Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

[kozak]

Hi all,

When I purchased my Tractor, I had Dealership install a pair of remotes. The remotes are plumbed to some sort of valve that is controlled by a lever that was added.

From all the threads I have reviewed on this topic, it would seem all I have to do is replace the mechanical top link with a hydraulic cylinder from CCM & then just connect the ports via two hoses to the pair of remotes & I'm done. Is it really that simple since I already have the remotes ??

Thanks For Any Input,


Vic

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Vic, yes it is that simple. Measure your existing top link to get your shortest and longest lengths. As long as you are happy with those lengths, then get the closest top link that will match. If you need it to be shorter or longer for some of your implements, then you may need to take that into consideration when purchasing your top link.

Good luck

 

[Bird]

Yep, like Brian said, it's really that simple.

 

[jinman]

Vic, you will not only need to know the proper length of the toplink, but also the size of hoses and length. Mark at CCM will make hoses for you and include the proper sized adapters to go to your 1/2" QDs (if you order the hose kit--recommended). I would suggest 1/4" hoses at 36" long. That way you can make a stress relief loop and attach the hoses to your HTL. Be sure and run the 3PH up and down to make sure everything clears. Your tractor has a hanger for the toplink when it is not in use. Make sure this hanger will not snag your HTL hoses. I just push mine out of the way to the left. When I disconnect the HTL and don't want it hanging down, I pull the hanger back out and hook the hoses to hold it up out of the way.

Here is a picture of my connections.

Oh yes. . .the other thing you have to decide is which way to attach the hydraulic hoses. Do you want the HTL to extend when you move the remote lever toward the rear of the tractor and retract when you push it forward? Swap your hoses in the remote QDs until you get it working the way you are most comfortable with.

 

[anojones]

I just added a ccm toplink and ordered the hoses from them as well. The only issue I had was leaking hydraulic fluid at the hose/toplink connection. I tried a number of liquid sealants and eventually carefully used teflon tape which stopped the leak. In general, avoiding teflon tape in a hydraulic system is best, you don't want bits of tape getting into the system so you must be careful. Otherwise, since you all ready have remotes, install is simple. Be careful that it doesn't bind or hit anything when you install it- I removed the old top link hanger and some have had to remove the PTO saftey cover as well.

 

[kozak]

MOST Excellent.....thanks for the great info. I was always wondering what that hanger was for

Jinman, do you really think I need 36" hoses given the proximity of my remotes to the top link ??

Vic

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have a few questions for you guys. Those of you that have CCM top links, would it be better to have the DPOCV at one end vs the other end? So does it work out to have it like in Jim's picture, or would it be better to have it out closer to the ram? I see most top links have the outlets straight up, when I made my "TnT" I put the fittings to the side, and that has worked well for me. One last thing, I have adapted my stock top link hangers to hold my hydraulic top links, has anybody else done the same?

Thanks for any responses, but not really any big deal, just wondering.

 

[Charlesaf3]

I had CCM do mine with the dpocv on the side - b3030 is really tight, and top hits into the back of the sheet metal

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I had CCM do mine with the dpocv on the side - b3030 is really tight, and top hits into the back of the sheet metal

I was thinking that on the smaller tractors it would be better on the side.
Charles, did you ever get your side link for the 3030?

 

[jinman]

MOST Excellent.....thanks for the great info. I was always wondering what that hanger was for

Jinman, do you really think I need 36" hoses given the proximity of my remotes to the top link ??

Vic

Vic, if you can find a 1/2" diameter rope, take a 36" piece and make a loop. You need the loop for the hoses minimum bend radius. Place the looped hose in the approximate position of the new toplink and see what you think. I think 36" is the perfect size for the least stress on the hose. Also, I think you will find that you have plenty of room for your hoses to come out the top of the DPOCV. If you put it to the side, it may interfere with additional QDs you could add later. Up is best in my opinion. I'll try to find picture that demonstrates this tomorrow.

 

[kennyd]

Vic, if you can find a 1/2" diameter rope, take a 36" piece and make a loop. You need the loop for the hoses minimum bend radius. Place the looped hose in the approximate position of the new toplink and see what you think. I think 36" is the perfect size for the least stress on the hose. Also, I think you will find that you have plenty of room for your hoses to come out the top of the DPOCV. If you put it to the side, it may interfere with additional QDs you could add later. Up is best in my opinion. I'll try to find picture that demonstrates this tomorrow.

