Alternative 3rd function?

[2manyrocks]

Would something like this wolverine valve be suited to use as a manual diverter and also function as a relief valve? The product description says it has an adjustable relief valve?

Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Directional Control Valves,Hydraulic Valves,Hydraulics, PRINCE MONOBLOCK VALVE Brand new PRINCE. For control of cylinders, motors, etc. Open center,

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Then I would just need hoses, adapter fittings and a mounting bracket. Right?

And something else now puzzles me. If I put a check valve in the system, does that prevent it from retracting the grapple hyd cylinder or is the check valve somehow pressure dependent so that it limits excessive pressure but still allows normal operation of the cylinder?

Or should some relief valve be added?

 

[LouNY]

Yes it would work.
You will need a Pressure in hose, a power beyond hose to carry on through the system, a return to tank hose plus your two lines for your grapple. Also be aware that when using that valve your other functions will not function untill that loop is pressurized to a greater valve then another function.
I would not install a check valve I have read of the possibility of applied stresses creating an excessive pressure condition. All a check valve would do if that happens is restrict the excess pressure to the system prior to the check.
I run my FEL remotes off a rear SCV and it works, but just as your idea will require letting go of any other hydraulic function to activate the new one so does mine.
Yes, I saved a bit of money and it works I do find myself reaching across my body to use both hands on hydraulic levers at times.
If doing it again I would use a electric diverter valve and wire the switch into the loader joystick,
I may end up doing so one of these days when I get "a round to it".

Not much more money and less hose footage and fittings.

You can add relief valves but they would need to be plumbed into a tank return line

 

[ovrszd]

I used the valve Lou displayed to run two cylinders off one rear remote on my rear blade. For my uses a toggle switch mounted near the valve levers works fine. For Grapple use I'd want a push button on the joystick.

 

[LouNY]

I used the valve Lou displayed to run two cylinders off one rear remote on my rear blade. For my uses a toggle switch mounted near the valve levers works fine. For Grapple use I'd want a push button on the joystick.

As do I and I even had another one to add to the blade to get 3 uses out of one remote

Those devices have many uses I plumbed one into a JD forage harvester last year.
It was built for use with JD's closed center system and we had to get it to function with Pressure Compensated Closed Center which
does not lit to play with closed center applications.
We plumbed it so that when not energized the flow circulated right trough the NO ports and when energized it provided hydraulics to the closed center valve body ( an electrically controlled 5 section body header lift/ that controlled all the functions of the forage harvester, drive clutch fwd/N/rev, header lift/lower, chute rotation and defector position, and machine position in or out compared to tractor centerline) ended up working quite well.
Mother Deere had a component to perform the job for $600 plus a few other bits and pieces but didn't want to divulge the info on what it was or how it worked.
We found a wire in the Deere harness that was hot upon activation of any of the controller switchs and used it to control our electric valve,
so the diverter valve and 3 short hoses and ready to go to work. It did take considerable researching and probbing to figure it out, but a piece of cake after that.

 

[BukitCase]

Lou, your method(s) are EXACTLY what I have plans and parts for on my 580B - now if LIFE would just leave me alone for awhile

I have a 6' grapple to control, and plans for an articulated brush cutter, QA for loader, several already built attachments to mod for direct hookup, etc (dilusions of grandeur anyone) - already have dual diverters (they'll run off bucket curl), control handle, etc, plus already added motor control for the hydraulic motor, supplied from an adjustable flow splitter -

This

https://www.controlgrips.com/x-series/

is the handle I bought, mine's configured for up to 3 separate diverters (I'll be using two, same as you described exactly) - those aren't cheap, but ergonomics are as perfect for one-handing as I could find.

Now, if that elusive "tuit" would break a leg so I could catch up... Steve

 

[2manyrocks]

The barn where I plan to store the L2501 has a lot of moisture. I have some concerns that the electric solenoid controls are going to eventually stick. When I asked Summit about the availability of replacement solenoids, all they said was that they stock them for warranty service. This is one of the reasons why I"m leaning towards a manually operated valve.

 

[TMGT]

The barn where I plan to store the L2501 has a lot of moisture. I have some concerns that the electric solenoid controls are going to eventually stick. When I asked Summit about the availability of replacement solenoids, all they said was that they stock them for warranty service. This is one of the reasons why I"m leaning towards a manually operated valve.

I had a diverter for my old B2620 and on the BH for the thumb, both stayed out in the weather for years while building a shop and have been service for over 10years with no problem.

The coil is the only external part, the action of the solenoid is internal so its not like a starter solenoid where moisture can cause it to jamb up.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[dlctcg]

I have some concerns that the electric solenoid controls are going to eventually stick.

I would not think that would be that big of an issue, 100's (++) of tractors sit outside year round & have electric solenoid valves on them... (unfortunately ours has the past 2yrs)... I mean it might happen but I'll risk it for the convenience, the ergonomics, & production time...

I really would want to ever loss the convenience of the controls right in the joystick over a separately operated valve, it is amazing how much we use that function when using a grapple & the tree / post puller... I could imagine having to move my hand off the loader joystick every time I need to operate the 3rd function.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Folks, yes the solenoid valves are on/off affairs, kind of. Your pump move a maiximum of so many gpm. A given size cylinder takes a set amount of fluid to extend fully, and a certain amount of fluid on the other side of hte piston to close it completely. You can add restrictions in the hoses after the solenoid valve to control the volumetric flow rate. There are nifty valves which are controlled by a needle valve going one way, and open the other direction. By putting one on. Each hydraulic line serving a cylinder you can control how fast it moves. I put them on the down and dump lines for my FEL. I have a small 23-hp tractor. The Valve the factory installed is an 11-gpm valve, with a 5-gpm pump. The loader was very manageable when you were raising or curling. It moved a bit too rapidly going down and dumping. I put the valves in and now it drops at the same rate it raises. Much more controllable, and enjoyable to run.

You can control the reaction rate on the solenoid controlled valve with the same inline valves. If just adds a bit of cost to the installation. If a fella was good at hydraulics calculations, you could probably come up with some kind of fixed orifice to add to one of the fittings

 

[davedj1]

I have a question about the concerns of a grapple producing an alarming amount of back pressure on the hydraulic system. How is this different than the loader cylinders or bucket curl cylinders while digging, pushing or grading? Do each of those lines have check valves? I also don't understand why you would be pushing with the lid of a grapple. Respect the tool for what it is and it will last a long time.