I may go a bit wide since no specific issue with the abrasive was brought up ...
They can be a pain, esp if loaded up with metal, and are usually equipped to cut steel vs soft metals. btw: angles cut best with the 'mouth' down, square tubing in a v-block, and flat stock on edge. 'Chunking-out' of a wheel, if not from plunging too quickly into a cut, usually comes from too much pressure on a wheel that needs to be dressed, and I would (do) use the same abrasive 'stick' for that as with vitreous grinding wheels.
Similar-looking dry cutting saws from Milwaukee and DeWalt turn at about half or less the rpm. Some guys have had success cutting aluminum extrusions with the carbide blades in the faster saws, but with the risk tossing teeth at very high speed, and/because of difficulty in feeding smoothly into the cut likely had someone hold their beer while they did it.
I say don't. I might sharpen your blade with a nicked tooth here or there (esp if only for wood-cutting), but bust off a few in a row and it's a tosser.
A lot depends on what or how much material you're cutting, or maybe the variety. What abrasive saws do most poorly is cut thick or heavy stock that's better sent to a bandsaw or an industrial cold saw that uses carbide and flood coolant. Abrasive saws are hardly very versatile, say up to choice of wheel and that's about it. The box store cold cut carbides don't cost much less than say a decent
used industrial cold cut saw (wet) or bandsaw. I'd hate to much fab work without one or the other of those.
