building a new house
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like your crew did a really nice job for you!!!
The floor plan looks interesting too. What's the space behind the garage, and along the walkway to the garage? I was thinking it's either a covered entry to a mud room where you can come in dirty and not mess up the house, or a covered area to store things, but have them out and handy.
I'm also curious about the expansion joints in your garage. Are you enclosing it? If it's exposed to the elements, the concrete will move and need the joints, but if it's enclosed, it's not very likely to move. Just like your living area.
I understand if you don't want to say, but I am curious what concrete is going for in your area, and also what the price per foot was for the crew?
Thanks,
Eddie
The floor plan looks interesting too. What's the space behind the garage, and along the walkway to the garage? I was thinking it's either a covered entry to a mud room where you can come in dirty and not mess up the house, or a covered area to store things, but have them out and handy.
I'm also curious about the expansion joints in your garage. Are you enclosing it? If it's exposed to the elements, the concrete will move and need the joints, but if it's enclosed, it's not very likely to move. Just like your living area.
I understand if you don't want to say, but I am curious what concrete is going for in your area, and also what the price per foot was for the crew?
Thanks,
Eddie
Hello everybody, Well I just wanted to update you guy's.I had some problems with missing hardware in the slab and I forgot to form up a little popout for a window.Now that's done so we got some framing done today
That sunken floor is another nightmare the guy that helped form it made it to long so now the hallway behind it is 3ft wide it should be 4ft.You can also see where I will need to patch the concrete under that treated 2x4 .
WE got the wall done they go up in the morning,trusses will be there on wednesday and hopefully sheeting the roof next saturday
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Looks good. Everything your contractor has done looks first class. I haven't seen straps going into the foundation since I was in California. Do you have to tie them into your trusses? We had to in my area for earthquakes.
Did you put down a terminte shield or seal under the sill plates? I've found that adding both really makes a huge difference on just keeping ants out!! Not to mention everything else. hahaha
Eddie
Did you put down a terminte shield or seal under the sill plates? I've found that adding both really makes a huge difference on just keeping ants out!! Not to mention everything else. hahaha
Eddie
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
You spray the pad before you build to kill them off. It's good for a few years, but in time, they will come back. I don't know how bad they are there, but here they are terrible. My understanding is that desert, dry climates don't have very many termites. In fact, I'm suprised that you had to spray the pad for them.
You can do a google search for termite shields, but basically they are just thin metal flashing that goes under the sill plate and overhangs over the sides of the foundation. Termites can build there tunnels straight up, but run into trouble going upside down. The termite shield stops them from getting past the concrete.
Of course, I don't know how you are finishing your exterior walls. If it's brick or masonary, than you don't do this. If you are putting on wood, cement, vinyl or lap siding, than it's a good idea if you have termites. It really depends on how bad they are and how much attention you pay to your foundation.
Termites need to build tunnels to leave the ground. They cannot survive exposed to the elements. There tunnels look like dirt pencils that come up from the ground to a place they can get into the house.
Eddie
You can do a google search for termite shields, but basically they are just thin metal flashing that goes under the sill plate and overhangs over the sides of the foundation. Termites can build there tunnels straight up, but run into trouble going upside down. The termite shield stops them from getting past the concrete.
Of course, I don't know how you are finishing your exterior walls. If it's brick or masonary, than you don't do this. If you are putting on wood, cement, vinyl or lap siding, than it's a good idea if you have termites. It really depends on how bad they are and how much attention you pay to your foundation.
Termites need to build tunnels to leave the ground. They cannot survive exposed to the elements. There tunnels look like dirt pencils that come up from the ground to a place they can get into the house.
Eddie
_RaT_
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socallly said:
I like the way you did the garage with no stem walls. I take it there is no slope in the garage other then what we see at the entrance? I see your Simpson Strong wall at the garage goor openings that will get hold downs. I am getting ready to build a new garage myself.
The primer for PVC is a bit of a misunderstood part of the process. It does not prime the PVC like you think of paint primer, it actually cleans off oxidized PVC and softens the surface. If you read the instructions on the primer can, it mentions that if you cannot scratch off a very thin layer of PVC once you apply the primer, prime it again. The primer should be "scrubbed" on not just applied. Run the dauber around the pipe as necessary to thouroughly clean and etch the pipe. You also need to apply the glue to the primer in a short period of time or you need to re-soften the surface again with more primer. The color of the glue typically indicates whether it is a heavy bodied glue (grey) which is good for up to 12" PVC, clear, a medium bodied glue, or blue which is typically medium bodied but faster cure time. The cure time is dependent on the pipe size, the temp/humidity and the volatility of the PVC glue. I prefer grey and clear. In cooler whether, blue works very well. When it gets hot, go with grey or clear. When gluing up electrical conduit, do not put glue on the female fittings, it can cut wire and/or hang up the mouse used to pull string in the conduit. I use primer on older, oxidized conduit. If its very new and clean with no UV exposure, I do not.
I look forward to more pictures. I still enjoy going to building sites to see whats going on. There is some very creative stuff going on out there.
PS, use the radiant barrier plywood/OSB on the roof, it is amazing. The cost will quickly be recovered. Mark
Hello again,What a day,perfect weather,and a beautiful sky to stare at.I can't begin to tell you how greatful I am for my friend and his crew to come out on the weekend and get it done.These guys have done so much so fast I fill happy with the work done so far.Well we got the walls done today,shear panel tomorrow,trusses sooon>>>>
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I'm a little confused on your framing. What are they using for the headers?
