Anyone else make the same mistake I did?

[CausticUrbanCoast]

I am surprised that anyone still makes a rotary cutter that does not have a slip clutch.

Not really a big deal for a hydraulically driven pto, just the rest of us with gear driven pto.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I am surprised that anyone still makes a rotary cutter that does not have a slip clutch.

Do a little research, you are about to be awful surprised!

SR

 

[ruffdog]

I wonder if the OP is over tightening the shear bolt?

Maybe even leave it a bit loose with a locking nut.

 

[ptsg]

Not really a big deal for a hydraulically driven pto, just the rest of us with gear driven pto.

Who offers hydraulically driven PTO? Other than Power Trac, skidsteers and a couple others, but those are different types of machines in the first place.

Shear bolt works just fine and I do believe it's a better option for inexperienced users that don't know or neglect to maintain slip clutches.

We have this style that's very easy to change the shear bolt. Just a simple M8 grade 5.8 bolt. When it shears, it's as simple as pulling both halfs out, take the nut of the broke piece and slap a new one in.

 

[m1garand762]

Mike, the package of shear bolts are not a true grade 2 I went through this with my tiller. They are scored to break you’ll probably see a slight line in it

 

[newbury]

Now If they didn't break what would Tractor Supply be able to Supply you with! Grade 1.5 most likely lol

No, more expensive parts, like PTO shafts.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm running a 5' RC behind my B7800. I have hundreds of hours with this combo in use: two different RCs. Have broken maybe three(?) shear bolts, and I've been fairly abusive. My NX5510 [HST] runs a 6' RC with a slip clutch. This combo would readily eat up shear pins- A LOT of mass and impact force.

OP, what are you cutting? Go with what's in the manual (grade) and you should be fine: LandPride, in particular, should be very reliable as to all this. IF you find that you're breaking too many shear pins THEN consider a slip clutch: either the LandPride documentation's mention of "either" is to cover the different models (usually manuals cover a range of equipment) or it actually is an option- if it's an option then you might fall into the reason for that option (and go that route!).

NX stalled out when my 7' flail choked on a chunk of 8" (unintentionally hit). Quite relieved to find that nothing was broken (except my nerves). The flail (case for many) doesn't use a slip clutch or a shear pin- in general, flails tend to rely on belt slippage. My flail has four belts, which I figure might make it tough to slip. Gonna have to ponder all of this with this setup...

 

[MESSMAKER]

Shear bolts work fine in smaller cutters. If you are just cutting grass and don't have to deal with rocks or stumps, you may never break a pin. I think you need a 1/2 inch that is about 4 inches long. I would shop Tractor Supply. I usually put the nut on finger tight and secure it with a bit of duct tape or some safety wire to keep the nut in place. A lock nut or jamming two nuts together is another way to do it.

 

[5030]

So am I. Should have gotten the slip clutch option instead of a shear bolt then...

You can actually add one. TSC has them in stock usually (or any place that sells farm equipment like Agri-Supply for instance.

 

[sea2summit]

I am surprised that anyone still makes a rotary cutter that does not have a slip clutch.

All about the money, slip clutch is expensive and takes extra man hours to assemble. Worth it, but the average buyer looking at two side by side wont understand why one's $100 cheaper.