Container Weld Shop build -

[Oldpath05]

Are you sure these steel tube pyramids are cheaper than cement? cant be quicker. Usually people on the east coast will get some soner tubes at the blue bucket store or make some cement forms out of wood then just fill with cement rocks and rebar, cement mixer optional.

 

[BukitCase]

Terry, they would't be wrong; my wife says I have HAIR like a god(dang dog)

"Are you sure these steel tube pyramids are cheaper than cement?"

Not cheaper, just less painful under the circumstances - first off, to support at least 6 tons per corner on my soil, it'll take 6 square feet per corner - that'd be almost a 3' diameter sonotube - second, without doing more excavating than my stuff is up to at the moment, each of the 6 support points is a DIFFERENT HEIGHT from the ground, so that'd make cutting sonotubes more interesting; Then there's the fact that I HATE doing concrete, period - and the ONE contractor that even bothered to call me back won't even LOOK at a job that's less than $5 grand.

Add to that the likelihood that I'll need to get the containers IN PLACE before the supports go in (or else the truck would have to run one tire over an 8" block of concrete while trying to place the containers with any accuracy...

If I were to use concrete, I wouldn't want less than 6" thick at any corner - that'd make the doors 3" higher than they'll be now, which would make for longer ramps to get heavy things in/out -

Given all the push/pull/drag/lift stuff I have available, the way I'm going actually seems the LEAST PAINFUL of 'em all, PLUS - if/when I'm able to afford the REST of this pipe dream, those PORTABLE supports can come out without a jackhammer if I decide to pour the big slab to INCLUDE where the containers sit - my container guy will move 'em both for a couple hundred $, so (when/if the time comes) I'm not ruling out just moving 'em aside, pouring the whole 48x60 slab and moving 'em back. (by then, I SHOULD have the tilt hydraulics on the Gannon scraper )

'Sides, it's a LOT more fun for me to weld stuff I can move WITH a crane or a loader instead of using my back :thumbsup:

That's my story; it might only make sense in MY world, but that's the one I'm LIVIN' in

Here's the pyramid parts, ready to weld and in the order they'll go - the front set will support the door ends of the containers - plus each stack will sit on (and be tacked to) a 27"x32" piece of 3/4" plate, which will give me the 6 tons of support at each corner I need (calculated for my soil type)


Oh, and I don't need yellowjackets to protect me from the aliens - they ARE the evil aliens ...Steve

 

[Big Barn]

Dang. I was getting ready to float this section of sono tube down to you but it’s only 24”D.

... left over from a project in the late 70’s. (No one can accuse ME of being a hoarder)

 

[BukitCase]

Jeez Terry; too bad that tube isn't 3' diameter, I could trade ya for the Craftsman commercial 12" table saw I bought in 1973 that's been moved twice and STILL hasn't been out of its original box (when I finally got a little more room I found a REAL Powermatic PM66 cabinet saw for not too much, so put THAT where the Craftsman woulda gone - the Craftsman's still (AFAIK) in its box in the back corner of the garage - at least that's where I THINK I put it when we moved here in 1978 :ashamed:

"Hoarder"? No way, I just believe in having "adequate inventory" - :laughing:

Got most of the welds done on one of the MIDDLE pyramids so far, I capped the joints between the 3 smaller tubes not for strength, but I don't want standing water if/when some rain gets blown in there - - Still using my old standby, .035" L56 wire -

it should be cool in a bit, then I'll grind those top welds down flush. Think I'll do all 6 of the pyramids before I cut/weld the 1/4 plate over all the holes.
Didn't get much (if any) movement with everything hard clamped to the 1" thick table; doubt if I'll EVER want a weld table any thinner than that... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

(''Sides, it's a LOT more fun for me to weld stuff I can move WITH a crane or a loader instead of using my back")<<<<<<<Must of suffered to many years from the addictive smell of welding smoke, turned into a welding smoke addict and your favorite flavor must be 70s blended slightly with the sweet aroma of 75/25, but if you feel the need for a more full robust flavor you can get from more smoke you can try some 7014 and or 7024 jet rod for an even more smoother faster flat rate need for speed. Careful with Big Barn I heard he's a hoarder.

Got my Tweco connectors today and what a coincident I got the right ones, I'll get them on this weekend, be good to have a little more reach around the shop.

