Branson 4520 rescue project!

K5lwq · Feb 13, 2021

I did a quick check before I started to verify it had some in it. I did not wipe the stick so definitely had to been over full. I wiped today and noticed where the marks where on the stick. Rechecked and sitting right on full.

I could not tell where it was leaking from but was running off the injector pump by the stop solenoid. Today I took a video trying to locate it and was not leaking at all. It will show up again I am sure. Till I get it to hold and circulate water I can not run it long at a time.

Slowpoke Slim · Feb 13, 2021

K5lwq said:
Not a lot to report. I put antifreeze in and it just ran out the bottom radiator hose. There is a hole on the bottom of the hose so I will order new hoses for it.

It is 27F here today but the tractor fired right up? :laughing:

It leaked what looks like a gallon of oil the last time I ran it and what dripped out over the week. Made a good mess for me to clean this morning. The strange thing is it now is showing full on the dip stick and the leak appears to have stopped. Only thing I can think is the oil is thicker because of low temperature but as fast as it was pouring out I would not have thought that would matter.

I will order the hoses and try again next weekend if they will show up in time.

BTW, we are supposed to get quite a bit of snow this week and a low close to or below 0F. I think Mr Slim has been talking to the good Lord about sending me his weather for me joking with him about the snowblower!

Fortunately, I don't have that kind of pull with The Big Man.

You may have to buy a snow blower and I'll come down there to use it. We still don't have any snow here. Supposed to warm up to above freezing by the end of next week. Highs have been below zero for a few days in a row now. Still, no snow. Crazy year for us up here.

Are you pretty sure what was leaking was oil? Wasn't dirty fuel? Too bad you found the hose leak after putting in the antifreeze. That's usually how I find things too.

:laughing:

Good luck and stay strong.

K5lwq · Feb 13, 2021

Yes Slim I am sure it is oil. When I can get it up to temperature I am sure it will reappear. As far as the antifreeze I put very little in and looked for leaks so did not waste much.

The unfortunate thing is the parts manual does not cover the radiator or hoses. I will have to remove and go on the search for something close. I will call Big Tex just to make sure they don't have a number for it first though.

K5lwq · Feb 21, 2021

They wiring on this thing is jacked up! The problems are related to bad connections pretty much everywhere. Unfortunately someone trying to sort through it cut wires and bypassed the fuse panel. The only thing that works with the key switch is the fuel pump. It would be easier to rip everything out and get a new wiring harness. But that is not very practical.

I really need a good wiring diagram for this tractor. The closest one I have found in in the older 20-10 series service manual. But this one is not quite correct in that it is for the A series engines not the Yanmar. The wire colors are not matching up so it is extremely difficult to determine what wire is what.

I found the fuel shut off relay that is tied to another relay that I have not been able to trace yet. I can use a jumper wire to energize the fuel shut off relay and it will energize the cut off solenoid. I don't know which fuse is which but have managed to get power through the first 5 fuses. The other 5 have still have no power to the fuse block.

Now the plan will be to power up one fuse at a time till I find the correct circuits. But that will have to wait to next weekend.

LouNY · Feb 21, 2021

That will be a handfull fixing a chopped up wiring harness.

Branson Bob · Feb 22, 2021

K5lwq said:
They wiring on this thing is jacked up! The problems are related to bad connections pretty much everywhere. Unfortunately someone trying to sort through it cut wires and bypassed the fuse panel. The only thing that works with the key switch is the fuel pump. It would be easier to rip everything out and get a new wiring harness. But that is not very practical.

I really need a good wiring diagram for this tractor. The closest one I have found in in the older 20-10 series service manual. But this one is not quite correct in that it is for the A series engines not the Yanmar. The wire colors are not matching up so it is extremely difficult to determine what wire is what.

I found the fuel shut off relay that is tied to another relay that I have not been able to trace yet. I can use a jumper wire to energize the fuel shut off relay and it will energize the cut off solenoid. I don't know which fuse is which but have managed to get power through the first 5 fuses. The other 5 have still have no power to the fuse block.

Now the plan will be to power up one fuse at a time till I find the correct circuits. But that will have to wait to next weekend.

It's hard to imagine a tractor that has had so much poor work done on it in a relatively short period of time... it's almost like sabotage.

My thoughts and prayers!

