Chain sharpening woes.

[big bubba]

finally got the Oregon bench grinder. having the hyd rather than manual vice clamp (for me) is a real advantage. i don't field sharpen, just carry spare chains. takes me 5-7 min to dress a dull chain.
probably way too expensive for most, i hear you...but i'm retired & finally can afford quality tools. many do well with more simple setups, hats off to ya. i support any system that works for a person.

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-620-120-Hydraulic-Assist-Grinder/dp/B00ULDRXHE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3C74WY22N227I&keywords=organ+bench+chainsaw+sharpener&qid=1644506214&sprefix=organ+bench+chain+saw+sharpener%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-3

 

[koshari]

Definitely agree. I find this tool keeps my chains nice and sharp on a consistent basis. Only issue I have is that you have to buy a different tool for each size chain you have. Its too bad that you cannot interchange files with the frame housing. Still worth it IMO.

no big deal to have the correct size one in ea saws gearbag, the chinese are knocking these off now for ccomplete unit cheaper than pferd charge for a replacement raker file.

 

[newbury]

I timed it one day when I was falling timber to swap out a 36” full comp square chisel chain and clean out the clutch cover was under 4 minutes. It’s faster, easier, and more productive to swap a chain out vs file in the brush especially when production falling. I’ll be honest with you round chisel is for dirt work, semi chisel is harvester chain, and square is for making a dollar it’s faster as well as smoother for the operator. One downside to square is it’s harder to file can it be done yes, but it’s far quicker to swap the chain out for a grind in the evening when servicing for the next day.

Is that 4 minutes with either an inboard or outboard clutch?

 

[ArlyA]

finally got the Oregon bench grinder. having the hyd rather than manual vice clamp (for me) is a real advantage. i don't field sharpen, just carry spare chains. takes me 5-7 min to dress a dull chain.
probably way too expensive for most, i hear you...but i'm retired & finally can afford quality tools. many do well with more simple setups, hats off to ya. i support any system that works for a person.

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-620-120-Hydraulic-Assist-Grinder/dp/B00ULDRXHE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3C74WY22N227I&keywords=organ+bench+chainsaw+sharpener&qid=1644506214&sprefix=organ+bench+chain+saw+sharpener%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-3

Looks like this nice unit does not knock the rakes down unless you change the stone.. Did get good reviews.

 

[big bubba]

Looks like this nice unit does not knock the rakes down unless you change the stone.. Did get good reviews.

exactly, a broader wheel for that, plus angle change, etc. i sharpen 2 chain sizes anyway, wheels interchange easily. i cut & sharpen only seasonally, have no business owning this expensive machine, but it's very smooth with good repeatability. hearkens back to my machinist days

 

[Skeans1]

Is that 4 minutes with either an inboard or outboard clutch?

That was an inboard on a Stihl with the pain in the butt adjuster, an outboard clutch is just as fast to swap a chain.

 

[PILOON]

I always hand file my chains or should I say 'touch up' every fuel tank or 3.
Those chains already tell U the proper angle, just look, eyeball and one or 2 strokes to simply touch up the cutting edge and , presto, you have a sharp cutting chain.

OK, occasionally want to lower the rakers but again with a good single cut file a stroke or 2 will do a decent job.
One trick is to not wait until heat has hardened those teeth , do it often!
And, so what if all rakers are not totally evenly lowered, they will be better than they were B4and still give a decent cut.

Possibly more important is to draw file the bar from time to time to assure you have a nice flat surface for your chain to run on otherwise the chain will sort of rock from side to side and cause excessive track wear and bars cost more than a chain.

 

[Skeans1]

I always hand file my chains or should I say 'touch up' every fuel tank or 3.
Those chains already tell U the proper angle, just look, eyeball and one or 2 strokes to simply touch up the cutting edge and , presto, you have a sharp cutting chain.

OK, occasionally want to lower the rakers but again with a good single cut file a stroke or 2 will do a decent job.
One trick is to not wait until heat has hardened those teeth , do it often!
And, so what if all rakers are not totally evenly lowered, they will be better than they were B4and still give a decent cut.

Possibly more important is to draw file the bar from time to time to assure you have a nice flat surface for your chain to run on otherwise the chain will sort of rock from side to side and cause excessive track wear and bars cost more than a chain.

It’s going to depend on your personal usage myself I want to let go of those bars and only use the throttle to control the cuts. One way to think about it is if you’re having to use more energy you’re more likely to have something happen and not be on your A game well falling. Put on a long bar or a bar that has some flex in it and watch it walk in the cut if stuff isn’t right.

 

[hornett22]

@stephenh And you just highlighted the main reason that people have an bad taste in their mouth about dealers sharpening chains. The running joke around my shop is "you only get three sharpening out of a chain when using an electric sharpener" In reality there is no reason to remove more metal with an electric chain sharpener than you would with a file.

Most shops that sharpen chain, sell chain. They seem to conveniently shorten the life of your chain. Not to mention overheat the metal by either not giving a **** or not knowing what they are doing.

I don't seem to have this problem sharpening my own chains with my own grinder.

 

[jyoutz]

I have been getting my saw chains sharpened (for me for the last 20 years), since it has been been cheap, well done and easy(er). I have the proper round file, with guide, that I've used for touch ups.

Since moving to rural Iowa, I had to find/choose a new hardware store for this (normally painless) task. I took five chains in, and two weeks(!) later, they were done - after I called 'em they got done that day. Tried one, then the second "sharpened" chains and got sawdust. Arrrrg. I checked the chains and they indeed were sharp, but the rakers were not addressed. They are flush with the cutters. I have now bought a depth gauge and will need to re-do the chains, by hand. Since the closest chain sharpener is 30 minutes now, I will start doing these myself.

There’s probably not a lot of experienced saw filers in corn country.