You do have code there, right? If the inspector says it's ok, that's all that matter, I just haven't seen anything quite like it in an area with permits. I have seen it done in some rural areas here where there is no code, and I've had to replace them when they saged and the door wouldn't open.
Thanks,
Eddie
You do have code there, right? If the inspector says it's ok, that's all that matter, I just haven't seen anything quite like it in an area with permits. I have seen it done in some rural areas here where there is no code, and I've had to replace them when they saged and the door wouldn't open.
Thanks,
Eddie
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Exactly.
In my experience, a 4x4 isn't code for a header. I wasn't sure if it was that or two 2x4's. Either way, it's only something I've seen in very old homes, or those done by people in areas without code.
I know in the Bay Area where I'm from, they are using Glue Lams in some homes for headers. I think that's overkill for openings 3 to 4 feet wide, but every area has there minimums. For a doorway or small window, I use two 2x6's with half inch plywood sandwiched between them. For larger openings, I go up in size to even bigger lumber.
I don't know how wide your picture windows are, but it looks like you have a 4x4 with a 2x4 on the bottom for a header. I'd have gone with a pair of 2x8's with half inch plywood there at a minimum.
Again, if it's code in your area, and your inspector passes it, than you should be fine. It's very rare for code to not be up to the minimums. I also don't know how your roof is designed or how much load you will have on those headers. It's just something that jumps out at me when I see the pictures. It's either wrong, or it's done in a way that I don't understand. Either way, it's interesting to me.
Thanks,
Eddie
In my experience, a 4x4 isn't code for a header. I wasn't sure if it was that or two 2x4's. Either way, it's only something I've seen in very old homes, or those done by people in areas without code.
I know in the Bay Area where I'm from, they are using Glue Lams in some homes for headers. I think that's overkill for openings 3 to 4 feet wide, but every area has there minimums. For a doorway or small window, I use two 2x6's with half inch plywood sandwiched between them. For larger openings, I go up in size to even bigger lumber.
I don't know how wide your picture windows are, but it looks like you have a 4x4 with a 2x4 on the bottom for a header. I'd have gone with a pair of 2x8's with half inch plywood there at a minimum.
Again, if it's code in your area, and your inspector passes it, than you should be fine. It's very rare for code to not be up to the minimums. I also don't know how your roof is designed or how much load you will have on those headers. It's just something that jumps out at me when I see the pictures. It's either wrong, or it's done in a way that I don't understand. Either way, it's interesting to me.
Thanks,
Eddie
_RaT_
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socallly said:
The rule of thumb which was a weak rule to begin with said basically a 4X4 could span 4', a 4X6 6' etc. I agree with Eddy, I want a minimum of a 6" header. Many larger headers today have abandoned dimensional lumber in favor of LVL or laminated veneer lumber. Far, far superior to dimensional lumber. Be sure your garage door header which will probably be over 16' long is LVL. Large sliding or french doors should get them as well.
The house will be shear paneled all around that should help with the load.There are 4x6 headers in the front picture windows and the french doors in the back. The blue prints have the stamp of a approval from (san bernardino county) so I think it should be ok.I will try to shrink down a copy of the framing plan for everyone to see.
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_RaT_
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Southern California is no slouch on the code. Their electrical code was one of the toughest around. Judging from the anchors, your shear panels at the garage, you have an engineered plan to be sure. I suspect you will also have some shear interaction at the header.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I agree with Rat. You are in an area of the country with very tough building codes, and since it's aproved, I have no worries that it will be very well built. Right now, I'd guess the California and Florida are the two places in the country with the toughest codes and the best built homes. I know this is debateable and on a case by case basis, we can find examples to prove me wrong, but overall, statewide, I'm probably correct.
I do find it odd and hopefully a few of the engineers on here will help me to understand how this works. My understanding of shear loads has very little to do with compressive loads. The header is to support the load of the roof, and the greater the span, the stronger the header has to be. It's not something you need to worry about. I have allot of respect for the engineers stamp and don't question it at all. They know the entire equation and how it all ties together. I'm just focuses on one little aspect of your framing and missing out on the big picture, which leads to my lack of understanding.
I do like the look of your home in the drawings allot. It's going to be a very nice home with excellent balance and detail.
Eddie
I do find it odd and hopefully a few of the engineers on here will help me to understand how this works. My understanding of shear loads has very little to do with compressive loads. The header is to support the load of the roof, and the greater the span, the stronger the header has to be. It's not something you need to worry about. I have allot of respect for the engineers stamp and don't question it at all. They know the entire equation and how it all ties together. I'm just focuses on one little aspect of your framing and missing out on the big picture, which leads to my lack of understanding.
I do like the look of your home in the drawings allot. It's going to be a very nice home with excellent balance and detail.
Eddie
RobJ
Elite Member
_RaT_ said:
And if it's just 1 4x4 that's weaker than 2 2x4's with the ply in the middle.
But I love watching a house go up. I did our weekend place. I'm like Eddie and built in the countrym no codes at all, only the septic to sort of deal with.
Take plenty of pictures, you only one shot!!
Elkhart House Project The one I built.
_RaT_
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RobJ said:And if it's just 1 4x4 that's weaker than 2 2x4's with the ply in the middle.
But I love watching a house go up. I did our weekend place. I'm like Eddie and built in the countrym no codes at all, only the septic to sort of deal with.
Take plenty of pictures, you only one shot!!
Elkhart House Project The one I built.
I've pretty much resorted to LVL's for my headers, at least for anything over 8'.
