Best Chainsaw Sharpener under $300

[dodge man]

I use a file that has a guide and then a separate file for the rakers. I usually file after each tank of fuel or sometimes every 2nd tank. I’m not sure how long it takes me but about 5 minutes on an 18 inch bar. I have a portable dremel style that hooks up to a 12 volt battery but only use it on a really dull chain.

 

[John_Mc]

I sharpen with an Oregon grinder; it does a great job; I kicked my POS HF grinder under my bench long ago! If needed I'd buy the Oregon grinder again.

Did I mention that the HF grinder is a POS?

DSR

The HF grinder is worth what you pay for it - in other words, not much. WAY too much flex in that setup.

I have used one of the Oregon grinders, and found it to work well. I've heard great things about some other brands, but never used one.

All of my sharpening is by hand filing these days. I just like the results better than with a grinder. I also appreciate the fact that it forces me to stop and take a break. I often don;t notice when I'm getting tired, thirsty, or hungry when I'm in the middle of working. However, I will notice an even slightly dull chain immediately. When I stop to sharpen, I also notice all of the other things I need to take care of.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The HF grinder is worth what you pay for it - in other words, not much. WAY too much flex in that setup.

And it can't be set to do rakers, at least mine can't be. Like I said, it's a POS that's been kicked under my bench!

SR

 

[frcnLS]

I have been using the Grandberg hand sharpener (on the bar type) for years. They also sell a 12 volt model that uses stone burrs. I learned long ago from a pro-saw competitor that if you cut all the teeth to the same length it makes them the same height. When they are the same height and the rakers are properly filed, the saw cuts like it has a new chain on it.
When a chain needs a full sharpening (not just a field touch up), I measure the length of all the teeth with a dial (or digital) caliper and sharpen the shortest one I find and mark it with a sharpie. Then I then sharpen all the rest of the teeth to the same length. If need be I also use a small stone or fine file to remove all the burrs.
I admit that if you have a lot of chains to sharpen at once that is not a viable choice. But if you are getting an off-the-bar sharpener, get a good one and learn to use it. I took a chain for a 30"+(can't remember the exact length) to a local shop and they sharpened it on a machine. It was a mess- burrs and uneven. I would have been better off throwing it away and buying a new chain.

 

[5030]

Most saw shops cut way too much tooth off to begin with 'cause they want to sell you a new chain. My sop is a new loop twice equals a new bar and drive sprocket as well.

 

[4570Man]

My issue with ALL chain grinders is. they remove too much of the tooth which is ok if the tooth is really dull or chipped but for touching up a chain that isn't buggered up, filing is the only way to go.

Being inherently cheap, I don't need to grind away excessive amounts of tooth if not needed. Besides, learning how to file a chain properly is a good skill to learn. Kind of similar to off hand sharpening twist drills or TIG welding.

You can set the grinder to remove as little metal as you want. Just because it’s a grinder doesn’t mean it has to be aggressive.

 

[edmoor]

Looking to sharpen 5-6 chains at a time off the saw.

What would you recommend?

Invest in an Oregon chain grinder..not that expensive..I have wore one out..bought a new one 3 years ago..don't fall for the clamp on filers..they are junk. Learn to use the Oregon grinder..do a good job..save you lots of money. Been grinding chains now for 42 years. No customers ever complain of my grinding job. Key..is don't let the chain get so dull it's sometimes not worth sharpening..see this often.

 

[edmoor]

You can set the grinder to remove as little metal as you want. Just because it’s a grinder doesn’t mean it has to be aggressive.

Correct..even if you file a chain..if you don't start with the dullest link first..your wasting your time. This is why some shops remove a lot..got to get the chain back in balance..or other teeth just rub and burn.

 

[Martin Roper]

Looking to sharpen 5-6 chains at a time off the saw.

What would you recommend?

Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener, not expensive and easy to do a good job, why bother taking the chain off until it needs replacing?

 

[grsthegreat]

I like taking chain off, that way i can clean all junk out with compressed air. Man, those things collect lots of crap from the oil.but searously, takes maybe a minute to remove chain.

 

[beenthere]

Looking to sharpen 5-6 chains at a time off the saw.

What would you recommend?

Sharpen by hand file and get the best for the least $$

 

[4570Man]

I’d like the see all of these hand file users line up their hand filed saws against the same saw with a new factory chain. I’m sure someone is going to say they they can sharpen not only that good but better. Well some people can bench 500 pounds but the average Joe can’t. I’ve watched a lot of people chainsaw and the vast majority of the hand filers are running dull saws. I would bet money that the number of users that could hand file a saw and make it cut good without a guide is in the single digit percentage.