 

[BukitCase]

Good call on the 7014, pretty sure I got quite a bit of that - this heavy walled tube has quite a curve on the corners, makes a pretty deep canyon to fill up. I bet one pass of 7014 and I could just run a couple light stringers with wire down the sides of the bead and be pretty close to flat :thumbsup:

Glad you got the right connectors, you're definitely gonna like havin' a longer leash. The way I set my leads up to mix-n-match, I can do anything from a 10' stinger and 90' of ground, to 50/50, to 90' of stinger (or any multiple of about 20' and a 10' ground. If I need more than that, I can move the welder itself - I built 3 different 240 volt extension cords, a 10', 25' and 85'. If I get any weaker I'll need a trailer to move that 85' one, might whip up a "hand-truckable" rack for one of the big wire spools I been maintaining in my "adequate inventory" stash (NOT a hoarder :ashamed and just keep that long/fat cord on that...

Well, done fer the night; dunno how much I'll get done this next week, couple days near 100, several in the 90's - 'nuther reason to break out the stick welder, wouldn't hafta shut off the 20" fan to weld ...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

Anything going on this week, must still be to hot out there? We've had a couple hot days in the 90s here but also had some nice days 70s and 80s with low humidity, but not today or yesterday, but tomorrow and this coming weekend is sounding good again. I know when it's not much fun to work in my shop when I have to keep the fan on and the doors closed so's not let the heat in, and yes the wind is your friend when welding with stick......................

 

[Big Barn]

My guess is Steve has got the project DONE and is too embarrassed to admit that the job wasn't nearly as time consuming and complicated as he first envisioned.

Either that or his extended naps started interfering with his crossword puzzle or crime show time.....

 

[BukitCase]

"must still be to hot out there?"

Last 3 days were 97,98,91 (today) - forecast is mid to upper 80's next 3, then high 90's again, 99 one of 'em - been gettin' an early start most days (I'm retired, so fer me that's about 9am ) - then it gets too hot and the sweat gets my helmet fogged up about 12-1pm.

"his extended naps started interfering with his crossword puzzle or crime show time" - That's the one Terry, you should KNOW my projects are almost ALWAYS more complicated than they need to be :laughing:

So far I got about 70% of the tubes welded up (not including the "critter keeper-outers") - one of the "pyramids" is just two of the 3x8x 12" long tubes stacked; it seemed to me like it might be a little "squishy" with no smaller sized tubes bridging 'em, so I took a couple 4" cutoffs of the 2.5" tube, beveled one end a bit, ground a little groove down the middle (to clear the seam welds), and pressed 'em into the centers of those two 3x8 tubes with the hydraulic press - that should solve that "squishy center" thang :thumbsup:

Haven't been bothering with pics much, I'll try to get a few manana before I start - I actually fired up that Everlast Tig/stick welder for the first time since I bought it a couple YEARS ago (lightning quick compared to some table saws ) -

I'd read the manual a couple times when I first got it, and found out my short-term memory's still reasonably OK; I actually was able to program it for a couple stick settings the first time I tried - it's this one

Power i-TIG 2T - TIG Welders | Everlast Generators

BTW, my "green machine" was a star before I ever got it; Mark used it for 3 utube vids, so I got a better deal on a Proven machine - works fer me -

Everlast Power i-TIG 2t Part 1: Introduction to the 2 amp DC Pulse Inverter Welder - YouTube

Everlast Power i-TIG 2t Part 2: TIG Welding Demonstration - YouTube

Everlast Power i TIG 2 Part 3: Stick Welding Demonstration - YouTube

Haven't dug around to see if I still have any 7014 left tho, so I just kept using the mm252 so far.

Need these supports DONE so I can get those 2 Hi-cubes moved and start transferring stuff from the "almost was" weld shop container into the "hopefully soon gonna be" one, so I can move more "not bad enough to throw away" household stuff into one of the standard height 40's before "mrs. Bukit" decides I've been spoofin' her about doin' HER part of this shuffle

Better hit the sack, alarm's goin' off in about 7 hours... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

OK, as promised (or at least insinuated )

Just in case anybody thought I just grabbed a link and LIED about it :laughing:
I got that cart @ Amazon, turns out it was basically IDENTICAL to the HF cheapie, but with the added BONE-US of getting to pay about $15 MORE (yay) - crappy little 6" wheels, crappy little no-lock casters; both got replaced - 10" solid rubber wheels, 4" (sorta) locking casters. the hole for the rear axle seems to be made of tungsten carbide, wiped out 2 drill bits enlarging it to 5/8" - but it's a LOT smoother even on concrete...

