Chain sharpening woes.

[Buggs67]

I have one very much like this. It works well. I do the same # of strokes on each tooth. And take the depth gauges down with a 4" hand grinder (there are no rakers on chain saws).

Granberg Bar-Mount Chainsaw Sharpener, Model# G-106B | Northern Tool

Designed by Elof Granberg over 35 years ago, the File-N-Joint is an industry standard for accuracy and durability. This guide allow...

www.northerntool.com

This is good for quick touch-ups in the field.

I also managed to pickup a chain sharpening grinder by Harbor Freight at a yard sale for $5. It works well and resets all teeth to the same dimension. My neighbor has a much nice machine and will sharpen my chains for nothing but I don't like to abuse his friendship.

I used to drop them off at the hardware store and for $5 they came back well sharpened.

 

[WranglerX]

I have one very much like this. It works well. I do the same # of strokes on each tooth. And take the depth gauges down with a 4" hand grinder (there are no rakers on chain saws).

Granberg Bar-Mount Chainsaw Sharpener, Model# G-106B | Northern Tool

Designed by Elof Granberg over 35 years ago, the File-N-Joint is an industry standard for accuracy and durability. This guide allow...

www.northerntool.com

This is good for quick touch-ups in the field.
View attachment 730398
I also managed to pickup a chain sharpening grinder by Harbor Freight at a yard sale for $5. It works well and resets all teeth to the same dimension. My neighbor has a much nice machine and will sharpen my chains for nothing but I don't like to abuse his friendship.

I used to drop them off at the hardware store and for $5 they came back well sharpened.

After abusing chain with dirt contact and using Dremel and rotary stone and hand files with poor success, I finally resorted to HF grinder..... BUT found instead of trying to adjust all the gizmos other then angle and depth of grind I let wheel drop and push "head" sideways to lightly contact tooth... Last chain I had to go around at lease twice as I dulled many of the points on the teeth and it took alot or material removal to get it cutting edge again...

 

[hornett22]

Stihl 2n1 filing guide is pretty good for beginners. I don't think you'll find better.

 

[sdquick]

This guy does a tone of really good reviews. This one is on chain sharpeners. Worth watching.

Click Link here: LINK

Or address here:

 

[shooterdon]

I will stay with my Pferd guide. Not the "best" but no set up, and no power needed. For a hack like me, good enough is good enough. No need to learn how to do it like the old timers when this simple tool does a decent job.

If I but 50 cords a year I might think differently.

 

[lman]

I've got the

This guy does a tone of really good reviews. This one is on chain sharpeners. Worth watching.

Click Link here: LINK

Or address here:

I've got that Granberg 12v model that he rated highly, but you can get it much cheaper someplace besides Amazon. I believe I paid about $80 about 5 years ago. I sharpen mine in my vice on the bench and use a portable jump box to power it.

 

[lman]

I bought mine from the location below. That's $70 less than what Amazon is selling it for.

G-1012XT - Granberg Precision Grinder

G-1012XT - Granberg Precision Grinder

www.mfgsupply.com

 

[kenmbz]

I have the oregon field unit, for the price and portability it works really well, the pferd/stihl is a good unit too for out in the field. The rest are too complicated or cumbersome for me to use when wandering in the woods, and I don't know if they have enough of an advantage.
The amount of work PF did for this comparison is quite intense.
But wood density could impact the test as much as anything else if the sharpening is done right.

Do the grinder ones wear the chain faster?

 

[flat tyre]

This. 12V, think

it cost me 60 bucks or so, has a gauge so 30 degree sharpening angle is easy. I use it to sharpen chains while clearing trail while dirt bike riding, attaches easy to the bike’s battery

 

[AchingBack]

Yep. They are a rebadged pferd sharpener and all I have used for years. Literally foolproof. Do rakers as you go. They do a rebadged one for husky as well.

I use to dread sharpening. The 2in1 changed my results tremendously. I won't use anything else.

 

[Bavarian]

I bought the Oregon sharpener last year.
It takes a bit to get used to it. After that, it works like a charm.
To the question, if ekectric sharpeners wear the chain faster? Depends how much you grind off every time.
On almost every new chain, I touch the limiters a bit. We have almost poplar and pine only. They can take a bit of a deeper bite.

 

[DJ54]

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-23820...ainsaw+sharpening+guide&qid=1641233501&sr=8-5

Like Oaktree, we've used the style for years. Clamp on bar, no need to remove the chain. Inspect the chain before starting, find the worst link. Count the strokes it takes it sharpen it. Give all of the other teeth the same amount on both sides. Otherwise, it may cut crooked in a larger log. Used the depth gauge w/flat file for the raker's. After a while, experience will let you take so many strokes with a flat file, compared to how many you made with the round file. Mark the first tooth sharpened with a lumber crayon, or paint pen, so you know where to stop. Been using this style for 40+ years around here.