 

[stumblinhorse]

I’d like the see all of these hand file users line up their hand filed saws against the same saw with a new factory chain. I’m sure someone is going to say they they can sharpen not only that good but better. Well some people can bench 500 pounds but the average Joe can’t. I’ve watched a lot of people chainsaw and the vast majority of the hand filers are running dull saws. I would bet money that the number of users that could hand file a saw and make it cut good without a guide is in the single digit percentage.

The STIHL 2 in 1 is cheating then. It works without any thought at all. It is like $35. I have a RM chain that has been sharpened with the 2 in 1 about 25 times and it cuts like new. I sharpen after each cord. I burn about 15 cords a year.

 

[stso9d]

Looking to sharpen 5-6 chains at a time off the saw.

What would you recommend?i always use a rat tail file. I also try to keep the chain out of the dirt. Dirt dulls them quickly…

 

[John_Mc]

I’d like the see all of these hand file users line up their hand filed saws against the same saw with a new factory chain. I’m sure someone is going to say they they can sharpen not only that good but better. Well some people can bench 500 pounds but the average Joe can’t. I’ve watched a lot of people chainsaw and the vast majority of the hand filers are running dull saws. I would bet money that the number of users that could hand file a saw and make it cut good without a guide is in the single digit percentage.

Perhaps we should clarify our terms a bit. When I say "hand file", I mean I am not using a grinder. This could be filing using a gauge or guide or it could be using just a bare file and nothing else. I call that latter "free-hand filing" - using a file with no other guide.

I've said it on here before, but I've met easily more than a hundred people who think they do a great job free-hand filing. I've met just three who actually can do as good or better than a factory new chains when using nothing but a round file. (One was a pro logger, one was a retired machinist. I forget what background the other had). Sadly, I am not one of those people. Frankly, I've not seen any need to develop the free-hand skill. With a decent guide, and a moderate amount of practice, it's not hard to improve on a factory new chain, and get a chain that cuts smoothly and consistently

What some fail to realize is that there is more to sharpening a chain well than just making it more aggressive. I don't want to be fighting the saw all day. Also, cutting a bit faster doesn't do any good if the geometry of the chain is such that it won't hold up well. (this is especially especially noticeable when cutting the slow-grown hardwoods in our area.)

The two types of sharpening guides I've had good luck with (fast, easy to use, and get reliably good results):

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I've also used the Pferd Chainsharp CSX and the Stihl 2 in 1 (which is just a relabeled Pferd guide). They have an advantage that they are faster, since they set the depth gauge at the same time you are sharpening. The disadvantage is that their method of setting the depth guages is not progressive, requiring that you match the lengths of the cutters when sharpening for best performance. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to match the length of the cutters if you use a progressive tool for setting the depth gauges. (but that's a subject for another post - one which I have already made here on TBN several times).

 

[Raul-02]

Looking to sharpen 5-6 chains at a time off the saw.

What would you recommend?

Nothing faster or easier than this

 

[ArlyA]

I’d like the see all of these hand file users line up their hand filed saws against the same saw with a new factory chain. I’m sure someone is going to say they they can sharpen not only that good but better. Well some people can bench 500 pounds but the average Joe can’t. I’ve watched a lot of people chainsaw and the vast majority of the hand filers are running dull saws. I would bet money that the number of users that could hand file a saw and make it cut good without a guide is in the single digit percentage.

I am a professorial sawyer and sharpen via hand held file every day. No I can't do as nice as new but good enough to keep working without replacing the chain. If I really ding it bad I will change it out and have it pro ground. I go into the field with multiple files and etra sharp chains. Chips are your freind.

 

[5030]

You can set the grinder to remove as little metal as you want. Just because it’s a grinder doesn’t mean it has to be aggressive.

Depends on who is grinding them. You have them ground, you can bet they will remove a lot of tooth for the reasons I stated in post 45.

 

[5030]

My square cut skip tooth chipper has to be hand sharpened, no exceptions and considering the bar is 5 foot long, it's a lot of filing.

 

[Massey convert]

I love my HF sharpener. It does a better job than I've ever been able to do with a file. I don't believe it takes an excessive amount from the tooth, it takes very little with each motion. As far as I'm concerned, the chains I sharpen cut very close to as well as a new chain. I am somewhat surprised as to how many people have called it junk.