Progress - (note the pressed-in 2.5" tube supports in the one that will NOT have cross-tubes to stiffen it)
- That last one weighs right at 99 pounds; That and the other two pyramids that have TWO stacked 3x8 tubes, will sit on one of these - - got 3 of 'em off CL last year for $60, finally found a use for 'em besides tryin' to get 'em NOT to drag the ground on my itty bitty 45 horse tractors

Here's the LAST stack of "glu-ables", they're now actually "glued" except for the second row of 2.5" tubes - - After this I'll do some touch-ups on welds, grind the holes flat where necessary, cut some 1/4 plate, "de-critter-ize", etc...

Last one - here's my short(ish) term survival setup, actually makes it semi-comfy to be in those dark reddish brown containers clear to the back end when the sun's out - - that roll-around rack was a GIFT from a buddy - frame is 2" .120 wall tube, 3/4" black iron pipes are 12" long, came from a parts house "purge" where a friend of his worked - that 3' fan sits on the top row with just over 1 INCH of clearance to the ceiling :thumbsup: - just did that this morning, REALLY helps the two smaller fans get the heat out.

Got a line on some "greenhouse kits" that include a shutter fan, louver inlets and controller - gonna order ONE of 'em to start, if it (and my skills) are up to the job I'll get 3 MORE for the other containers - then (hopefully) no more "morning and evening rounds" opening up, fans on, then reverse at night... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

I kinda like the individual hydraulic lower link mod and use the box blade to level idea.

Guess it’s too late now , huh.

Pretty sad when I have to quote myself but...

Did you consider a "quickie"? No no settle down, I was thinking a lift arm made of 2" square and matching receiver tube. (You must have 1/2 the inventory for the US west coast). You already have the mag drill set up for precision square tube hole drilling. Maybe a manually adjustable arm? I would imagine 2 or 3 (or 5) holes would provide adequate manual adjustment(s) to get this job done.

 

[BukitCase]

Terry, for the lack of info I provided the telescoping tube thang might work; now (emulating Paul Harvey) here's the "REST of the story" -

Both the Allis 160 and the Long460 already HAVE side tilt adjustments, (typical crank handle and acme screw or worm gear) but they're old and abused, and I can just BARELY get 'em to turn without a cheater bar, even WITHOUT an implement on the hitch - and even THAT requires that I dismount the tractor and do it from the ground :thumbdown:

Add to that a Gannon box blade that weighs roughly 1100 pounds - now the only thing that works is to just BARELY take the weight off the hitch by setting the blade lightly on the ground, cranking a little, lower/raise it a bit so I can tilt a little more, then get back on the tractor, oops- too much/not enough; try again Also, the Gannon needs the ripper cylinder either rebuilt or replaced for full functionality (meaning, when my clay soil is NOT in "brick mode")

I finally found enough Allis weights so THAT tractor usually keeps its front wheels on the ground when I raise the box with a load in it, so that's the tractor it gets used on. The Long is made in Bratislavia or some such, good luck finding the right weights for it; plus I'll still have to fab a weight rack that WILL fit it (and the 100 lb. New Holland wieghts I found at the local tractor graveyard) - the GOOD news on the Long is that for some unknown reason, there are 4 tapped holes where front weights go, and they're actually 5/8" fine thread - I already have the bolts for that, end of progress report

One more - before I can get top, tilt AND ripper control I almost HAVE to do the extra remotes mod on the Allis (not a QUICKIE either); right now all I have on BOTH tractors is a single remote; I've added a 2-way manual diverter to each, so I could do top/tilt - but again, the clay is in definite "brick mode" -

My favorite best-bud cat reached her expiration date about a month ago , I tried the 1-man 8" post hole auger for her final resting place - got almost an INCH in about 20 minutes, sharpened the auger cutting tip/edge and got mayby 2 MORE inches in 1/2 hour; finally fired up the hoe. It weighs about 12,000 lbs, the 2' bucket has basically brand new teeth on it, and the first couple feet had me resting the teeth on the ground with the only other contact being the loader bucket, and wiggling the hoe bucket back and forth - FINALLY got down to where it was more like SOFT brick...

Bottom line - even my involved pyramid scheme is probably twice as quick as waiting til I get everything done that would let me "just do it"...

