For the center of the stream and possible supports, the water will not go much higher than the picture. I picked this spot because the water will rarely even get close to the bridge itself and usually will be halfway or less up to the bridge itself.I like doorman63's suggestion of utility poles. They'll support a lot of weight, and will likely outlast you before they rot, unlike the fir.
As far as center support (should you go that route), how big is the stream at its highest? A strong current or high level is going to put a lot of stress on those supports unless they're well anchored.
My comment is when people say it’s too bouncy

I’ve considered doing something similar with 1/4 or 3/8 aircraft cable and 2 short pieces of tube steel if the bounce is too much. I have most of the materials on hand.An inverted king post bridge design will add strength, even if the post is 1 foot. More is better if you can keep it out of the water.
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How Inverted King Post Trusses Allow for Large, Elegant Open Spaces
Inverted king post trusses are made of steel bars and cables, these last used to reduce bending and deformation and truss’ heightwww.archdaily.com
Bruce
Yep. That was my thoughts with my "ATV" bridge. A Jeep or tractor won't fit on it. Same with Doorman's design.A good design feature is to have weak bridges narrow enough to keep heavy vehicles off them.
Bruce
My next one is gonna be for vehicles…..I have all of the steel tubes/angle iron. Most of the 3x4 decking. May not run the Kubota over it…….Yep. That was my thoughts with my "ATV" bridge. A Jeep or tractor won't fit on it. Same with Doorman's design.
Please start a thread when you build it.My next one is gonna be for vehicles…..I have all of the steel tubes/angle iron. Most of the 3x4 decking. May not run the Kubota over it…….
I had similar thoughts for my bridges, but did not take into account atmospheric river and one of my bridged ended up about 20 feet down stream and one had water flowing over it.... If you think its high enough, add another foot to height.....For the center of the stream and possible supports, the water will not go much higher than the picture. I picked this spot because the water will rarely even get close to the bridge itself and usually will be halfway or less up to the bridge itself.
Sandwich Fir beams between cee purlins, 2x boards or whatever is on hand. 3' to 6' cut offs can be bought cheap or sometimes picked up free around weld up buildings.Can you elaborate on how the cee purlin would be used? Are they vertical, supporting the beams? I am not following. Thanks.
Depending on what your materials are in the bridge, one relatively easy thing to do would be to tie one or more corners to a good post you set in concrete with your posthole digger, if you had one. Would probably only need to loosely anchor one corner on the 'home' shore to keep the thing from being a cleanup project somewhere downstream. It might still be severely damaged, or it might not, but it should be more of a 'breakaway' than a 'float away' design, at least in my mind.one of my bridged ended up about 20 feet down stream and one had water flowing over it.... If you think its high enough, add another foot to height.....
It’s mostly built in my head!!!Please start a thread when you build it.
My big bridge would probably hold my Ford TLB or my Kubota but I don't have to cross it with them so I don't. I tend to over build things......