Auto Darkening Helmets. Is there a difference?

[tomplum]

I bought this one 2 years ago to replace expensive Optrel with a non replaceable battery. Unlike Radios, it wasn't in my capability to install a battery without breaking the cartridge. It is the same offshore one that some welding supply stores have for more $$ . I was going to get a nice Viking, but I couldn't get the fit right . Not that I can get this one to fit right either, but it was 40$ rather 300. I still have a tweaker for a back up. BTW the battery is replaceable and the lens is clear when ever it is clean! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073PY7F68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[PILOON]

Well I welded for 4-5 hrs today with an 'el cheepo' offshore helmet and I don't see spots nor do I have a headache.
As I recall I paid all of $30 for it.
Also I have 2 and each performe as I expected them.
OK, I did examine specs B4 buying but then both don't have fancy paint schemes on them, just plain black.
(LOL, someone else used it and I had to re adjust the head straps to get it to my comfort level.)

From my investigations I suspect that no matter the price or supplier they all use the same 'guts'.

I'll add that I always do a little 'test' B4 I start a welding session.
My test consists of a simple 'Flick of my Bick' , (lighter that is) and if the flint spark pushes the helmet into 'weld mode' I feel good to go.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm a hobbyist welder. Have a nice Miller MIG. Started with a HF cheapo. I think mine was defective as the auto dark seemed faulty. Upgraded to a $100 Miller Classic that does great especially after I added a cheater lens. Do wish I had a larger viewing area but cannot justify the expense for my occasional use.

 

[TractorGuy]

I can't remember how old my HF hood is but I bought it the first month they were open in my town. No change in performance unless I forget to check the darkness dial which can get moved easily. I store it under my leather apron to keep the dust off so I have got in the habit of checking the dial before I put it on. If my battery fails now I'm gonna blame you guys!

 

[tommy49]

I found that cataract surgery solved the problem of not seeing the arc. If you have trouble seeing the arc with the auto-darken set all the way down, get your eyes checked. Even the lighting in my shop is brighter than it's ever been.

 

[gsganzer]

I find that keeping the lenses clean and clear makes a huge difference. I'm not very good about protecting the lens and mine gets scratched and needs changed/cleaned frequently.

I have an autodarkening that I find to be a complete PITA if using outdoors. It prematurely darkens in certain positions with the sunlight or there's such glare/reflection that it's difficult to see clearly. Some folks have suggested trying a pancake welding shield, so I've started to look at them. With the pancake, you sand them to fit snuggly around your brow, reducing background glare/reflection.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I bet a friend has ten various helmets lying around the shop. I could try them, but am a little squeemish about that. Like, I don't really like anyone using mine. I know it's dumb, but we all have our kwirks.

 

[k0ua]

I use high intensity lighting, which allows me to see the welding process perfectly using the HF adjustable helmet on a 10 setting. the problem with the helmet is just that the batteries are non replaceable, except by an engineer that can fix that problem.. BTDT.. there are overly expensive helmets that have replaceable batteries, with a battery holder and is easily accessible..

Well. there is a little thread I started dealing with that battery issue.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...l-welding-helmet-puked.html?highlight=welding

 

[AWSubie]

I am a hobbyist welder. I have found that being able to see where I’m welding is mostly influenced by two factors: 1) line of sight to the wire or stick; I like to be in a position that I can see both the weld pool and the base material. When I first started welding I looked from above the wire or stick and this position prevented me from seeing the base material and where I was going and led to me wandering off my intended path.

2) distance of the wire or stick from the base material; this involves technique. A shorter arc makes it easier for me to see the weld pool but it also reduces the amount of light given off by the arc that illluminates the weld path, sort of a “catch 22”.

I find that if I start losing sight of my path I need to lengthen the arc to light up the path. If I lengthen the arc too much I lose sight of the weld pool and can’t see tie-in of the pool to the base material. So, for me, arc length is constantly be adjusted throughout the length of the weld.

