Chains vs straps

[mikester]

Move the weight backwards a wee bit (the pic looks a little front heavy with a lot of tongue weight for your LD truck), chock the tractor wheels, make sure the loader is in its lowest position and can't move (make the bucket flat or all the way forward, not in the middle). Get wider straps than 2 inch and make sure they ratchet properly and the tractor is snugged down tight. Don't waste money on uncertified cheapo straps. If the straps are failing for no reason then throw them all in the garbage and switch brands asap.

What's your tailer and tractor weight?

 

[Peter 315]

Try using a rachet chain binder?
I gave up on lever binders years ago

Same here.........:thumbsup:

 

[Redlands Okie]

I personally like and use chains and binders usually. I will say that using a cheater pipe to extend the handle of a chain binder is not a great idea. It’s a horrible idea to use a cheater pipe to loosen the binder. Loosening a really tight binder by hand can be risky if your not careful.

Check out the easily used and punched extension handle type below. Easy to tighten binders with and way safer if needing a handle to loosen the binder.


Chrome Combination Winch Bar Square Head


$20 dollars or so well spent. Pick a retailer of your choice. So much safer than a piece of pipe.

 

[Tinhack]

No need for any extension handle for the ratchet type binders. You're talking about the lever type. Not only are those dangerous during binding but also can come loose if the handle is not wrapped. I quit using them. It's worth the extra few bucks for the ratchet binders. And don't skimp on the chain either. Use a good Grade 70 chain.

It's rather silly to haul a $40,000+ load with $40 worth of chain or straps. Remember; YOU are responsible for ALL damage caused by an unsecured load. And that's not just your damage. It's all the damage you caused around you. Does Liability sound familiar?

 

[newbury]

I haul my tractors quite a bit , i use chains on the tractor and straps on any implement.

Yup. that's what I've read here for the last decade.

No need for any extension handle for the ratchet type binders. You're talking about the lever type. Not only are those dangerous during binding but also can come loose if the handle is not wrapped. I quit using them. It's worth the extra few bucks for the ratchet binders. And don't skimp on the chain either. Use a good Grade 70 chain.

It's rather silly to haul a $40,000+ load with $40 worth of chain or straps. Remember; YOU are responsible for ALL damage caused by an unsecured load. And that's not just your damage. It's all the damage you caused around you. Does Liability sound familiar?

I think ratchet binders and lever binders each have their place.

Lever binders are quick and easy, just be sure to wrap the handle closed. Inexpensive ratchet binders don't fold as small and require more Fluid Film to keep operational.

I like to use a pair of each. Get it locked down with the Lever binders then make it squat with the ratchet binders.

Fire hose was mentioned - Excellent protection for anything where it's likely to rub. I bought some surplus.

 

[Bearsixty7]

If youæ±*e hauling something with a lot of bounce like an ATV putting blocks under it and pulling it down tight eliminates that problem.

ATV's are not an issue, not enough force with those tiny springs and many people just strap the tires which works well. Jeeps with lifted long travel suspension can be an issue and blocking them is unnecessary and time consuming, proper strap geometry is all that is needed and they are good and secure in just a few minutes.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the binders (ratchet or lever type) are not to be used as the final chain connection. The chain must be connected to the deck or tie down point and to the item being hauled directly. The binders just attach parallel to the chain and take out the slack.

And yes, use high strength chain, not grade 43 or less!

This is incorrect!

https://www.totallandscapecare.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2014/06/Tie-down_BWS9476.jpg

 

[4570Man]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the binders (ratchet or lever type) are not to be used as the final chain connection. The chain must be connected to the deck or tie down point and to the item being hauled directly. The binders just attach parallel to the chain and take out the slack.

And yes, use high strength chain, not grade 43 or less!

This is incorrect!

https://www.totallandscapecare.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2014/06/Tie-down_BWS9476.jpg

I prefer the chain hooked all the way to the deck but I’m pretty sure there’s no regulation preventing that. My 10 foot chains are a little too short for an all the way across chain job and I do that sometimes.

 

[Big Barn]

The highest quality load binders whether lever or ratchet is irrelevant if you don’t know what you are doing.

Designated or suitable attachment points, UNtwisted chain, and common sense are just a few of the important things to consider.

I have moved tractors and equipment on trucks and lowbeds all my life and never had a problem. Hardly ever used a cheater bar. Just lever binders, a clear head and a good pair of gloves.

