Anonymous Poster
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yes both ends need to swivel, but at right angles to each other
Carryall & 3pt geometry question
- Thread starter phantom309
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Anonymous Poster
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Ok let me clarify that statement about the right angles. If you fabricate a top link from a regular cylinder its easy to weld a normal top link swivel to the threaded end and that should be the implement side. Pictures I have seen on many hydraulic supplier sites will show the swivel end on one side like i described and they use a sort of universal joint arrangement on the tractor side. This is where the right angle concept comes in. You take a big chunk of steel, drill a hole and connect it to the cylinder with the big pin. But before you connect it to cylinder you drill another hole in the chunk of steel after you rotate it 90 degrees. One hole will be vertical and the other horizontal. The horizontal hole connects to the tractor and the pin on the cylinder will be vertical. This is very strong and easy to fabricate.
Phantom309:
I made a carryall and it is on the tractor almost all the time. As you suspect it is handy for a wide variety of jobs. I scrounged 3x3x1/4 angle iron and figured out the dimensions based on the width of the tractor, and how much steel I had. I put the lower pins 27" apart but they are a bit wide; I would go for 26". The top hole is 17" above the bottom two. It does tilt as it rises, but just a bit. You could maybe reduce that to 16" or so.
For the floorboards I used 1 1/4" rough cut oak, since I use it to carry a lot of rocks.
One thing - it ended up pretty heavy, around 250 lbs. It's a bit tough to wiggle around when hooking it up. I think you could use 2x3 just as easily and save about 50 pounds, and a few bucks too.
Jim
PS I meant to add - if I shorten my top link, the position isn't too different on the ground, but it does tilt quite a bit when you raise it. I think this is partly because I have pins fairly low on the implement, so it rises pretty high up. So maybe the 17" spec would be good for the round bale job, if you just shorten your top link when you are doing that.
PPS I still mean to put some kind of screen on the back, so stuff doesn't fall forward toward the tractor. Some kind of sides would be really good too. I have used it for firewood and it tends to roll off sometimes.
I made a carryall and it is on the tractor almost all the time. As you suspect it is handy for a wide variety of jobs. I scrounged 3x3x1/4 angle iron and figured out the dimensions based on the width of the tractor, and how much steel I had. I put the lower pins 27" apart but they are a bit wide; I would go for 26". The top hole is 17" above the bottom two. It does tilt as it rises, but just a bit. You could maybe reduce that to 16" or so.
For the floorboards I used 1 1/4" rough cut oak, since I use it to carry a lot of rocks.
One thing - it ended up pretty heavy, around 250 lbs. It's a bit tough to wiggle around when hooking it up. I think you could use 2x3 just as easily and save about 50 pounds, and a few bucks too.
Jim
PS I meant to add - if I shorten my top link, the position isn't too different on the ground, but it does tilt quite a bit when you raise it. I think this is partly because I have pins fairly low on the implement, so it rises pretty high up. So maybe the 17" spec would be good for the round bale job, if you just shorten your top link when you are doing that.
PPS I still mean to put some kind of screen on the back, so stuff doesn't fall forward toward the tractor. Some kind of sides would be really good too. I have used it for firewood and it tends to roll off sometimes.
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Anonymous Poster
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Why not build the carry all vertical section with two different top link attachment points: one positioned for level motion as the carry all is raised and the other positioned to get the tilt-back action as it is raised?