B2910 front wheel snapped off!

[riptides]

So does that mean they will stand behind a sub-standard product?

Again, with what we pay for this equipment, we should not be receiving equipment better suited for a kids sandbox.

I would think it is a learning experience for Kubota on stress during field operations.

Which is why the upgrades happened.

 

[The Haymaker]

I would think it is a learning experience for Kubota on stress during field operations.

Which is why the upgrades happened.

If they upgrade, they know the original will fail, they should stand behind it. Just my belief. If they sold what they thought was a reasonable product that would withstand anything less than abuse, they would not upgrade!

 

[dlabrie]

OK. I knew this was going to easily. I didn't notice that there were no stud bolts in the new axle! Now what?

 

[Verticaltrx]

So does that mean they will stand behind a sub-standard product?

Again, with what we pay for this equipment, we should not be receiving equipment better suited for a kids sandbox.

I don't know all the history behind this, but my guess is the original stub axle had been in use satisfactorily for many years. As more and more people started using loaders, and the loaders got larger, more failures started cropping up. I'm not sure how the new part differs from the old, but it could be something as simple as a better forging or heat treating process.

They updated the part and as far as I know only the new part # is available nowadays, so once replaced it should no longer be an issue. I know other manufactures who will keep selling the customers the same old crap over and over again.

One other thing to realize is that what we hear on TBN is not always a good sampling of the general tractoring public. It seems like there are a lot of problems with a certain tractor (any make) on here since this is where people come to discuss it. Most of the time you don't have people posting that their tractor is working fine, just for the sake of doing so (although there have been some.)

 

[wrenchturner]

If you have a bench vise do the following.

1. Screw a wheel nut about 6 threads onto the stud so it is almost flush even
with the stud. Make sure you screw the tapered end of the nut on first.

2. Place a large socket over the back side of the stud.

3. Place the hub aseembly into a vise and press the stud into the large socket.

For installation it looks like the stud will fit go in from the back. Just push the stud into the hole enough for the splines to grip then place a large washer over the stud then pull in with a lug nut turned backwards. IF the stud will not fit in from the backside, you can try grinding down a small flat spot on the head of the stud otherwise you are going to have to take it back to the repair shop.

 

[Verticaltrx]

OK. I knew this was going to easily. I didn't notice that there were no stud bolts in the new axle! Now what?

Are they press in studs? If so you might have enough clearance to press them in from the back using a large C-clamp. If so, place the stud in the hole, put the fixed part of the c-clamp against the stud, and a socket over the other side. (so you are pressing it into the socket as you go) Be sure to use a socket deep enough to accept the length of the stud once it's pressed through. You'll need a pretty big clamp and even so it may not have enough force. If that's the case clamp it as tight as you can and give it a little tap with a hammer. Not a lot, just enough to vibrate it a little.

If there isn't enough clearance to perform that operation about your only option is to take it back apart.

 

[dlabrie]

I don't know all the history behind this, but my guess is the original stub axle had been in use satisfactorily for many years. As more and more people started using loaders, and the loaders got larger, more failures started cropping up. I'm not sure how the new part differs from the old, but it could be something as simple as a better forging or heat treating process.

They updated the part and as far as I know only the new part # is available nowadays, so once replaced it should no longer be an issue. I know other manufactures who will keep selling the customers the same old crap over and over again.

One other thing to realize is that what we hear on TBN is not always a good sampling of the general tractoring public. It seems like there are a lot of problems with a certain tractor (any make) on here since this is where people come to discuss it. Most of the time you don't have people posting that their tractor is working fine, just for the sake of doing so (although there have been some.)

The holes on the new axle are threaded. Could I buy some hardened bolts and just bolt on the wheel?

 

[dlabrie]

The only dealership that has the threaded studs is in the southern part of the state. I called them and they will ship them ups on Monday.

More to come...

 

[KennyV]

The holes on the new axle are threaded. Could I buy some hardened bolts and just bolt on the wheel?

YES... get the correct thread pitch, length and the hardest metric bolt... (you want the hardness, not for shear strength, but in a wheel stud you don't removal of the wheel to damage the exposed threads)...
But you have some on the way so that will take care of it... KennyV

 

[Dead Horse]

Well it has been a learning experience. The shop called today and said the part was finally in and I could pick up the repaired assembly tomorrow. My axle only calls for 80/90W gear lube, nothing special. I will pick up some RTV sealer tomorrow as well and hopefully be back in business.

Dave, I wish I had seen this earlier. I could have saved you some trouble. There is a snap ring between the gear and the case that requires a special tool to get to (AND the knowledge that it is there in the first place) I am glad you did not push hard on the parts as the danger is you go and crack the case and the bill gets substantially higher! I learned this when I had to replace a bearing in my L3710.

The dealer is correct that it does not take special tools to put it back together as the snap ring "snaps" into place upon PROPER assembly.

I know the guys you used for the work. Believe me they are better than the shop we both USE to get parts from.

I just saw the part on the bolts vs studs.......... MAN! do they ever make it easy???!!!!!!!

Do you know the thread pitch etc? I gotta think Rand's has something that will work for the time being. I actually found a left hand threaded bolt there the other day. So they do have oddball stuff. Bet it is metric though and it does need to have the properly rounded shoulder.

BTW, don't toss that hub and stud set....... the studs Can be pressed out and having spares around in a pinch can save the day!

 

[dlabrie]

Dave, I wish I had seen this earlier. I could have saved you some trouble. There is a snap ring between the gear and the case that requires a special tool to get to (AND the knowledge that it is there in the first place) I am glad you did not push hard on the parts as the danger is you go and crack the case and the bill gets substantially higher! I learned this when I had to replace a bearing in my L3710.

