building a new house
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midlf
Platinum Member
dfkrug said:
Utilities are not covered by the NEC (National Electrical Code), they are covered by the NESC (National Electrical Safety Code). As with the NEC the NESC must be adopted by the state, and as with the NEC it is adopted by a state with modifications, exceptions and additions.
saltman
Silver Member
Can you tell me about your house plans and who you used to draw them up. I am getting the run around down here in San Diego County. I have guys, Architects who want to charge me a percentage of constuction cost, guys who want to change my plans simply to meet their likes (or what they have drawn recently) Basicly I have been dealing with a bunch of clowns who have been living fat because of the constuction boom/ fire rebuilds.
Thanks
ps do you have a photo of what the house will look like??
Thanks
ps do you have a photo of what the house will look like??
ktm250rider said:
It is not colored glue it is colored cleaner. In my state you must use a cleaner before applying the adhesive. The coloring is so the inspector can tell you haven't taken any short cuts.
I built my house about 15 years ago. It's very difficult to get everything right on your first house. There are just to many things to learn but you can make a very good house.
Go slowly and research each area before you attempt it. For instance if you're doing a roof know your materials and how to do each aspect of it, underlayment for example. Get a good building supply place and find someone who knows materials and applications not just a salesman. Don't be afraid to ask around. If you tell a supply house you're doing a house and you'll work with them you might be able to get a discount on materials if you buy 90% from them. Also don't be afraid to contract out a specific job you feel is beyond your ability. You may be able to lay out most of the electric and have an electrician do the code stuff. Ask around and if they will work with you.
Fine homebuilding used to sell books showing each aspect of a building and how each material meets and fits.
Go to sites that are doing new construction and just watch from the road for awhile, you'll pick up some pointers and ideas from just watching. You might even try working for a couple of days for a builder or framer. You might want to take a short course in a trade school or night classes.
On my house I did everything but the concrete foundation. That's plumbing and electric too. I changed the cosmetics of the house and moved non-load bearing walls to suit my needs. When in doubt I called the inspector to ask if something I was doing was acceptable. I live in a rural area so it was easier than SOCA but you still may be able to find fair inspectors. The first thing I told them was that I wanted to do the house right and wasn't looking to buck them, cut corners or avoid code. That made a difference with my first inspector and he actually worked on my behalf when the concrete people tried to cut a corner on me.
Break up your house into steps as much as possible, electric, plumbing, framing roofing, etc. So each becomes more of a small job. This will give you a satisfied feeling too.
When you first start an area do the first applications where they will be seen the least. I started my siding on the back of the house and worked to the front. By the time I got there I was doing better , cleaner work. I did the same thing with my brick work.
Good luck, it's tough but it's doable. Hey I did it!
Rob-D
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Rob-D said:
Just to clarify my earlier post and to disagree with Rob here just a little. PVC pipe has been around long enough to know what works and what doesn't. Primer is very important to making the glue work. I'm guessing the color purple is to prove it's been applied, but I don't know that for a fact. I do know that it's very important to use the purple primer, which he did. That was obvious in the pictures.
Glue comes in different colors and does different things. Orange is for CPVC. Then there are the other colors and I'm not sure which is for what. One is called a "Hot" glue and it dries very fast and is used for wet conditions when water is flowing through the pipe. Sometimes you just can't stop the water from flowing. Another is tempature related. Extreme cold will affect the drying of the glue, so it's used in those conditions.
The do the job, but because of there other features, they do not seal and bond as well as the clear glue. This comes from my water department who consider it very important that there customers don't have leaky pipes. They spend allot of time researching this and have more knowledge of it than I do. They said that clear glue is the only glue that they know of that won't fail.
It's just as simple as that. Since he used blue, I asked if there was a reason for doing so. He didn't have a reason and I'm guessing just grabbed a can of glue at the store and used it.
He passed inpsection, so it's not something I'd worry about. I mainly brought it up to see if he had a reason to use the blue stuff that I wasn't aware of. Code in his area or something like that. I elaborated on it afterwards so others who read this thread might consider using clear glue for there projects, or at least researching the different colors available.
I hope this helps,
Eddie
dfkrug
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midlf said:
I have never heard that about NESC. When the power company showed
me their rule book (and sent me copies of relevant pages) there were
clear differences with NEC and no mention of other standards or codes.