Easiest to hold the saw in a Vise. Bought some used vise's at auctions, and mounted it on the carry-all for in field sharpening, if needed. Carried another sharpener, extra files in the tool box on the tractor used for wood cutting. Dad bought the first one's through a place in PA. back in the late 60's, early 70's called Zip-Penn. The name has changed, and can't recall what it is now. They worked so well, bought several more when they would have them on sale to have "just in case". Still a new one hanging in his sharpening shop, he made for sharpening blades for the band mill. Bought chain files in bulk, by the dozen. Then, were USA made, not sure about now. Still have 3-4 boxes of NIB files, purchased when they would run sales. Dad passed years ago, and my wood cutting amounts to cutting tree's around the hayfield, or cutting up limbs that have fell off neighbors trees surrounding that field. Enough on hand, to last me the rest of my life.

 

[kenmac]

I have the Oregon bench style grinder. I could never sharpen a chain. This is as good as it gets for me

Amazon.com

 

[Dragonpharm]

I sharpened thousands of chains in my youth working for my dad. The professional grinder setup was pretty straightforward and quick with practice. That setup made it easy to sharpen the teeth and shave a bit off the depth guage too. It had a handy flip stop for switching to depth guage. Having said that, I've taken mine to a local shop for a number of years. Recently picked up a HF sharpener to go along with Stihl files. It's easier to touch up a few at a time at home. I own quite a few spare chains and decided to stop paying to sharpen all of them.

 

[Oaktree]

I have the Oregon bench style grinder. I could never sharpen a chain. This is as good as it gets for me

A little pricey for me. I could throw away & replace a chain every time it got dull and still come out ahead.

 

[RandyT]

A little pricey for me. I could throw away & replace a chain every time it got dull and still come out ahead.

The top of the line sharpeners can be a little pricy. I an running a Silvey 510 with ABN sharpening wheels. That grinder was $718 20 years ago, and the two ABN wheels are $270. Would like to get into the square ground stuff, but that Simington grinder for $1900 is a little pricy even for my line of work. Back when Silvey still made grinders the square ground sharpeners started at around $2000 and when up from there, and that was 10 years ago before going out of business.

 

[kenmac]

A little pricey for me. I could throw away & replace a chain every time it got dull and still come out ahead.

I guess. if you buying cheap chains . My 20'' chains run about $30.00 each. More for my 372 with 28'' bar

 

[hornett22]

A little pricey for me. I could throw away & replace a chain every time it got dull and still come out ahead.

A resourceful person might find one used. I picked up a used oregon for the price of about 4 good chains.

 

[Skeans1]

Amazon.com : Oregon 23820 Sure Sharp Chainsaw Manual Filing/Sharpening Guide , grey : Saw Sharpening Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Like Oaktree, we've used the style for years. Clamp on bar, no need to remove the chain. Inspect the chain before starting, find the worst link. Count the strokes it takes it sharpen it. Give all of the other teeth the same amount on both sides. Otherwise, it may cut crooked in a larger log. Used the depth gauge w/flat file for the raker's. After a while, experience will let you take so many strokes with a flat file, compared to how many you made with the round file. Mark the first tooth sharpened with a lumber crayon, or paint pen, so you know where to stop. Been using this style for 40+ years around here.

Easiest to hold the saw in a Vise. Bought some used vise's at auctions, and mounted it on the carry-all for in field sharpening, if needed. Carried another sharpener, extra files in the tool box on the tractor used for wood cutting. Dad bought the first one's through a place in PA. back in the late 60's, early 70's called Zip-Penn. The name has changed, and can't recall what it is now. They worked so well, bought several more when they would have them on sale to have "just in case". Still a new one hanging in his sharpening shop, he made for sharpening blades for the band mill. Bought chain files in bulk, by the dozen. Then, were USA made, not sure about now. Still have 3-4 boxes of NIB files, purchased when they would run sales. Dad passed years ago, and my wood cutting amounts to cutting tree's around the hayfield, or cutting up limbs that have fell off neighbors trees surrounding that field. Enough on hand, to last me the rest of my life.

No need to pull a chain? How about flip the bar once in a blue, clean the rails, clean the oiling hole, and clean out the clutch cover are a few good reasons.

 

[Skeans1]

The top of the line sharpeners can be a little pricy. I an running a Silvey 510 with ABN sharpening wheels. That grinder was $718 20 years ago, and the two ABN wheels are $270. Would like to get into the square ground stuff, but that Simington grinder for $1900 is a little pricy even for my line of work. Back when Silvey still made grinders the square ground sharpeners started at around $2000 and when up from there, and that was 10 years ago before going out of business.

My pro sharp was under that 1900 mark brand new still in service to this day. The Silvey 500 I have is still in service from the 70’s, but for round I like my super jolly it’s like an Oregon 610 for harvester chains.