Best way to level a large area?

[paulsharvey]

Compaction topic, it's not settling that is an issue, it's uneven settlement that is the issue. So, yeah, compact it, but once we are down to the last inch, or so, if we have 5% settlement, that's like 1/8th inch, ie insignificant. When we are talking about a 8" fill; that starts to matter.

Point being, if we get everything to +/- 3" with a machine, and even that +/- 3" to +/- 1" with clean sand; i wouldn't sweat the compaction of the sand too much.

Edit; i guess the part I'm assuming, but I should say, we aren't talking +3" along on entire side, and -3" on the entire side; then spreading sand...

 

[YoungMark]

Keep in mind that any fill, whatever you use, should be firmly compacted - each cubic yard of water (in other words that's a square yard at 36" depth) in the pool weights 3/4 of a ton...

 

[jim_wilson]

Yeah I do have a laser level. Maybe building up instead of cutting down is the better way. I am all ears for sure.

People aren't going to want to hear this on a tractor forum - but without having some serious $$ tools like one of those laser driven blade leveling devices you see on huge construction sites - you're going to have a really hard time getting the level within +/- 1" ..... with the tractor.

Being able to build up at least a few inches - is going to make the job easier - especially if it's using some material that's easily levelable - like sand or rock dust or something like that.

When I did my back yard over - I wanted to make it as level as I possibly could - I figured it would be a good place for kids to play , would make it easier to mow - etc. Well when I tried to get it really level like I wanted - using the tractor - it just wasnt' working. The problem is that without the tractor actually already being level - when I tried to use the bucket to level things out - it's just moving around with the tractor - if the tractor's going over uneven or non-level ground.

So here's the part nobody a tractor forum will like:

I just ended up getting an 8ft 2x4 - and a 6ft level - and getting down on my hands and knees and leveling it out that way - by building up a few inches (it was dry topsoil so it was relatively easy).

I just coudn't figure out any other way to get to where I wanted to go - that didn't involve just going back and forth over the area incessantly with the tractor.

 

[AndrewT]

once you have it to within a few inches of the desired grade, find a 10-14 foot chunk of I beam or C channel to do your final level with it. A chain on each end going to the tractor 3 point, drag it on it's side and it will grade and fill all the last lumps and bumps. One of our neighbours does his driveway every year with a 10' section of 8" x 8". It takes him 2 passes and he's done.

 

[neilpaku]

For within one inch, I've basically treated it like I'm screeding concrete. Set out forms to your desired elevation and then use a screed board to identify low and high spots and cut and fill as needed. A bit laborious but if you want it within an inch, you have to take those sorts of measures

 

[JeepHead]

People aren't going to want to hear this on a tractor forum - but without having some serious $$ tools like one of those laser driven blade leveling devices you see on huge construction sites - you're going to have a really hard time getting the level within +/- 1" ..... with the tractor.

Being able to build up at least a few inches - is going to make the job easier - especially if it's using some material that's easily levelable - like sand or rock dust or something like that.

When I did my back yard over - I wanted to make it as level as I possibly could - I figured it would be a good place for kids to play , would make it easier to mow - etc. Well when I tried to get it really level like I wanted - using the tractor - it just wasnt' working. The problem is that without the tractor actually already being level - when I tried to use the bucket to level things out - it's just moving around with the tractor - if the tractor's going over uneven or non-level ground.

So here's the part nobody a tractor forum will like:

I just ended up getting an 8ft 2x4 - and a 6ft level - and getting down on my hands and knees and leveling it out that way - by building up a few inches (it was dry topsoil so it was relatively easy).

I just coudn't figure out any other way to get to where I wanted to go - that didn't involve just going back and forth over the area incessantly with the tractor.

I have a $5,000 commercial grade laser transit for leveling. We got hooked up with a good contractor and they're coming next week to install the pool for a great cost of $2K. Said they will show up with 5 guys and be filling the pool when they leave. Very experienced outfit who told me things about the install that I didn't know.

 

[2manyrocks]

I have a $5,000 commercial grade laser transit for leveling. We got hooked up with a good contractor and they're coming next week to install the pool for a great cost of $2K. Said they will show up with 5 guys and be filling the pool when they leave. Very experienced outfit who told me things about the install that I didn't know.

Please give us a report of how your contractor levels the site so we can compare it to the suggestions offered in this thread.

 

[JeepHead]

Please give us a report of how your contractor levels the site so we can compare it to the suggestions offered in this thread.

What the contractor said they do is level each of the buttress, then they make the legs on the round ends to the same height, and then grade out the middle area by hand using a large rake. He said the inner doesn't need to be exact, just the perimeter obviously. He said they also use blocking under each buttress and not just the legs around the round ends. The pool instructions say to use blocking under the round end legs, but nothing about using them under the buttresses, where as the installer says he prefers to use them under everything.

 

[2manyrocks]

I can see why he'd hand rake, but what does he do about compaction and possible settling?

 

[LXT]

I just did my above ground pool last year - I did the grading (yes to 1 inch actually out 1/2 at the most), electrical, pool bonding, etc.. everything except build the pool.

The guys from pool city came to check my grading & were impressed to the point of recommending me for a few jobs. when they saw I did this with a Magnatrac they couldn't believe it, all I had was an old fashion bucket level rod with a homemade ground leveler - filled the bucket with dirt, placed it on the ground leveler, clamped it up, dropped the bucket so the leveling rod showed the same site line from start to finish & went about my business.

only thing that messes this system up is large rocks or buried bricks - which id jump out & remove them. I used the magnatrack bucket to get the over burden off & the grade roughed in before using the leveler. nice thing about a track machine is that you start in the middle & just spin the machine - the tracks will basically bore a round starting pad, I just put a level on my machine and would spin N to S & E to W until semi level, rough grade to that & then as stated above.

