Any secrets for removing Scag blades?

[Maxify55]

Here's the deal. If you've hit something with your blades the nut has thereby tightened with that impact. With your Scag you'll have to use, in my case a 13" crescent wrench on top to hold the spindle nut from reversing. Then from underneath use a 15/16" (1/2" dr.) socket or a 24mm if you desire. Connected to a 24" breaker bar and a pipe of sufficient ID to accept the end of your breaker bar.
Physics comes into play here. The farther away from the axis (The stubborn nut/bolt) the less energy is needed to break the bond.
I keep a 4 foot long pipe around for just such occasions with my Ferris on the farm.

 

[sbriscoe123]

I had to get an Ingersoll Rand 2135TiMax that was rated at 780 ft/lbs torque on reverse to get mine off, and that was after using a lesser 1/2 " air wrench. I even put a little grease on the bolt end last time. I will try some anti-seize compound next time.

 

[sbriscoe123]

I replaced my spindle bolts and nuts yesterday and the Skagg dealer told me to put a thin washer under the top nut. I also put anti-sieze compound on it, so we'll see how it does.

 

[Tomtint]

I have 2 Scag mowers, the first time I took the blades off was a learning experience. Now I use never seize and a impact gun. No problems now