b7100 steering box advice needed

[rick sheltra]

First what a great forum!! I have read every thread (i think) on the steering box failures. Now after reading I have a few questions.
1. what exactly is sleaving? and can I do that or do I have to go to a machine shop?
2. I read where someone used b6100 assembly but I was wondering if I will have to modify for the b7100
3. If I just get it Sleaved and buy the other parts I want to make sure I get the right items the first time. The kubota diagram provided to me from messicks tractor shows the parts, however not real sure what to order yet.

history of tractor:
b7100 diesel with after market front end loader by Buehler
bought about 5 years ago for 5000. Has worked great so far. After reading all the problems with the steering on tractors that have loaders, I think I need to adjust my work accordingly and take it a little easier on the tractor. After all it is a subcompact which I probably operate as if it is a full size!

Steering was turning free so after reading everything I went ahead and took it apart. What I found was a steering shaft with serious nicks from bearing failure. when I removed the shaft completely i saw a lot of water floating in there and upon reaching to the bottom, found all the ball bearings and pieces of metal. I could see the races seem to be missing and I can see that the nut ball has some replaceable parts that were bent and allowed the bearings to come out.
So now I am looking to see if I can take the whole box off so i can thourouhly clean the inside from metal shavings. Apparently from all the great info on here the seals are short life and the gear oil 80w 0.02l gets full of water and everythoing disinegrates. I never even thought to check that. I will now!
any suggestions on where to buy parts would be most appreciated. According to several users of this forum Weavers is NOT a safe place to deal with. Messiccs is close so I will try them, and one post listed a UK site that seems real good...
sorry for the length of post trying to just go in the right direction since the company I used to work for decided to lay off anyone who made any money so I am unemployed. Appreciate any comments on this repair and thanks for letting me use this forum
Rick

 

[Baby Grand]

Rick,
Welcome to TBN and I expect you will soon have lots of advice from people here who know what they're talking about. I just want to thank you for your failure description as now i want to check our newly acquired B5100 (similar to B7100, but smaller) steering box for lube condition and smoothness/back lash.
Jim

 

[Egon]

Welcome::thumbsup::thumbsup:

In the pastI owned a B7100 with HST and FEL. The steering box was rebuilt three times in 3000 hours.

The box and steering colum are easy to remove.

From your description it might be wise to do a complete rebuild.

If you do a search you will find several threads on the B7100 gear box.

Parts may be pricy.:thumbsup:

 

[rick sheltra]

Thanks for the welcome to you both. I keep finding more info daily. If only I did a little preventive maintenance... I am sure this is going to be an expensive event. However even though the old tractor looks pretty bad she still fires up. That 3 cylinder kubota disel is a workhorse. I also need a new tie rod as it is bent. That is in stock at messicks....ill keep on lookin.
rick

 

[Egon]

Can the tie rod be persuaded by a hammer and anvil to straighten itself out.

 

[KubotainNH]

Power steering is great and saves wear and tear on the box.

 

[Dana Warner]

Using the stock steering box with a loader was tough. I too dumped the the steering box for power steering. Now even with a full bucket you can still steer with one finger. The steering column was interesting to make because of the dash. The power steering pump came from a Nissan Maxima. All I had to do was make a mount off the front cover, a new drive pulley and a idler to tension the belt.

 

[KubotainNH]

The power steering pump came from a Nissan Maxima.

Hmm, right now mine runs off the tractors hydraulics which isn't the best way to do it. I've been thinking of using a small foreign car pump but most do not have V-belt pulleys. Did you have to swap the pulley or did you look around until you found a V-belt one? I see on E-bay that older Toyota trucks have a V-belt.

 

[Egon]

For those looking for power steering the recirculating ball steering box from one of the old gm products would be easy bolt in.:thumbsup:

 

[Dana Warner]

I used a Nissan Maxima pump because of it's size. It used a ribbed belt. I removed the ribbed pulley on the lathe then welded a v pulley onto the hub.

