Chains for Wet Heavy Snow

[Garycw]

Majority of plowing at one property is gravel drive. Probably 1500 ft. And yes it's hard, but still gets reg roomed with box blade a few times a year. I don't worry about it at all. It's the concrete & asphalt that gets scratched up. I guess if you don't spin much it's not too bad.

 

[kco]

tkcomer, it looks like your 15x19.5 R4's are similar to the 43x16x20 R4's on my DK35 (which I think translates to 16.9x20). I bought standard DUO's and was not happy with them. They were rough due to the large gap between the patterns and the chain end closure. I tried to fix the large gap at the closure, but it still had a large gap as seen on the right tire of this photo:



The DUO/Ladder chains you are considering should be an improvement over standard DUO's. I fixed my DUO's by adding patterns and converting them to an H-Pattern as shown here:



That closed the patterns, reducing slippage and smoothing the ride but I still had to fill the end gap (seen on the right tire in the above photo) with a single cross chain.

Last spring I finally fixed the end gap by adding an additional DUO pattern and using pin couplers to connect them over the closure at the chain ends as shown in these photos:



This made the chains smoother and more effective, and properly closing the end gaps stopped them from becoming misaligned. I was fortunate to be able to buy bulk DUO patterns locally at a good price to make the modifications. I also had to buy a chain tool.

I was not happy with the DUO's until I converted them to an H-pattern with properly closed end gaps.

I like the H-pattern chains but, as another poster said, something like Aquilines might be a good option. Also, take a look at some of the Trygg and other Nordic chains which have similar patterns to Aquilines and H-patterns.

I originally started with some free 4-link ladders which were completely ineffective.

 

[PILOON]

On my turfs I use dual cross studded link ice chains. That is the cross links are at ever 3 link.
(made them up myself by converting H style and adding more cross links.)
Being that close there is always 2 cross links in contact and there is never slippage.
Part of my drive (hilly portion) is paved and come spring there is no signs of chain damage.

 

[tkcomer]

I've read where chains can get down in the tread of a R-4 tire. That's why I asked about the duo ladder style chain. Not sure about the V-bar. To me, if I get to slipping with chains on, I need to quit. Instead of digging holes in the gravel.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've read where chains can get down in the tread of a R-4 tire. That's why I asked about the duo ladder style chain. Not sure about the V-bar. To me, if I get to slipping with chains on, I need to quit. Instead of digging holes in the gravel.

I think those chains will do what you want, at a reasonable cost. They might be a little "bumpy", but you're snow plowing, not headed to Sunday meeting with the family.:thumbsup:

 

[arrow]

I've read where chains can get down in the tread of a R-4 tire. That's why I asked about the duo ladder style chain. Not sure about the V-bar. To me, if I get to slipping with chains on, I need to quit. Instead of digging holes in the gravel.

Some controversy about this. If chains are run loose, it does not matter that they look like they're in the grooves on top of the tire. As the tire comes around, they sag. I have simple 4 link ladders on back with ags. If I run across ice, all you see is cleat marks digging into the ice as it's the chain that hits the surface first.

A fellow member on tBN was having the same trouble as you are. Same tire size as well. He got 2 link ladders, put them on and still was having trouble with slipping. I told him to take the tensioners off. Had no trouble after that.
Another member had the exact opposite effect. He had to tighten his chains to get traction. This is why it is so difficult to match chains. What works for one does not for the other.

Apparently, the devil is in the details. Too many variables such as wet snow, dry stuff, hard cold, fresh fallen wet stuff on unfrozen ground, tread design,etc. Wider tires have more flotation. Harder to get a bite as you already know. If I were in your shoes, I'd get a simple set of 2 link ladders for the rears. They are a dense enough chain where they won't get lost in the grooves. Try them loose and tightened to see what works best for you.

 

[arrow]

A picture of some real ugly chains. A set of these may eliminate many of the OP' s traction problems.

[video]http://www.silverlakefabrication.com/logging/tryggsuper-dutytightringchains.jpg[/video]

These are indeed skidder chains. The center rings that look so small in the picture were 10"across on our skidders. If you threw a chain in the woods, you just attached it to the skidder until you got back to the landing as there was little chance one guy was going to mount a 400 lb set of chain.

 

[CalG]

Any chains are better than none!

You are where? Heck, wait a day until the snow melts!