I suppose these factors come naturally to a professional welder whereas I have to focus on these two factors and when I do, I have good results.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I can't hardly imagine the nice welding I could do, if I could actually see everything.

I did learn a little trick last night about welding newly painted surfaces. I found that if I cut the ball off the end of the wire each time, I could strike an arc everytime, as it pierced the paint layer. Not so with the little ball on the end.

 

[WranglerX]

I have Metalman helmet, TSC house brand (almost cheapo- $79) and it had the sealed battery, dead battery issue, after about 7 years, contacted Metalman and they were able to supply a replacement lens and electronics with replaceable batteries (2 AAA I think) and it's been fine ever sense, new uint has a test button and also a grinding mode, but I don't particularly like helmet for grinding, usually prefer a clear face shield...

Would not buy any helmet without replaceable batteries if I get new helmet in future...

Dale

 

[yomax4]

I can't hardly imagine the nice welding I could do, if I could actually see everything.

I did learn a little trick last night about welding newly painted surfaces. I found that if I cut the ball off the end of the wire each time, I could strike an arc everytime, as it pierced the paint layer. Not so with the little ball on the end.

Some of the new Mig equipment out there will sharpen the wire after each arc. Finish your weld and the wire looks like a needle. No more stutter starts or as we always called them Beethoven starts. Da Da Da Dum. lol..

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I run a Jackson TrueSight II Lens (29371) in a cheap, $50 dollar, plain, Miller-colored-blue welding helmet so nobody can tell I've got a $300 lens. I use the helmet for grinding, torch work, as well as welding since the Truesight II lens has a generously sized viewing area.

JACKSON SAFETY 46118 True Sight II Digital Variable ADF Welding Helmet with Balder Technology, Halo X and Scars, Universal, Stars: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The TrueSight II slips right into Jackson's least expensive helmet that features the same head retention system and allows your expensive, accurate TrueSight II lens to go incognito.

Jackson Safety Fixed Shade W1 HSL 1 Welding Helmet (14976), Blue, 4 Units / Case: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Industrial Toys]

I looked at a review and thought that I might have found a good helmet in the Lincoln Viking 3350. A little shocked at the price tag, but then of course that dream had to be blown up. My local Praxair dealer said he took them off the shelf after issues, which Lincoln refused to stand behind.

 

[rkidd]

I looked at a review and thought that I might have found a good helmet in the Lincoln Viking 3350. A little shocked at the price tag, but then of course that dream had to be blown up. My local Praxair dealer said he took them off the shelf after issues, which Lincoln refused to stand behind.

A few years ago I bought the viking 3350 helmet. Absolutely love the helmet. The large viewing area is really nice as I wear bifocal glasses and can use the with this helmet. It also has a lighter blue tint instead of he dark green so easier to see the arc for me. It has alot of adjustability with it also. I have never had a problem with mine. I bought mine on line, so that might be an option for you if your dealer doesnt stock them.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Thanks. Good input. The issue might have been that they are not weatherproof. Not claimed to be, so that may have been the issue, but I don't know. I don't weld in the rain or snow, and using MIG, rarely try and weld outside anyways.

It does look like the Miller Elite, what my local sho is pushing instead, might in fact have a green tint.

 

[yomax4]

Hot tip on Hoods. Look up the Weldcote Ultraview Plus TC. 3 year warranty, Digital High Def optics. Clear View technology looks light grey or light blue when arc is lit. Very light 2.5 shade when in clear state. They have had this 5 years and only recently have the others started to offer similar. Plus it's 1/2 price of the same technology. I see them on Amazon and E-bay for $130- $140.

 

[grsthegreat]

I was pissed off today. Neither of my auto darkening hoods would work. One is the Jackson boss the other is a Lincoln. Turns out both had battery leakage issues. I cleaned both with battery corrosion compound and a tips. Both were very hard to reach the way there designed. Both work now, but I was wondering, would lithium batteries cause the same issue if I swap to lithium?

 

[johncanfield]

I have the 3M Speedglas helmet with neck protection, expensive but first class.