They do not have to get permits or inspections either. An installer
can do what he can to follow pertinent codes but if PG&E does not like
it, redo it. It has happened to me a couple of times.
In CA, we have the California Bldg Code, a modified version of the UBC,
but local juridictions often have many exceptions and additions. I do
not know what the current status here is re the new "universal"
code (combo of UBC, CABO, and SBC).
dfkrug
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saltman said:
AIA Architects often charge 10-20% of cost of construction. That means
you can easily pay $20,000 for plans for a modest house in CA. Engg
calcs may be an additional $5K-10K cuz architects in CA often out-source
structural analysis. The additional liability ins of doing structural calcs
keeps many architects from doing this part.
I suggest you hire a "building designer", an unlicensed entity who does
only residential houses and additions of 2 stories and less. They often
have more experience doing houses since architects charge so much.
Still, don't be surprised at $5K-6K for a set of plans for a 2500sf house.
Engg is additional.
Still better is buy a set of standard plans and modify them. Or don't
change them at all for best efficiency. You will still need to have
local structural design and calc for foundation.
For my house, I hired a draftsman who used AutoCAD so changes
were easy AND he would draw MY design. He could also import my
AutoCAD survey data (topos) for doing my site plan and grading plan.
My $.02 Good luck.....you will need it.
saltman
Silver Member
Can you post a photo of what the finished house will look like??
Well it's a slow go as the holiday strikes again.I have been so busy in all aspects of life,I did backfill the trenches,got all of the rebar footing done and the wire mesh laid and tied.Camping this weekend will delay it even further but I need alittle R&R.Here are some more pics
midlf
Platinum Member
dfkrug said:
Correct - most utilities set up their service rules, standard practices and standards manuals to follow, at least, the codes that apply. Usually this code is the NESC as adopted and amended by the state. Many times aspects of the utility rules and standards may be stricter than the codes. As these rules and standards are usually filed with and accepted by the state's utility regulating body/board they have the force of the code. Agree that they do not have to have inspections. That is one of the advantages of having Professional Engineers on staff to oversee operations. Around here (WI) all engineering orders, prints, standards and such can be traced to a PE's signature or stamp. Note that my comments only apply to investor owned public utilities. Sometimes the munis, Federal Power Assc, and some other types of REA's may have some other codes they follow, usually based on federal oversight.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
socallly,
I'm a little overwhelmed by the size of your footings. WOW!! How wide and deep are they? I know snow isn't an issue for you, is it because of earthquakes? Those are massive!!!!!
Eddie
I'm a little overwhelmed by the size of your footings. WOW!! How wide and deep are they? I know snow isn't an issue for you, is it because of earthquakes? Those are massive!!!!!
Eddie
dfkrug
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midlf said:
You are saying some utilities use FEDERAL codes?! Dealing with the
state is bad enough. Sounds like you have had to deal with some
electrical utilites yourself.
I do not object to following the codes....if I can find out what they are!
I can read the NEC and quote chapter and verse to an inspector when
there is a disagreement. But numerous sections are subject to intepretation.
I am glad I am not doing that anymore.....
Eddie, They are 18inches deep and the grade beam in the garage is 24inches deep.The reason is because my architect over engineered my plans,He most of thought he was building a fire station or something thats what I get for not having the plans engineered.Live & learn live & learn.Also the county would not let me change the footing depth without resubmitting the plans and this would take 8-12 weeksEddieWalker said:
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
socallly,
Sounds like you got it coming and going. hahahaha At least you know it will never move on you!!!! Here we have the oposite problem. Very little code, no engineering and cracked slabs all the time. Given the choice, yours is the way to go, even if it costs a little more right now, it's cheaper than having a cracked slab, or a house that's moving on you.
When you pour, I'd love to know how many yards you use.
Thanks,
Eddie
Sounds like you got it coming and going. hahahaha At least you know it will never move on you!!!! Here we have the oposite problem. Very little code, no engineering and cracked slabs all the time. Given the choice, yours is the way to go, even if it costs a little more right now, it's cheaper than having a cracked slab, or a house that's moving on you.
When you pour, I'd love to know how many yards you use.
Thanks,
Eddie
midlf
Platinum Member
dfkrug said:
From the inside, 37 years and counting.
