Dead battery

[Hay Dude]

If you're going to replace your batteries every 3-4 years, then what does it matter what one you buy. Put the cheapest wally world garbage battery in it and it'll likely last 3 years. Crowing about how great some battery is, and then changing it out anyway in "3-4 years"...

And 40 below zero will flat out kill a brand new, "fully charged" p.o.s. Interstate wet cell battery. Been there, done that, probably still have the receipt somewhere. Hell, 30 below killed mine. And that was the very first time our temps dropped to -30F that winter, and it was the first winter with my new tractor. This is all real world ambient temperatures, not fake "wind chill" b.s. .

Ridiculous.

The Optima in my wife's 4runner finally gave up this year, after 13 years in service. Only the last 3 years has it been in a heated garage at night. The Optima in my tractor has been in service since December of '17, so 6 1/2 years, so far. It's never seen the inside of a heated garage in winter (and only twice ever, both times while getting scheduled service). The Optima in my truck is only 2 (?) years old now. The Interstate AGM I tried in it didn't make 5 years.

None of these batteries are ever plugged in to a tender, a charger, or any heat source like a battery blanket, etc. And only the wife's car sees the inside of a heated garage (now). My truck sits outside all year, and my tractor sits in an unheated shed all year.

Agree.
Never had luck with Interstate or Napa, either. Always toast within 4 years. I killed a set of Napas in 1-2 years.
I am more in the camp of just replacing batteries every 4 years and trying to save money by eating healthy, exercising and working a few extra minutes each day than crying about a battery that only lasts 5 years.

Most truckers & large AG run Dekas in my area. I have a set of Korean made batteries in my Massey Ferguson that I was skeptical about, but they have been fine for over 5 years. I came to find out they make Caterpillars batteries.

 

[ultrarunner]

Interstate was tops in the 70’s and 80’s when we sold them… Sears had some good offerings too.

My longest lasting ever is the Deka in the 2005 bx23 at 16+ years stored inside.

Next was the AC Delco green eye that was OEM in the 2001 Corolla at 13+

My service truck 5-6 years tops.

Mild California climate

 

[shooterdon]

I put a cheap Wally World battery in the riding mower in 2017. Kept it on a Battery Tender when not in use. Sold the rider two years ago to my neighbor. Battery still works.

Seven years on a $21 battery.

 

[1930]

I’m trying it now, turns out I had a charger with the 200 amp setting.
Buried and didn’t know I had it.
The battery I’m trying it in was seemingly dry when I took the caps off.
I filled it to just below the proper level and hooked up charger.
The water immediately started bubbling and coming out over the top.
I wont fill the next one as much.
My cables are getting warm, I’ve turned it down to the 40 amp setting, the battery is still bubbling/boiling but I feel more comfortable.
Big numbers difference between 40 amp and 200 amp but maybe if it’s still boiling at 40 amp it means it’s still working?
Anyway I’d rather do it a few more times at 40 amp and not burn up anything if at all possible.
I started out at a 12.68 reading on my multi meter before I started, not sure why at over 12 volts it wouldn’t even hardly make the lights come on for my Kubota?
Anyway will keep you posted

 

[DarkBlack]

I’m trying it now, turns out I had a charger with the 200 amp setting.

You’re not putting current into your battery at a 200 amp rate. Your charger probably has a 200 A on it for advertising peak current when using it to start an engine. Most likely your charger is rated 10 amps and is outputting less than that when charging your battery, especially since you measured 12.68 volts

 

[1930]

Charger

 

[DarkBlack]

Charger

200 amps is what could theoretically flow into a starter motor with almost a short circuit resistance. 14-15 charger volts on a 12 volt battery is only a potential 2-3 volt differential. It won’t flow 200 amps. Trust me

 

[1930]

200 amps is what could theoretically flow into a starter motor with almost a short circuit resistance. 14-15 charger volts on a 12 volt battery is only a potential 2-3 volt differential. It won’t flow 200 amps. Trust me

I understand

 

[NHBX]

My longest lasting ever is the Deka in the 2005 bx23 at 16+ years stored inside

2006 bx24 DEKA got 17 yrs unheated shed.
The mild NH climate! LOL

 

[1930]

Complete waste of my time, might try it on a second battery but at this point I have better things to do.

 

[Lena]

My Kubota’s only a couple/few years old and already a dead battery, by chance my ranger battery is on it’s last leg, my riding lawnmower battery is kaput and I have a stack of other dead batteries.
This guy

claims that this charger will fix any and all dead and depleted batteries and he has over 6000 comments supporting his statement.
( didn’t read all 6000 but didn’t see anything contradictory)
Charger is over 300 bucks…….. I don’t believe that 6000 viewers of his video has a 300 plus dollar charger so what do you guys think?

saw an article once where a guy said he used a welder to revive a dead battery. you can try all kinds of things . I once had a battery blow up while jump starting a tractor. acid everywhere. i play it safe now. Dead battery that won't charge with a chargerGets replaced.

 

[DieselBound]

Remember, one can get a battery to read 12v(+) but that don't mean it's good. The real test is a load test. Have run across batteries that would have good voltage but no "strength" (amps) for starting equipment.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

I was taught to NEVER add acid to a battery once the initial filling was completed. Probably the danger from hydrogen gas is the reason--a very good reason. Batteries are expensive, but a new shop and a stay in the hospital are "expensiver."

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I’m trying it now, turns out I had a charger with the 200 amp setting.
Buried and didn’t know I had it.

Anyway I’d rather do it a few more times at 40 amp and not burn up anything if at all possible.

From what I understand, after having read it and from experience, is that a low charge (1-2 A) over a longer period is the best way to try to recover a "dead" battery. Once/if the battery shows signs of taking a charge the amps can be upped.

With smart chargers/maintainers it's often possible to trick them into working by connecting a good battery to the "dead" one for maybe half an hour, or until the smart charger will recognize the "dead" one.

Either way, quality maintainers definitely help batteries live, as do good solar chargers, and anything with desulfation really helps.

Having about 80 batteries to tend to, I have learned a bit about what works and what doesn't. A disconnect on the negative side, for example, does help.

 

[Williy]

I purchased this from wally world and it lets me know if
my battery is good or need a shovel:

willy

 

[newbury]

To me and dead battery is a dead battery, IF is does not come back to life in a 12 hour charge from old school 6 amp charger, it really dead....

Didn't see it emphasized -
I've read that most of the recent chargers sold are "smart" chargers. They require some minimum charge.
If a battery WON'T kick off a modern charger (usually has "smart" features I try my old (pre2000) Schumacher, that sometimes gets a little juice into it and it then will take a charge. But the battery is on it's last legs at that point.