 

[4570Man]

I have moved tractors and equipment on trucks and lowbeds all my life and never had a problem. Hardly ever used a cheater bar. Just lever binders, a clear head and a good pair of gloves. [/QUOTE]




I’ve had plenty of occasions where I can’t get the binder latched and one link looser is too loose. But you don’t need a 6’ pipe like apparently some people think. A 18” pipe is enough.

 

[Reb954]

I think my pipe is 24" to 30" long but that is just so I don't have to exert so much energy. I also setup so I can take half links if one full link is too tight or loose. No need to fight it.

Someone also said to never use a pipe to loosen a lever binder, I beg to differ on that one.

 

[RickB]

I think my pipe is 24" to 30" long but that is just so I don't have to exert so much energy. I also setup so I can take half links if one full link is too tight or loose. No need to fight it.

Someone also said to never use a pipe to loosen a lever binder, I beg to differ on that one.

That's right.

 

[Peter 315]

This what I have and used for the last 30 years Like anything else you have to use it right and be careful you don't get smashed in the face.........Standard Chrome Combination Winch Bar

 

[wolfpack2]

I used to use chain on all four corners. Switched to 2" commercial axle straps. The tractor is only 5K and 4 straps handle it without an issue. The have built in abrasion sleeves and are rated at 3300 lbs WLL each. I still use chain for the loader and any rear attachments as they all have sharp edges that will destroy any strap in short order.

VULCAN Snap Hook Car Tie Down with Flat Snap Hook Ratchet - 2 Inch x 96 Inch, 2 Pack - PROSeries - 3,3 Pound Safe Working Load

 

[Industrial Toys]

Straps holding material is one thing. But for my eye, holding a tractor just seems wrong. Everything else in the picture looks good, until you see the straps. I know they are rated, but to me, they might as well be bunjie cords. I have little doubt in a rollover those straps would break. Not a 70 grade chain.

 

[hslogger]

I prefer the chain hooked all the way to the deck but I知 pretty sure there痴 no regulation preventing that. My 10 foot chains are a little too short for an all the way across chain job and I do that sometimes.

If you insist on just keeping short chains that sometimes don't meet your destinations..... Make up a few Jump chains. That would be chains that are only a couple or three feet long. A grab hook on one end and the other end wild. These short chains come in real handy when you need an extension. Professional haulers all caryr a binder bar. One end for the binder handle and the other end for the bed side mount strap spools. Log truckers keep a few jump chains at hand and use them often as well as the binder bar.

 

[coobie]

Greetings. I was hauling a John Deere 3039R for a friend recently on a 550 mile trip. All we had to tie down with was 2" ratchet straps. I had a mix of Macs and Husky straps. We put 8 straps on the tractor. It seemed like overkill, but we had them and I wanted to use them. About half way through the trip, we hit some really bumpy roads so we decided to stop and check the straps. The webbing had broken on one of the Husky straps. Needless to say, this somewhat broke our confidence in the straps. All I ever hauled heavy has been Jeeps. Are straps even considered safe for hauling a tractor like this, or should I have used chains? Asking in case I ever need to haul it again. Thanks!

View attachment 676880

Buy heavy-duty commerical 4 inch straps with end chains and hooks not the 2 inch cheapies ..

 

[FTG-05]

I haul my tractors quite a bit , i use chains on the tractor and straps on any implement.

Same here.

 

[99ls1tj]

Move the weight backwards a wee bit (the pic looks a little front heavy with a lot of tongue weight for your LD truck), chock the tractor wheels, make sure the loader is in its lowest position and can't move (make the bucket flat or all the way forward, not in the middle). Get wider straps than 2 inch and make sure they ratchet properly and the tractor is snugged down tight. Don't waste money on uncertified cheapo straps. If the straps are failing for no reason then throw them all in the garbage and switch brands asap.

What's your tailer and tractor weight?

5700 with attachments and 2300 on the trailer. The suspension settled about 1.5-2". I may have been a little heavy on the tongue weight. I may get weigh safe hitch in the future. Thanks

 

[Bearsixty7]

I used to use chain on all four corners. Switched to 2" commercial axle straps. The tractor is only 5K and 4 straps handle it without an issue. The have built in abrasion sleeves and are rated at 3300 lbs WLL each. I still use chain for the loader and any rear attachments as they all have sharp edges that will destroy any strap in short order.

VULCAN Snap Hook Car Tie Down with Flat Snap Hook Ratchet - 2 Inch x 96 Inch, 2 Pack - PROSeries - 3,3 Pound Safe Working Load

Looks good to me, good geometry on the straps, straps are high quality. Only thing I might change is some say don't strap to the front axle. So make some loops to bolt on to front of the frame to attach the straps to.

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