The up side of having older tractors is no payments on $30k pieces of gear ('specially if you're not making money on it) - the DOWN side - you pay SOME of those payments on equipment to get/keep 'em running and useful (not to mention ZERO BOREDOM in the winter months, assuming you have a survivable work area )

The GOOD news - now that I HAVE a (sorta) survivable work area, I'm pretty sure that you could pick any moment during the 8-9 months of winter and you'd find at least ONE piece of gear in that area being cut/maimed/mutilated/welded/machined; probably MORE than one on average

I probably left out a couple really good excuses, but not fer lack of TRYIN' :laughing: ...Steve

 

[Big Barn]

I thought FOR SURE my idea would work. I've never thought of you to be the "lack of info" type.

 

[BukitCase]

In my defense, that wuz probly just one of those EXTREMELY RARE moments when I tried not to blather uncontrollably - sorry, it won't happen again (where's that "evil Satan grin" emoji when ya really NEED it??!?) ... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Well, looks like manana's gonna be "critter cap" day, I'll cut 1/4" plate to cover all the holes in both ends of all the tubes (perfect job for the PM45 and a straight edge) - Found some 40-year old 1/8" 7014 rod; it's been about 10 years since I used stick for ANYTHING (5/32" 7018 modding my Gannon box so it'd work with the quick hitch) - so I was a bit leary of trying it without some "re-remembering", but - - Those welds in the last 3 pics were all done with OLD 7014 rod and this -

All the more impressive to me considering 40 year old rod, 10 years since I'd even TOUCHED a stick machine :thumbsup: - I gave it a little bit of hot start (.8 seconds @ +14%) and a little bit of "arc force", AKA "dig" ? (I think 10%) - and it just laid down easy like I re-remember NEW 7014 used to do 40 years ago

For more, see my post #409 on 7/18/18 for links...

For some stuff, I can see a LOT more stick welds in my future (did I mention this little turkey weighs a whopping 18 pounds? Or, that for stick welds that and some leads is all you need? Or that I'd forgotten how nice it can be to have a FAN on you without getting bird crap welds??!?

OK, can't wait for Terry and Oldpath havin' a CONTEST to see if my skin's REALLY as thick as I claimed about 400+ posts ago - GO fer it guise... ...Steve

Oh, one OTHER thing I got to "re-remember" - it's better if you do NOT pinch off the end cone of 7014 (like I do with 7018) before a re-start (the ONLY time I stuck a rod with this little wonder)

 

[BukitCase]

Oh, almost forgot - the ONLY complaint I have with the "little green monster" - same as with ALL new welding machines; the LEADS are too dang short (like, barely 10 feet each) - I thought I'd already SOLVED that one when I bought it, but turns out all I did was BUY a couple feet of lead and enough connectors to make 2 ADAPTERS for the stick part - so it probably won't be long til I dig out that stuff and make it so my 100 feet of stick weld leads can work on THIS machine too... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

73 year old grampa renews SMAW relationship after 10 year hiatus with 40 year old rods.

Your welds look better than mine, so I got nuthin'.

 

[Oldpath05]

So far I got about 70% of the tubes welded up (not including the "critter keeper-outers") - one of the "pyramids" is just two of the 3x8x 12" long tubes stacked; it seemed to me like it might be a little "squishy" with no smaller sized tubes bridging 'em, so I took a couple 4" cutoffs of the 2.5" tube, beveled one end a bit, ground a little groove down the middle (to clear the seam welds), and pressed 'em into the centers of those two 3x8 tubes with the hydraulic press - that should solve that "squishy center" thang :thumbsup:

Haven't been bothering with pics much, I'll try to get a few manana before I start

Power i-TIG 2T - TIG Welders | Everlast Generators
. Steve

Now that I got this quote sniped an picked a part, IF IF IF there ever was a time to take a picture, so am I to understand that you pressed a smaller square tube into another square that it just barely fit? I dont understand, where's that picture? I tried that and I couldn't do it without my biggest sledge hammer, I just ended up getting one piece stuck inside another part way in, had to go with a thinner walled outside piece.

I checked the specs on that Everlast welder, says 160 welding amps on stick, that's a little on the low side. barely enough for 5/32 if that. Now if memory serves, years ago according to my accurate welding speed measurements, one Mississippi two Mississippi or was it one Maniac two..........anywho I figured it would take a 5/32 7014 rod to weld faster than .030 70s and a 3/16 7014 rod to weld faster than .035 70s, with the 5/32 I'd have my Century AC DC 250 amp set around 150-170-ish welding amps, 3/16 I'd set it about 230-240-ish amps, I thought 7014 welded slightly better on AC then DC reverse, maybe because it's not a penetrating. rod

 

[BukitCase]

Terry, yer not really TRYIN' very hard today; feelin' OK??!?

