Removing brush hog blades

   / Removing brush hog blades #21  
Put a block under it to support it and have at it. I have a video of what I did on my Woods BB720X rotary cutter.

 
   / Removing brush hog blades #22  
I had the same problem with my bush hog. Woods has a much better design in terms of removing the blades.

Try Corrosion X. It's much better than any of the other penetrating oils I've used. Even if it does not do the trick, it's worth having around.

 
   / Removing brush hog blades #23  
Rust is probably the main problem but the weight of the blade suspended on the bolt (33) is also putting it in a bind. Working through the 3" hole is also a problem. Without getting under the hog, place a large piece of steel on top of the bolt that will rise above the body of the hog and use a sledgehammer (8 lb). The bolts probably won't be usable when you are done anyway.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades #24  
Cut a piece of 4 x 4 to support under the stump jumper. Apply penetrating oil to the bolt. Use a steel rod of your choice and a hand held sledge hammer and pound away. That is how mine came out. Didn't have to replace the bolts. Everything has been working for about 6 years. Nothing bent and doesn't wobble.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades #25  
I was thinking heat. Would a decent hand held propane torch do or do I need Oxy-Acetylene? I've used propane torches on stuck fasteners with success before but the fasteners were a lot smaller.

There's no room for a normal gear puller unless I remove the blade carrier entirely. Then I could get at it from above without going through the 3" hole in the deck.
Given the thickness of the materials involved I'd bet an Oxy-Acetylene welding torch would be required. But getting things RED HOT might screw up the parts unless you can temper them if needed - (not a blacksmith by a long shot, just thinking out LOUD).

So, if time is on your side, smaller torch, longer heating and chemicals first.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades #26  
That’s weird cause mine usually just fall out.
A few years ago a friend called with the same issue about getting the bolts out of his brush hog. I went over and he was trying to drive them out with out a support under them. I had him get a block of wood for support and on the second hit the bolt dropped out.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades #27  
I found it easier just to drop the whole stump jumper unit from the shaft and get everything out where I can work on it.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades #28  
Heat was my friend. Oxy-Aceylene to cherry red. Probably affected hardness, but they came apart.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Put a block under it to support it and have at it. I have a video of what I did on my Woods BB720X rotary cutter.

That's a nice big opening in the deck. Wish mine had that.

A few years ago a friend called with the same issue about getting the bolts out of his brush hog. I went over and he was trying to drive them out with out a support under them. I had him get a block of wood for support and on the second hit the bolt dropped out.
I'm going to try that, using a bigger hammer than I had last time. It's at my Oregon property so I have to bring any tools with me when I go there.
I found it easier just to drop the whole stump jumper unit from the shaft and get everything out where I can work on it.
I've thought about that. If I had a full set of equipment it'd be easier to do, but I only have what I can carry up. So no workbench or vice for example.
 
   / Removing brush hog blades #30  
That's a nice big opening in the deck. Wish mine had that.

Perhaps you could cut an access plate out? Weld tabs on it and drill corresponding holes through the tabs and the underlying top of your rotary cutter, and then either use nut plates or weld on nuts so that you can bolt on and off your access plate.
 

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