Removing sheared bolts

[sandman2234]

Drill bit extenders tend to allow a little bit of wobble, which is not good when you are trying to drill in the center of the broken bolt.
I would shop for longer drill bits... they are available somewhere!!! Probably not a Harbor Freight, Lowes or Home Depot but machine tool suppliers should have them.
David from jax

 

[Lgim]

A couple questions.

Is the grey metal behind the fuel filter the engine block or some other cast part of the drive train or is it like a frame rail that the engine sits inside of?

I’m assuming you want to go thru the orange bracket and then drill a hole down the centre of the broken bolt. Now based on the welding on the bracket and the 3 broken bolts I would have to guess that there was movement where there shouldn’t be movement. So then the next question is when you parked the tractor and all the movement stopped did the holes in the bracket return to being directly over the broken bolts? My concern would be if the bracket is 1/8 th of an inch off, drilling down the centre of the bracket will make the hole down one side, off centre on the bolt. If not perfectly lined up I would probably pull the bracket off and work on the broken bolts in the open.

g

 

[RayIN]

Drill bit extenders tend to allow a little bit of wobble, which is not good when you are trying to drill in the center of the broken bolt.
I would shop for longer drill bits... they are available somewhere!!! Probably not a Harbor Freight, Lowes or Home Depot but machine tool suppliers should have them.
David from jax

I still have some HHS drill bits 8" long and a few 10" long. i forget what they are named. Here is one source: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drill-driver-bits/twist-bits/extended-length.html

 

[dodge man]

6 point sockets are designed for square ends, I’m not sure if that would help or not.

 

[Oz_Kioti]

6 point sockets are designed for square ends, I’m not sure if that would help or not.

12 point?

 

[skipmarcy]

8 point. Or tap socket. 12 point will fit but is weaker.

 

[RayIN]

Don't drill oversize and use too large an E-Z out or the E-Z out will swell the end of the bolt and make it more difficult to unscrew, there is a happy medium for each size bolt.

 

[dodge man]

12 point?

Maybe, I’ve got three in my tool box but I think 8 point is for square ends.

 

[beowulf]

A couple questions.

Is the grey metal behind the fuel filter the engine block or some other cast part of the drive train or is it like a frame rail that the engine sits inside of?

I’m assuming you want to go thru the orange bracket and then drill a hole down the centre of the broken bolt. Now based on the welding on the bracket and the 3 broken bolts I would have to guess that there was movement where there shouldn’t be movement. So then the next question is when you parked the tractor and all the movement stopped did the holes in the bracket return to being directly over the broken bolts? My concern would be if the bracket is 1/8 th of an inch off, drilling down the centre of the bracket will make the hole down one side, off centre on the bolt. If not perfectly lined up I would probably pull the bracket off and work on the broken bolts in the open.

g

Lgin, The holes in the orange bracket-shafts did not line up precisely. Before I discovered that the bolts were sheared instead of just missing, I used a tractor jack to lift the bracket and realign the holes vertically. Then used a bar to realign the holes front to back. A bit of a challenge but I think I can master that part. As for removing the bracket - I also had that thought but not sure it is doable - or easily doable. I have called the tractor guy and texted him pictures and a description of the issues and am waiting to hear from him. I will have him come out and assess it all.
I think it is the engine block.

Thanks for replying,
Ron

 

[beowulf]

I am a chicken. I would let the mobile service guy handle it. It might cost $300-400 but it will not be his first rodeo

Doesn’t hurt to call and get a price.

Shooterdon, thanks for replying. I am leaning - strongly - to that option. I have contacted him. The consequences of messing up are pretty severe.

 

[beowulf]

Agree with shooterdon, at least get a cost estimate on the job before tackling it yourself and perhaps making it end up costing bunches more! I don't have any mobile service guys in my area (that I'm aware of anyhow) but that's the route I'd try first.