An old piece of garden hose will work better than rope. I agree that the 36" length is probably good.

 

[jinman]

An old piece of garden hose will work better than rope. I agree that the 36" length is probably good.

Yessir! That's a fact.

I found the photo I was looking for. It shows a much better view of the area around the remotes. Our remotes are located very close to the toplink adapter on the tractor and a side-mounted DPOCV would stick out in the way of the hose attachments on the right side. I suppose you could rotate it to the left side, but I think the arrangement in the photo is fine and assures the hoses are up and away from most obstructions. The rigid hydraulic tubing also makes a good place to loop the HTL hanger to hold it up when not needed.

 

[brandoro]

Jinman, what is that clamp looking thing on your top link ram? Is it a gage so you can return to a certain setting or does it have another purpose??

 

[geblackwell]

ALso thanks to Jinman's advice an inline restrictor was necessary for mine.

 

[jinman]

Jinman, what is that clamp looking thing on your top link ram? Is it a gage so you can return to a certain setting or does it have another purpose??

Yes, it used to have a sliding graduated gage on the side, but I never used it. It took a lot of abuse one time while I was backing into the brush with my rotary cutter. I removed the rod, but never removed the clamp. It just slides up and down the ram. I've thought dozens of times that I should remove it, but I never think of it when I have an allen wrench set handy.

GEBlackwell: Can you see two restrictors in my last photo? They are in the top hose on the top QD on both sides of the HTL. They take up very little space, but give you a lot of control.

 

[kozak]

kennyd & jinman,

Thanks....I'll go with your recommendation of 36" hoses.

Jinman, the photo you attached, looks like you have adapters that get connected into the quick attach remotes. How do I determine what size my QA remote connections are. I think you indicated 1/2" in an earlier post. I checked the ID of the outlet port of the remotes & it looks like 7/8". Is that what size the port should be for a 1/2" QA connection ??

Thanks,

Vic

 

[mytc45da]

jinman did you get the line restrictors from CCM? I just added an HTL to my TC45DA with one, soon to be 3 rear remotes, and definately need to slow the cylinder travel down.

 

[J_J]

kennyd & jinman,

Thanks....I'll go with your recommendation of 36" hoses.

Jinman, the photo you attached, looks like you have adapters that get connected into the quick attach remotes. How do I determine what size my QA remote connections are. I think you indicated 1/2" in an earlier post. I checked the ID of the outlet port of the remotes & it looks like 7/8". Is that what size the port should be for a 1/2" QA connection ??

Thanks,

Vic

Instead of using 1/2 hose, why not use 1/4 hose and that will slow down the GPM to the cyl, and if that is not slow enough, there are fittings that have an R in the part number that means restricted. The 1/4 hose and QD's will cost less, and do the same job.

 

[jinman]

Jinman, the photo you attached, looks like you have adapters that get connected into the quick attach remotes. How do I determine what size my QA remote connections are. I think you indicated 1/2" in an earlier post. I checked the ID of the outlet port of the remotes & it looks like 7/8". Is that what size the port should be for a 1/2" QA connection ??

Vic, 1/2" is the inside diameter of the connection or the ID inside a hose. When you measured the 1/2" QD, you measured the opening of the female adapter which equals the OD of the male adapter that will be attached to the hose.

JJ: The QD adapters (female) that come on New Hollands remote kit are 1/2" adapters. Therefore, you have to use a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter to get the 1/4" hose connected to the 1/2" QD. We have been suggesting 1/4" hose as you have. It's just that the tractor QD connectors will be 1/2".

Mytc45da: I got my restrictors from my NH dealer. He had them in a self-service parts bins with other hydraulic hose and plumbing components. It was not obvious what they were without knowing what you are looking for. I'd ask my tractor dealer or go to a hydraulic shop in your area. Mine were less than $5 each and have a 0.030" opening. They are especially useful for the HTL, tilt cylinder, and FEL grapple circuit.

 

[J_J]

Understood. If you want real precision, in lowering the 3pt implements, a needle valve in the circuit will let you go from full flow of the hose, to a gradual drop down. You set it for what ever function you are using. The washer restricters will work, but you have to figure out which one you need. Some of the fittings have with built in restricters.