Cold cut saw

[handirifle]

I meant for the hold down to be mounted to the cold cut saw, not separately. Would be kinda hard to mount a vice on one.

 

[downsizingnow48]

For handirifle, here are a couple hold down options to consider. I use both on my home made vertical bandsaw. The vertical clamp works best on repetitive cuts in long material. The milling machine style hold-downs work best on odd size and angled pieces. Both work fine.

 

[Rustyiron]

I dug my saw out of the snow and pulled the motor yesterday, the flash makes a pic of the nameplate a big white flash so I copied the info. There is also a worm gear & housing that looks very integral to this motor. Like I said, I don't know much about motors but I'm guessing that I won't be able to replace it with another motor, and rewinding might be the only way out. (575v motor).

Sorry for the slight hijack, but I've got a few folks helping me on my true "cold saw" thru PM's and I can't get a pic to work there.
You can see the highly advanced material clamping on this saw, the guy's I've talked to tell me that there is no comparison to either an abrasive saw or the "other" high speed dry saw (3000 ish rpm) This saw operates at 30 & 60 rpm and the blade is tool steel. They tell me it is very accurate on angles, as you can see, the motor (saw) turns for angles rather than the material.

 

[flyerdan]

I'd bet that the nose-piece with the worm gear comes off just ahead of the cooling fins, and the motor shaft is keyed into it like a direct drive pressure washer. You're correct on the accuracy of the table, when you get her running you will love it.

 

[Rustyiron]

I'll admit, I know "jack" xxxx about motors, I hope your right Dan. My next stop is at a specialty motor & rewinding shop to see what they say. Boy I'd love to find a 220v single P motor that fit's it.

 

[bigdeano]

Even with a lower voltage it might well have enough power. It looks like a heavy duty industrial setup and is probably overpowered to start with. Since its a variable load application you won't hurt the motor by running it on a lower voltage.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've been "asking around" everywhere since I'm ignorant in this electrical/motor area and one thing I was told was that over powering would not hurt it, but under powering would burn it up:confused3:
One suggestion was to pull the fan cover and put on a pulley and drive it with another motor, that might be a lesser contraption than some of the other assortment of VFD's and thing a ma bob's that has been offered (on other site's) and may as well been talking Chinese to me:laughing:

 

[aczlan]

I'd bet that the nose-piece with the worm gear comes off just ahead of the cooling fins, and the motor shaft is keyed into it like a direct drive pressure washer. You're correct on the accuracy of the table, when you get her running you will love it.

Yep, remove the worm gear, unbolt the 4 bolts under it, remove the bolts into the fins and see if it will come off.
Too bad it doesn't have the frame size on the tag.

Aaron Z

 

[flyerdan]

I was having a nose-about on ebay and ran across a damaged take-off motor from a Brobo cold saw, which is quite similar to yours. Here's the shaft end.
Listing

 

[Rustyiron]

Do you guy's think that the motor (in 220v) still may be something I could find?
Been busy plowing since yesterday, but I'' try to pull that "nose" off & see what I have.

 

[flyerdan]

I seriously doubt there is a simple bolt on solution or everyone would be buying cheap J head mills and lathes and repowering them for residential use. What you might be able to do, assuming that the worm gear end is a keyed slip fit over a round shaft, is to find a 56C frame motor with a longer shaft of the proper diameter, make an adaptor plate that has holes to mount to the motor and studs to mount it to the saw. Cut the excess shaft off to allow for the extra adaptor plate thickness and mate them up. Normally that would require a lot of precision measuring and such, but I would cheat and make the plate blank, with a hole for the shaft and the holes to mount to the motor, those would be an easy layout. Then cut the shaft, and match up the two pieces and transfer punch where the studs need to go. That will assure that the motor lines up to the driven gear. Doing that will probably eliminate the dual speed option.
Just took a look at Surplus Center; see if you can find a frame type on the motor, they have a 182TC 3ph motor that looks quite similar to what you have, and they have the same frame in 220 1ph.

 

[Rustyiron]

I wouldn't be opposed to buying a 3 phase motor @ 440v and running a converter. I run one on my Iron worker. It's that Canadian 575v that seems to be the big problem.

 

[Sodo]

Here's cutting stacks of 1x1x1/8" angle iron with the Milwaukie cold cut saw.
Cuts fast.
I always cut angle iron face-down, it's the best way.

 

[Fallon]

A VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) should run $150-400, probably somewhere in the middle. They take 1 or 3 phase in & convert it to 1 or 3 phase out at configurable frequencies & voltages. Probably a lot cheaper & easier than replacing that motor. You can also dynamically control the motor speed or put in dynamic braking if you set it up.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I bought a Makita cold saw the other day. Anxiously waiting for it to get delivered. I looked at the DeWalt, but it had the same crappy angle adjustment and clamp that my old Dewalt abrasive saw had. The Makita has a smaller blade (12" versus 14"), but the quality of the saw was so much better. I don't plan to be cutting anything too big with it anyway. I'll report back once I've used it a bit.

Gsganzer,
I am considering making the same choice. Have you been able to use the Makita yet? Is the clamp really that much better than your Dewalt abrasive (I have one too)?

Any chance you can post some pics of the work surface? Online picture aren't good.

I'm a little concerned about loosing that 2" of cut depth. :confused3:

 

[gsganzer]

Gsganzer,
I am considering making the same choice. Have you been able to use the Makita yet? Is the clamp really that much better than your Dewalt abrasive (I have one too)?

Any chance you can post some pics of the work surface? Online picture aren't good.

I'm a little concerned about loosing that 2" of cut depth. :confused3:

I'll get some photo's later today when I cut some pipe and angle.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I'll get some photo's later today when I cut some pipe and angle.

Awesome. Thanks. I'd especially like to see the clamping mechanics without anything clamped in them.

 

[gsganzer]

Awesome. Thanks. I'd especially like to see the clamping mechanics without anything clamped in them.

Here's some photo's. On the photo showing the top of the saw, you can see the adjustable index pointer and nice raised angle text. You also see the holder for the blade wrench


On the next photo, you can see the lever that tightens the fence to each position. You pull the lever out to gain more leverage and then can slide it in so it's out of the way for storage.


Here's the lever from the underside.


This last photo shows the quick engage/disengage for the all-thread clamp. You cam the knob left or right.


Let me know if you want any other photo's. I think you'd probably be happy with either the 14" Dewalt or the 12" Makita, I don't think the Makita's 2" diameter of the blade is much to worry about. It's amazing how fast these saws cut and how nice of an edge they leave. Just like any saw, you definitely want to use eye, ear and hand protection. I'll never use my abrasive saw again.

 

[Rustyiron]

That looks far superior to my 12 year old DeWalt.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Here are two old photos I dug up showing a cut in my 12" Makita. Trimming a corner off a short piece of 2x2. The vise is excellent.