Gregster, I am leaning that way as well. And have contacted the guy to come out and assess the situation. I like to DIY things and get satisfaction doing it that way, but the consequences of messing this up are scary. Thanks for replying.
Ron

 

[shooterdon]

Shooterdon, thanks for replying. I am leaning - strongly - to that option. I have contacted him. The consequences of messing up are pretty severe.

The "right" approach for me is to farm a job like this out because I am not very talented. Others with different skills will DYI it. For those with more talent, it would be worth a shot to save some money. It is the "right" way for them.

One added concern is the amount of welding that has been done to fix broken members in the area. Again, I am not smart enough to know what else could have happened, but I am smart enough to know I don't know.

I hope it works out for you and the repairs are not too costly!

 

[bumperm]

I've successfully used stud extraction electrodes with a welder. A nut and washer are placed over the hole and the electrode is inserted to strike an arc on the broken fastener. The flux of the electrode is specially designed to protect the original threads as the electrode welds to the broken fastener and out to the new nut. Then when cooled, the nut is turned to remove the broken fastener.

See: https://www.fsh-welding.ca/sites/de...ges/2_Soudotec Stud-Xtract_FT WEB_anglais.pdf

Or search < stud extract electrode >

 

[Oz_Kioti]

8 point. Or tap socket. 12 point will fit but is weaker.

Well there ya go - I didn't know 8 point sockets were a "thing", however Mr Google sorted out my lack of knowledge (right after TBN of course).

My gasoline powered high pressure water pump has a small square-head drain plug, which I loosen/nip up with a 12 point 10mm socket, so that's the extent of my knowledge there. My 10mm 1/4" drive socket is a 6 point, so no good for that application.

 

[TORQUIN]

Keep in mind that once a bolt's head has broken off, the stretch, and bind, on the threads goes away, so the bolts should easily turn for removal if there isn't corrosion complicating things. Kubota is pretty good about corrosion prevention, so you might easily get those bolts out of there with a left-hand drill bit or a punch.
Chris

 

[Snezzy]

Gregster, I am leaning that way as well. And have contacted the guy to come out and assess the situation. I like to DIY things and get satisfaction doing it that way, but the consequences of messing this up are scary. Thanks for replying.
Ron

Yes, you get just one chance to do it right.

 

[Fxfymn413]

You have a huge advantage in that the bolts are broken below the top surface because that will allow you to get an accurate center starting point by using a drill bit that fits the hole exactly. Drill it just enough to make a dimple in the center of the broken bolt which will allow the extraction bit to center up on the bolt.

I would soak the bolts with some type of lubricant such as Kroil for a couple of days before attempting removal. Make sure you use lube while drilling as well.

If you are nervous about keeping the bit straight it should not be too difficult to come up something to make a sleeve that fits the hole.

Look on Amazon for longer bits. I like Drill America cobalt bits.

 

[jmc]

If you have access to a metal lathe, drill out the center line of a short bolt matching the threads of your tractor's hole, then use it as a drill guide for a centered and square hole in the broken bolt.

If that drill guide thru hole is long and skinny, make sure it didn't lead off-center when it was drilled.

 

[Gord Baker]

I have now watched a few youtube videos and it seems doable if I get the right bolt removal kit and quality bits and penetrating oil - and can manage to get holes drilled in the precise centers of the sheared bolts - I think I can find some appropriately sized short shafts to help with that. I am still thinking about the DIY vs the tractor guy. I guess it would not hurt for me to try first.

This is a job for someone experienced in this repair. You might screw it up even more and make it more or impossible to fix without machine work. Start by putting penetrating oil in all holes daily and be sure they are broken off, not just backed out.

 

[Gord Baker]

If you have access to a metal lathe, drill out the center line of a short bolt matching the threads of your tractor's hole, then use it as a drill guide for a centered and square hole in the broken bolt.

If that drill guide thru hole is long and skinny, make sure it didn't lead off-center when it was drilled.

Great Idea!