Hit multiple spots around the edge & the center with the laser level & I was spot on with very little hand work. what you mentioned is about the going rate where I live $850 to $1500 to level an above ground pool pad. Glad you're getting it done - the family will enjoy it, 2K compared to the maintenance & chemicals im told is cheap. LOL

 

[paulsharvey]

I'll stand by this statement; I'd rather grade and level 3 pool pads, than install a single semi rigid steel ring, upright parts, liner, and cooping.

 

[JeepHead]

I just did my above ground pool last year - I did the grading (yes to 1 inch actually out 1/2 at the most), electrical, pool bonding, etc.. everything except build the pool.

The guys from pool city came to check my grading & were impressed to the point of recommending me for a few jobs. when they saw I did this with a Magnatrac they couldn't believe it, all I had was an old fashion bucket level rod with a homemade ground leveler - filled the bucket with dirt, placed it on the ground leveler, clamped it up, dropped the bucket so the leveling rod showed the same site line from start to finish & went about my business.

only thing that messes this system up is large rocks or buried bricks - which id jump out & remove them. I used the magnatrack bucket to get the over burden off & the grade roughed in before using the leveler. nice thing about a track machine is that you start in the middle & just spin the machine - the tracks will basically bore a round starting pad, I just put a level on my machine and would spin N to S & E to W until semi level, rough grade to that & then as stated above.

Hit multiple spots around the edge & the center with the laser level & I was spot on with very little hand work. what you mentioned is about the going rate where I live $850 to $1500 to level an above ground pool pad. Glad you're getting it done - the family will enjoy it, 2K compared to the maintenance & chemicals im told is cheap. LOL

The 2K is the full install, erecting the pool and final leveling. They said they will also hook up the pump/filter and have the pool filling when they leave. I forgot to mention to them I intended to put a bottom drain in so I am digging that out this week and plumbing it. I am an electrician and converted my shop over to a 100 amp service a couple months ago in anticipation of the pool install this spring. All I need to do now is run an outlet out to the pool which is no big deal. Yes, it's a huge relief to be having it done. Trying to do this sorta job by yourself is not very easy. And I have a huge "honey-do" list already. The girlfriend is wanting me to lime wash our brick home to either an off-white or a grey, remove the white pillars on the front porch and replace with cedar trees as posts, and then add on cedar railing, as well as all new shutters.... This of course, is after I build the pool deck. My work never ends.....

 

[2manyrocks]

Natural brick is about as maintenance free and durable as it gets.

 

[JeepHead]

Natural brick is about as maintenance free and durable as it gets.

Oh I agree but she doesn't like the color and wants the house to have a more modernized appearance. She wants a different look all together.

 

[2manyrocks]

I've done a few remodels, maybe more than my share, over the years. What strikes me is today's trends are to rip out the updates that were popular in the 80s and 90s. I don't know if it will be 10, 15, or 20 years when people remodel today's remodels to whatever will be popular next.

The last house I redid had nearly perfectly preserved 1960s kitchen cabinets, trim and doors. Had to find a 1960's vintage double oven stove to match and lucked into one at an estate sale. Beautiful oak floors....was like a time machine when finished. The bathroom was a total do over because they had wrecked the bath for some reason even though the rest of the house was well preserved. Go figure.

 

[JeepHead]

I've done a few remodels, maybe more than my share, over the years. What strikes me is today's trends are to rip out the updates that were popular in the 80s and 90s. I don't know if it will be 10, 15, or 20 years when people remodel today's remodels to whatever will be popular next.

The last house I redid had nearly perfectly preserved 1960s kitchen cabinets, trim and doors. Had to find a 1960's vintage double oven stove to match and lucked into one at an estate sale. Beautiful oak floors....was like a time machine when finished. The bathroom was a total do over because they had wrecked the bath for some reason even though the rest of the house was well preserved. Go figure.

Oh I hear you. My home was built in the 60's but fully remodeled right before we bought it two years ago. The only thing left original is the hardwood floors (they were refinished and very stunning) and the original massive brick fireplace. It's the centerpiece of our living/dining/kitchen area. The original cabinets were moved to my garage and hung out there but I tore them all off and burnt them. I should have sold them as they were all solid wood cabinets, but I was too busy to fool with it. I like old architecture though.

 

[ning]

Oh I agree but she doesn't like the color and wants the house to have a more modernized appearance. She wants a different look all together.

There will be regrets. Not tomorrow, but they will come...
Not as bad as paint for sure but still
If it were me, I'd move that down on the honey-do list until it's either completely unavoidable or she decides otherwise; those "modernized" looks are on their way out.

 

[JeepHead]

There will be regrets. Not tomorrow, but they will come...
Not as bad as paint for sure but still
If it were me, I'd move that down on the honey-do list until it's either completely unavoidable or she decides otherwise; those "modernized" looks are on their way out.

It's reversible and I own a power washing business so this is is what I do. But the modernized look is very much still in around here.

 

[2manyrocks]

Well, on the opposite extreme, on the way back from town this afternoon I happened to notice a Cat excavator sitting in the middle of what used to be a late 1800s two story white wood sided farmhouse. What I remember was a nice front porch extending the length of the front with two large stone chimneys sitting at each end. Hasn't been a fire that a know of. Just looks like the owner demolished it perhaps to rebuild a new home.

One of the local historians told me that it had been custom built by the first owner as a gift to his bride to be....but they never married.

 

[Flogger]

My nephew is in the process of restoring the 1400 sq ft brick home on a full basement that my great grandfather built in 1917. It involves removing most of the modernizations done through the years and opening up the 2 story porches that had been enclosed on the front. It seems to me to be be a gargantuan task but he is a do it guy and I’m just dumb enough to hang around and help!!