The dealer is correct that it does not take special tools to put it back together as the snap ring "snaps" into place upon PROPER assembly.

I know the guys you used for the work. Believe me they are better than the shop we both USE to get parts from.

I just saw the part on the bolts vs studs.......... MAN! do they ever make it easy???!!!!!!!

Do you know the thread pitch etc? I gotta think Rand's has something that will work for the time being. I actually found a left hand threaded bolt there the other day. So they do have oddball stuff. Bet it is metric though and it does need to have the properly rounded shoulder.

BTW, don't toss that hub and stud set....... the studs Can be pressed out and having spares around in a pinch can save the day!

The new studs are not pressed in, But, you are right, I could use them on the other side if necessary. I was looking at the wheel and the holes are not beveled. As a matter of fact, they are held on with a nut and lock washer. I probably could have gone with a hardened metric bolt and lock washer. Well I already ordered the studs, hopefully they will send them out on Monday as promised.

I actually had pretty good luck with the former shop you mentioned. It sure was handy when you needed something. I really miss it being there.

 

[RobertN]

I dunno, that maybe we push these things pretty hard some times. No matter the brand. Sometimes "just push harder" should equal "get a larger machine for the job". Like many tools, just because it can, does not mean it should. That could be, the tool is not correct for the job, or the job should be done differently with the tools at hand.

I have not damaged either of my tractors(previous Kubota B8200, current NH TC40D). I have bent rear implements though...

If they upgrade, they know the original will fail, they should stand behind it. Just my belief. If they sold what they thought was a reasonable product that would withstand anything less than abuse, they would not upgrade!

 

[Dead Horse]

The new studs are not pressed in, But, you are right, I could use them on the other side if necessary. I was looking at the wheel and the holes are not beveled. As a matter of fact, they are held on with a nut and lock washer. I probably could have gone with a hardened metric bolt and lock washer. Well I already ordered the studs, hopefully they will send them out on Monday as promised.

I actually had pretty good luck with the former shop you mentioned. It sure was handy when you needed something. I really miss it being there.

I agree, it was handy having it there and I liked several of the folks who worked there. The ONLY issue I had with the place was the service shop was, IMHO unreliable. That and they were very proud of the parts they sold..... but that is the case no matter where you get tractor stuff.

 

[Cruisin]

If they upgrade, they know the original will fail, they should stand behind it. Just my belief. If they sold what they thought was a reasonable product that would withstand anything less than abuse, they would not upgrade!

Hmmm, By that logic, Ford should go out and replace every car they ever sold with carburetor. Changing to fuel injection was a blatant admission that the carburetors were no good! Hopefully products evolve and technology improves. Could be the new part costs less to make.

It's not practical to think manufacturers should "stand behind" every possible defect forever. That's why warrantes have limits. You can buy extended warranties if you want to spend the money. Keep in mind, warranty costs get rolled back into next year's tractor prices. The cost of the "goodwill" stuff that gets covered for your neighbor, will be added to your next tractor. How much do you want to pay?

 

[RobertBrown]

All I can say is; "for somebody who didn't even know what RTV was, you got it done, and a job well done considering the circumstances".
Back up and running better than new in 2 weeks after tearing a front wheel off?
My hats off to ya!

 

[ayelvington]

Lurking and feeling your pain.

I like my local dealer, but I recommend that you check Messicks for parts inventory and availability in the future.

Messick's | Dealer for New Holland, Case IH, Kubota, Cub Cadet and More | Online Parts, Sales & Service.

 

[dlabrie]

Lurking and feeling your pain.

I like my local dealer, but I recommend that you check Messicks for parts inventory and availability in the future.

Messick's | Dealer for New Holland, Case IH, Kubota, Cub Cadet and More | Online Parts, Sales & Service.

I went there first. I got the front axle diagram off their site and got an idea of what I would have to do and need to order. I emailed them to make sure I wasn't missing something and to make sure it was something I could do myself. They never responded. So, I called the nearest shop here in NH. Years ago there was a great shop in NC, I can't remember the name, Carver maybe, They were great on shipping everything from parts to complete tractors. To bad they are no longer in business.

 

[dlabrie]

All I can say is; "for somebody who didn't even know what RTV was, you got it done, and a job well done considering the circumstances".
Back up and running better than new in 2 weeks after tearing a front wheel off?
My hats off to ya!

Thanks for that. When it actually comes out of the garage under its own power I'll celebrate . I try to look at these situations as puzzles to be solved and with all of the help people here on TBN are willing to give it is doable.

 

[Volfandt]

Thanks for that. When it actually comes out of the garage under its own power I'll celebrate . I try to look at these situations as puzzles to be solved and with all of the help people here on TBN are willing to give it is doable.

Great attitude
Thing is, stuff breaks. Sometimes the best barometer in determining a manmade device's value is in it's support structure. Messicks as well as Carvers (I remember them & had done business with them also) with their online presence are ahead of the curve and should be consdiered a value added aspect to Kubota, shame a missed communication cost them business in this case, but that is something they need to address....
Your local dealer benefited but I am somewhat surprised the situation w/the studs weren't caught/addressed before they pressed the axle in..... Glad you've found a workaround.

Looking forward to a happy ending
Dave

 

[dlabrie]

Great attitude

Your local dealer benefited but I am somewhat surprised the situation w/the studs weren't caught/addressed before they pressed the axle in..... Glad you've found a workaround.

Looking forward to a happy ending
Dave

I worked with a contractor one time and we would come up on issues that I thought were impossible to surmount. I would say something like, "there's no way we can do that" and he would just shrug and say, "well, we have too" and after it was figured out and completed, he would say "that was easy." I got him a That Was Easy Button from staples

Yeah, I wish my dealer had spotted that as well, he could have ordered the studs with the axle.