressure slightly above that by rotating the wheel counterclockwise till the pressure drops, then slowly clockwise till you get your pressure back. I would then give it a little more clockwise rotation, say a quarter turn. That way if you get a sudden surge of pressure coming in, it doesn't transfer through to the hose lines throwing folks around. It dumps out the bottom of the,pump. If you are just checking the pump just screw it clockwise till it stops, that way you don't have to worry about it.

View attachment 4327246
Very good description of operation. I would have you as an engineer any day. :)
 
/ I bought a Fire Truck #108  
Above spam (that is no longer there) reported.
 
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/ I bought a Fire Truck
  • Thread Starter
#110  
It'll get lousy fuel mileage due to the gearing, but it's a real stump-puller. The first engine I ever drove was a 1947 LaSalle. It met its demise when the man driving it parked too close to a burning house. When the fire got too hot he couldn't get the manual PTO shifter to move to drive so he could drive the engine. It was replaced with a 1972 Ford (can't recall the model)
It's actually really good on fuel! It cost me $190 to fill the tank (was at about a quarter tank) and I drove it just over an hour away on the highway at2100 RPM because it only tops out at 60 MPH and it's still full. I thought it would be a lot worse too.
I can't remember how all the old Detroit's were on fuel back when I was a trucker. Those were my really young years so I was a company driver and I only put the fuel hose in the tank, didn't matter to me how much it was, LOL
 

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