riptides
Super Member
I would think it is a learning experience for Kubota on stress during field operations.
Which is why the upgrades happened.
B2910 front wheel snapped off!
- Thread starter dlabrie
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I would think it is a learning experience for Kubota on stress during field operations.
Which is why the upgrades happened.
The Haymaker
Veteran Member
If they upgrade, they know the original will fail, they should stand behind it. Just my belief. If they sold what they thought was a reasonable product that would withstand anything less than abuse, they would not upgrade!
Verticaltrx
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- Kubota B3200/L2501/SVL65-2/U35-4, IH 454/656, Ford NAA, Case 1845C/480E/450C LGP
I don't know all the history behind this, but my guess is the original stub axle had been in use satisfactorily for many years. As more and more people started using loaders, and the loaders got larger, more failures started cropping up. I'm not sure how the new part differs from the old, but it could be something as simple as a better forging or heat treating process.
They updated the part and as far as I know only the new part # is available nowadays, so once replaced it should no longer be an issue. I know other manufactures who will keep selling the customers the same old crap over and over again.
One other thing to realize is that what we hear on TBN is not always a good sampling of the general tractoring public. It seems like there are a lot of problems with a certain tractor (any make) on here since this is where people come to discuss it. Most of the time you don't have people posting that their tractor is working fine, just for the sake of doing so (although there have been some.)
wrenchturner
Silver Member
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If you have a bench vise do the following.
1. Screw a wheel nut about 6 threads onto the stud so it is almost flush even
with the stud. Make sure you screw the tapered end of the nut on first.
2. Place a large socket over the back side of the stud.
3. Place the hub aseembly into a vise and press the stud into the large socket.
For installation it looks like the stud will fit go in from the back. Just push the stud into the hole enough for the splines to grip then place a large washer over the stud then pull in with a lug nut turned backwards. IF the stud will not fit in from the backside, you can try grinding down a small flat spot on the head of the stud otherwise you are going to have to take it back to the repair shop.
1. Screw a wheel nut about 6 threads onto the stud so it is almost flush even
with the stud. Make sure you screw the tapered end of the nut on first.
2. Place a large socket over the back side of the stud.
3. Place the hub aseembly into a vise and press the stud into the large socket.
For installation it looks like the stud will fit go in from the back. Just push the stud into the hole enough for the splines to grip then place a large washer over the stud then pull in with a lug nut turned backwards. IF the stud will not fit in from the backside, you can try grinding down a small flat spot on the head of the stud otherwise you are going to have to take it back to the repair shop.
Verticaltrx
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Are they press in studs? If so you might have enough clearance to press them in from the back using a large C-clamp. If so, place the stud in the hole, put the fixed part of the c-clamp against the stud, and a socket over the other side. (so you are pressing it into the socket as you go) Be sure to use a socket deep enough to accept the length of the stud once it's pressed through. You'll need a pretty big clamp and even so it may not have enough force. If that's the case clamp it as tight as you can and give it a little tap with a hammer. Not a lot, just enough to vibrate it a little.
If there isn't enough clearance to perform that operation about your only option is to take it back apart.
KennyV
Elite Member
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YES... get the correct thread pitch, length and the hardest metric bolt... (you want the hardness, not for shear strength, but in a wheel stud you don't removal of the wheel to damage the exposed threads)...
But you have some on the way so that will take care of it... KennyV
Dead Horse
Platinum Member
Dave, I wish I had seen this earlier. I could have saved you some trouble. There is a snap ring between the gear and the case that requires a special tool to get to (AND the knowledge that it is there in the first place) I am glad you did not push hard on the parts as the danger is you go and crack the case and the bill gets substantially higher! I learned this when I had to replace a bearing in my L3710.
The dealer is correct that it does not take special tools to put it back together as the snap ring "snaps" into place upon PROPER assembly.
I know the guys you used for the work. Believe me they are better than the shop we both USE to get parts from.
I just saw the part on the bolts vs studs.......... MAN! do they ever make it easy???!!!!!!!
Do you know the thread pitch etc? I gotta think Rand's has something that will work for the time being. I actually found a left hand threaded bolt there the other day. So they do have oddball stuff. Bet it is metric though and it does need to have the properly rounded shoulder.
BTW, don't toss that hub and stud set....... the studs Can be pressed out and having spares around in a pinch can save the day!