 

[KubotainNH]

I used a Nissan Maxima pump because of it's size. It used a ribbed belt. I removed the ribbed pulley on the lathe then welded a v pulley onto the hub.

Ah, I guess I could weld a pulley on but I don't have access to a lathe. Good thought though.

 

[rick sheltra]

Can the tie rod be persuaded by a hammer and anvil to straighten itself out.

I am going to definately try and re straiten the tie rod when I get it out thanks

 

[rick sheltra]

Well here I go with the steering box project. I would love power steering but I dont think I can do it so I will try and repair or replace the bad parts...

As I posted before I took the shaft out and it has serious nicks. Sleaving might still be an option but I did find a vendor with the shaft and the comp nut ball for $135.... I will still need to find the races and the seals but I think messiks has that.

Now I am moving on to the steering box itself...
I took out the 4 bolts and the box is basically just sitting on the frame. My reason for wanting to remove the box was so I could put it in the parts cleaner and get the metal shavings out and other stray bearings.
I can not get the pitman arm off to remove the box. Looks like it might be pressed on there with a press ??? anyway I then went to the next nut at the other end of pitman arm and it will not come off the drag link bolt..it hits the frame. so it appears to me it is bent or more like twisted when I look from above. OK so now I have to proceed to the next connection which is the other end of the drag link which is bolted to the LH arm knuckle on the front wheel axle. I Take the cotter pin off and loosen nut it comes off and I can not get the drag link to come out. I tapped it with a hammer then i started hitting harder and nothing would budge it....so now i decided I would remove the 4 nuts that hold the arm knuckle to the axle i guess.... and they come off easy, but the part wont seperate !!!! I am wondering why I cant get these connections to come apart. I know for sure some of the parts are bent and it looks like there wasnt any maintenance.....anyway I am so sorry to go on llike this but Im hoping someone might understand and offer some advice.... I was going to try and heat one of the connections and see if that works but I thought I would think about it and ask on here first....ANY input is welcome. I tried to attach a file that is the kubota breakdown of the parts I am reffering to. not sure if it worked or not.
thanks to anyone who may be able to help
Rick

 

[KubotainNH]

Can you post some pictures of where your issues are? You can buy a cheap pitman arm puller or maybe rent one from an auto parts store. As for anything held in by a tapered shaft like a ball joint, whack the female part on the side 90 degrees from the tapered part. Do not hit the threaded part of the shaft. A couple good whacks with a multi pound hammer does the trick.

 

[2458n]

Google Kubota steering rebuild. Some interesting things there. Tie rod can be reshaped using a press. The top of the steering column on my tractor caught water and allowed it to flow into the gear box. When winter came it froze and I forced the steering. That is how the bearings came out. Explore the internet and you will find a rebuild how to on line. When you reassemble put silicone on the nut and fill the area under the center of the steering wheel with sealant. No water in the gear box no problem.

 

[rick sheltra]

thanks for the info I will take pics tomorrow and post them. First I will try whacking with a larger hammer...maybe Im just not hitting hard enough.
Also thats what i needed to know there is a puller for the pitman arm. I will check the harbor frieght site and see if they have a cheap one. It looked like it was pressed on. thanks

 

[rick sheltra]

I bet that is when I ruined the shaft. It was real cold a few years ago and it broke during that time. The water in the oil was excessive so Im sure that did it.... I will check the google and you tube sites for the info thanks. Ill update as I go thanks again

 

[rick sheltra]

I just found a link you all have probably seen but it is really helping me understand. here is the link Diagnosing and Preventing Steering Box Failure | OrangeTractorTalks

I had no idea there was a WEEP hole at the bottom of the shaft. Too bad they never point it out in the manuals....good way to sell more steering boxes.
all ths great info will have me up and running soon...

 

[Egon]

Do a search on TBN for B7100 steering gear boxes. Lots of threads on them.

If'n your whacking with a hammer always use a back up hammer.

Pitman arm should come of with a puller. Mine did not need a puller.

Also note the adjustment screw on the box.

 

[rick sheltra]

I cant figure out how to post the pics on here. help!!!!! please