K5lwq · Feb 22, 2021

Thanks Bob! My theory is that this tractor was a victim of a flood. Maybe one of the hurricanes that hit over the past few years. The connectors and relays are corroded and very difficult to separate. The emergency flasher is fuse 8 and something shorted causing it to burn the wire out of the fuse block. That wire was exposed and still hot! Luckily it was not against any metal or this project along with my shop could have gone up in smoke. :shocked:

K5lwq · Feb 22, 2021

LouNY said:
That will be a handfull fixing a chopped up wiring harness.

Yes Sir Lou it will be a handful for sure. I am thinking about just getting an aftermarket fuse block and starting over. I will take the wiring diagram and notate the changes and correct the wire color as I sort through this. I will give that to the new owner when it goes.

Slowpoke Slim · Feb 22, 2021

It has been many years since I stopped building and restoring cars. But back in the day, you could get an almost "turn key" wiring kit from a 3rd party, I believe they were called "painless" something or other? I'll see if I can look them up. But they had several levels of wiring kits from very basic to full on loaded accessory kits.

Let me do some looking...

Company link:

Painless Wiring

They do a lot of specific application stuff now. You used to be able to buy a very basic kit also, I put them in a few drag cars, very basic, lights, brakes, key switch, etc all with a premade fuse block and pigtail.

May have to call them to get the "basic kit" figured out.

It really used to be a time saver when you had one that was complete toast.

K5lwq · Feb 22, 2021

Thanks Slim, I will reach out to them!

EddieWalker · Feb 22, 2021

Interesting thread. I have a 2003 Century tractor that is similar to your Branson, but just a little smaller at 37 hp, and in a little better shape. I'm appreciating your repairs and just here to follow your progress.

K5lwq · Feb 22, 2021

Welcome to the party Eddie! My shop is in Lindale so come play anytime you want. :laughing:

You actually might be able to help me with determining the circuits. Would you mind taking a picture of your fuse block and if you have the cover that identifies each fuse? That would be cool! I am betting they will be the same.

EddieWalker · Feb 23, 2021

Couple of years ago I struggled to get my tractor to start. It was always something different, but always electrical. I spent a full year chasing gremlins, and it was never reliable. I never knew if I could get it started or not. One day I had enough and I removed every wire on the tractor and installed a new key and switch. I ran new wire to the starter and alternator. I installed a push button to warm up the injectors that I push in for five to ten seconds before starting it. And I installed a manual choke cable to turn off my injector pump so it will stop running. Since I did this, it starts up better then it ever did when brand new. I also think that I have more power, but that might just be from my excitement of being able to use it again, any time that I want!!!

I'll have to look to see if I left the original fuse box in there. I bought a new one for just a couple of fuses that I need and I don't remember what I did with the original fuse block.

I was in Lindale Lowes on Saturday. I'm actually next to Winona and prefer to shop in Lindale over Tyler.

K5lwq · Feb 23, 2021

Appreciate it Eddie!

ptsg · Feb 23, 2021

As long as you don't fry the ECM by crossing the wrong wires, everything will be fine.

K5lwq · Feb 23, 2021

ptsg said:
As long as you don't fry the ECM by crossing the wrong wires, everything will be fine.

Well let's not do that then! :thumbsup:

K5lwq · Feb 28, 2021

Couple of updates.

I found some universal radiator hoses locally and replaced the thermostat while I was at it.

I put some more antifreeze in and found a few more leaks. Radiator leaks, water pump leaks and several freeze plugs leak. Someone tried to replace one of the freeze plugs with a expansion plug but they had the wrong size and could not get it all the way in.

I will order some 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" expansion plugs to get it going for now.

I traced the wiring and found the neutral switch was the problem. But now because some wires were cut off of the fuse block I had to add another one. Sure is easier to test things before cutting wires.

One of the cut wires was for the fuel shut off solenoid. They used this for the fuel pump so that is why the solenoid would not energize.

After working the shuttle Shift a few times the neutral switch started working again. It will now start and stop with the switch key and all safety switches are now operational.

I will need to get a new fuel filter as the one I got from my dealer is the wrong one. It is to small.

A little progress on a long journey to get this thing back to life!

ptsg · Feb 28, 2021

That thing had indeed a rough life. But you'll get it working in top notch shape!

Hopefully nothing bad will show up on the engine, once you can get things up to temperature.