 

[skyhook]

kco, I have the same chains as you (that came with my machine), I haven't used them yet "because", they need to be modified, I have "5" links in between the "H" pattern making for a wide "H". And one link between each "H". I noticed on yours that you have "3" links between the "H" and one between the "H's", I'm thinking on reducing my "5" links to "3" like yours and possibly bumping up the "H" to that single link like you did in your mods. My question to you is, how do you find the ride now and do you leave your chains on all winter or just throw them on when needed.

 

[George2615]

I just saw where the OP lives. Don't really know why he needs chains with an annual snowfall of 14-16".
Sometimes we get that amount or more per snowfall.

 

[Garycw]

I just saw where the OP lives. Don't really know why he needs chains with an annual snowfall of 14-16". Sometimes we get that amount or more per snowfall.

While he's not in the snow belt, I'm sure there's some good snows there, not to mention below 0 temps.
Last cpl years in SE KY we got clobbered a few times. Unusual weather seems to be the new norm. Luckily it's not as bad as NE

 

[Garandman]

OP, have you considered grooving your R4's? They are an improvement, with no downside, with a lengthy thread on here. I wouldn't even consider chains if I didn't have to get in the woods: they are great for plowing.

These are 15-19.5.

 

[joeyd]

I have been using 4 link v-bars on all 4 tires since I bought my TYM 353 and love them. A little bumpy while riding but no slipping on packed snow or ice. They do eat up the shop floor hence the OSB to park on. I keep the tensioners on and the cross pieces have never slipped between the treads. Tirechains.com has been a pleasure to deal with.

 

[Garycw]

In very snowy regions a blower is sometimes the best option, with less snow a blade is better & faster. Without weight & chains, you're not going anywhere

Tirechains.com has been my best resource for any & all tire chains. Good prices & fast ship.
I've never had to use tensioners.
They're helpful if in the garden too.

 

[varmint]

Garycw, I respectfully disagree- I don't really need chains until there is ice or icy conditions. But I would second Tirechains,com... they were good when I bought my first set of chains and didn't know squat.

 

[tkcomer]

Snow around here is kinda sporadic. And it is pretty windy around my place. I get drifts about 30 feet into the driveway from the road. I can have grass showing in the yard and have a 2 foot drift 10 yards long in front of the garage. If the snow is dry, keeping it from drifting is a big problem. But most of our heavy snows are wet.

 

[Garycw]

Garycw, I respectfully disagree- I don't really need chains until there is ice or icy conditions. But I would second Tirechains,com... they were good when I bought my first set of chains and didn't know squat.

That may very well be in your case. I have a lot of hills and personally need the chains to get around. Especially pushing snow with turf tires on the cub3205. It's still sometimes a challenge even while using the diff lock. That's in ohio.
The JD1025 hasn't had snow duty yet and may be different. I still have a set of 4 chains ready for it if needed. That's in KY with even bigger hills in places

 

[tkcomer]

Actually, I'm hoping if I buy chains it will never snow again. This global warming has to kick in sometime. But I think I'll go with the duo ladder style. I'm going to put them on the rear and see how they do. I like my hydro tranny, but I miss being able to use the brakes for tight turns. My brakes are the type that kicks the cruise off when you touch them.

 

[Egon]

Some wind blown drifts can get pretty hard. Makes a set of chains feel real good as they wear through the hard pack.

 

[kco]

kco, I have the same chains as you (that came with my machine), I haven't used them yet "because", they need to be modified, I have "5" links in between the "H" pattern making for a wide "H". And one link between each "H". I noticed on yours that you have "3" links between the "H" and one between the "H's", I'm thinking on reducing my "5" links to "3" like yours and possibly bumping up the "H" to that single link like you did in your mods. My question to you is, how do you find the ride now and do you leave your chains on all winter or just throw them on when needed.

The ride and traction are much better. Before the modification you could feel the chains slip and grab between the patterns. I bought a chain tool and it took a day or so to make the modifications. I install the chains in early December and leave them on until mid March.

If you decide to add patterns try to find a local supplier who builds chains and purchase bulk patterns. It was about 1/2 the price compared to ordering patterns from CanadianChains.ca. You will end up with a lot of spare cross hooks and side chain pieces when take the DUO patterns out of the bulk chain to add them to your existing chains. I used the spare pieces to make tensioners as shown in my earlier post in this thread. Here is a link to a thread about modifying the chains:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-chains-planned-modifications.html?highlight=

I also prefer the pin coupler (rather than ordinary screw-type link or shackles) for closing the tail end of the chain to the start.