OP, "so am I to understand that you pressed a smaller square tube into another square that it just barely fit? I dont understand. I tried that and I couldn't do it without my biggest sledge hammer,"

One of these (minus the "U" bracket jig) - - In my case, it's a 20 ton press - the tubing in question is 3" wide, - 1/2" for 2 quarter-inch walls leaves 2-1/2" for the 2-1/2" tubing that I pushed inside - as you probably found out, the electrically welded SEAM gets in your way. My need was just to beef up the wide tubes so they wouldn't crush, so I used a zip disk and did a small "furrow" down the side of the small tube (it's still1/4" wall, so no biggie) - then I ground a short bevel across the end of the small tube on 2 sides so it'd START a little easier, I lined up my "furrow" with the weld seam on the bigger tube, couple taps with a small (32 oz) hammer, set the whole thing on the press, used that "Tee" pusher in the pic, and held the air on the air/hydraulic jack til it looked halfway there...

No welding necessary, there's enough tension to keep it from moving since any force is only gonna be trying to squeeze things closer together, NOT push the small tube back out sideways...

On the big tube with the Tee bar welded inside - contrary to Terry's assertion that I have half the west coast's supply of steel :laughing:, I actually ran OUT of the 2.5" heavy wall tube, so took 11" long pieces of 1/2" FB and 3/8" FB and stitched 'em together with "greenie" for some center support. All the stacks with the 2.5" tubes running CROSSWAYS shouldn't NEED internal support 'cause the 3 cross tubes are supported by (and bridge between) the vertical walls of the big tubes. (I hope )

And yeah, it woulda been nice if the STICK side of "greenie" was 200 amps too, but I mainly bought it for the TIG - didja watch Mark's 3 vids? I doubt I'm ever gonna need to weld with less than 3 amps - I got a bunch of 5/32 7018, I'll probly run the stick up to 160 and see what it does - even at full output it still has a 35% duty cycle, which should mean I can weld 3-1/2 minutes out of ten. 'Nuff to run a stick or two before running the needle gun/wire brush while "greenie" catches its breath, etc...

As nice as these inverters run stick, I might add one of the Powerarc 300's later on; but there's a few other toys higher on the drool chart than that... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

I got all 20 of the 1/4" cap pieces cut today, and 8 of 'em de-glazed, beveled and ready to weld on - my plasma cuts 1/4" steel at 60 IPM, which makes it real handy to just lay a ruler along the back edge of the 1" angle I use for a guide - ever since my military time I can count seconds accurate within about 1 second per minute, so I just hold the torch against the guide and move it past the inch marks at one per second - works pretty good - - The ones standing up against the pyramids are the finished ones...

We had a couple cooler days (low 80's) which was nice; but the next week (starting tomorrow) is supposed to be mid to upper 90's - it'll get too warm for playin' with HOT things by around 11am, so I'll probably start fabbing 2 templates for cutting 16-1/2" square and 24-1/2" square holes in container walls - the first of 4 of these
Greenhouse Ventilation Package - Greenhouse Exhaust Fans | Greenhouse Megastore

will be here Monday (I'm getting the 1620 packages; they'll exchange the air in a 40' container once every two minutes) - I'm gettin' tired of making rounds morning (open containers, turn on fans) and nite (turn OFF fans, close containers) - some of the things stored in 'em do NOT like 130-140 degree temps, so the 16" exhaust fan will go on the leeward side opposite the door ends, and the 24" motorized louvers will go on the leeward side just inside the doors. The included controller can then get set to maybe 90 degrees, so I can goof off another hour before I gotta pretend I'm doin' sumthin USEFUL

The templates (which I can make in the wood shop (already HAS a 24" gable exhaust fan and 2 other fans, yay) will let me cut the holes with the plasma from INSIDE, MUCH less of a PITA than tryin' to do it with a zip disk :thumbsup: - I checked and all 4 containers have exactly the same corrugation spacing (even tho they're two different manufacturers), so I'll only need to make one of each size template (yay) to do all 4 containers -

Time to hang it up for the night, need to get going fairly early to beat the heat... Steve