Building advice needed

[Canusayduh]

My wife and I just had a 24' x 24' Morton garage built last week. It has 2 high bay garage doors, 11' high sidewalls, 1 man door, and 4 skylights.

The material was delivered on a Tuesday, they started building on Wednesday and were complete by lunch on Thursday.

The garage doors were installed this week.

The whole process with Morton Buildings has been very good. I would highly recommend them.

(I learned a long time ago that price isn't/shouldn't be the overriding decision in all things. I believe that a company that stands behind their product and is willing to be responsive is worth paying a bit more for. My 2 cents.)

Good luck!

 

[Canusayduh]

My wife and I just had a 24' x 24' Morton garage built last week. It has 2 high bay garage doors, 11' high sidewalls, 1 man door, and 4 skylights.

The material was delivered on a Tuesday, they started building on Wednesday and were complete by lunch on Thursday.

The garage doors were installed this week.

The whole process with Morton Buildings has been very good. I would highly recommend them.

(I learned a long time ago that price isn't/shouldn't be the overriding decision in all things. I believe that a company that stands behind their product and is willing to be responsive is worth paying a bit more for. My 2 cents.)

Good luck!

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Couple I've found are:
Postprotector
Plasti-sleeve

I've been quoted around $40 each for post protectors for 6x6 posts. Little steep for me. I'm getting ready to build my pole barn, I think I will backfill with dirt. I wonder if wrapping tyvec around the end would help any, just to keep the dirt off the post itself.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Couple I've found are:
Postprotector
Plasti-sleeve

I've been quoted around $40 each for post protectors for 6x6 posts. Little steep for me. I'm getting ready to build my pole barn, I think I will backfill with dirt. I wonder if wrapping tyvec around the end would help any, just to keep the dirt off the post itself.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'd be very hesitant about wraping posts that you put in the ground. It's just about impossible to keep the moisture out, and once it starts to get in, the plastic will trap the moisture in there and cause the wood to rot faster.

I would never do this.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

I'd be very hesitant about wraping posts that you put in the ground. It's just about impossible to keep the moisture out, and once it starts to get in, the plastic will trap the moisture in there and cause the wood to rot faster.

I would never do this.

Eddie

 

[drm]

I'm with Eddie on this. I have looked at wrapping the columns and the PermaColumn. Wrapping the posts will just move the point of rot to just below the top of the wrapping. If there are any rips or tears in the covering it will rot there. Wood rots due to wetting and drying. Look at wood pilings in docks/bridge pier protection and they rot at the water line or above. Look great below where they are always wet.

PermaColumn was pretty expensive 1 1/2 years ago when I looked at them. My project got delayed so if the price comes down due to better distribution and more demand I will use them otherwise treated 6x6 posts in dirt (not concrete) on precast pads.

...Derek

 

[drm]

I'm with Eddie on this. I have looked at wrapping the columns and the PermaColumn. Wrapping the posts will just move the point of rot to just below the top of the wrapping. If there are any rips or tears in the covering it will rot there. Wood rots due to wetting and drying. Look at wood pilings in docks/bridge pier protection and they rot at the water line or above. Look great below where they are always wet.

PermaColumn was pretty expensive 1 1/2 years ago when I looked at them. My project got delayed so if the price comes down due to better distribution and more demand I will use them otherwise treated 6x6 posts in dirt (not concrete) on precast pads.

...Derek

 

[flusher]

Here's a photo of the 24'x42' metal pole garage/shop I had built last June. Has 12' walls, two 10'x10' roll up doors, one window, one 36" mandoor. Cost: $16,300 installed. You can buy the material in kit form for about $11K.

The concrete slab is 6" thick with #4 rebar on 24" centers both ways. Cost: $7500.

You and a few helpers could assemble a building like this without much problem. I had it built because I'm too old for that type of stuff. My installer had a chop saw with metal cutting blade, a couple of air-powered screw guns, a power metal shear and a forklift to get the trusses in place. The siding came in 3" high sections, 24' or 42' in length.

 

[flusher]

Here's a photo of the 24'x42' metal pole garage/shop I had built last June. Has 12' walls, two 10'x10' roll up doors, one window, one 36" mandoor. Cost: $16,300 installed. You can buy the material in kit form for about $11K.

The concrete slab is 6" thick with #4 rebar on 24" centers both ways. Cost: $7500.

You and a few helpers could assemble a building like this without much problem. I had it built because I'm too old for that type of stuff. My installer had a chop saw with metal cutting blade, a couple of air-powered screw guns, a power metal shear and a forklift to get the trusses in place. The siding came in 3" high sections, 24' or 42' in length.

 

[flusher]

Typo detected: the siding came in 3-ft high sections, not 3". You can see a piece of it in the foreground lying in the weeds.

 

[flusher]

Typo detected: the siding came in 3-ft high sections, not 3". You can see a piece of it in the foreground lying in the weeds.

 

[holmstead]

Quick update. My building is complete with the exception of the floor. The cement is being poured Friday.

 

[GeneD14]

Jim,
That is a nice looking building. I like seeing steel buildings that are dressed up with overhangs on the roof, coopalas, a porch roof, etc... I think it really adds to the visual appeal.

 

[KYErik]

To all those who have put up a steel building:

I have always wondered, exactly how do you screw the sheetmetal to the steel frame? Do you just set the metal siding/roofing in place and then "feel" through the sheetmetal for a steel rib and then use self drilling screws? Or do you actually have to drill each hole through the sheetmetal and frame and then insert a screw?

 

[Silver_Knight]

What I have seen is that they drill holes through a stack of the metal siding. This allows for straight screw lines. They also use self tapping screws.

 

[KYErik]

Thanks SK- that makes sense.

 

[EddieWalker]

KYEric

The screws drill right through the sideing into the purlins.

When you put up a panel, you can see the purlins since they are still exposed. Just screw through the panel into the purlin and work your way across.

I've never seen or heard of pre-drilling your panels. To me, this is extra work that isn't necessary and could cause problems. What if you drill a hole in a panel before installing it and you get to a place where you don't want a screw? Electrical and water lines are two good reasons for this.

Eddie