farmer2009
Elite Member
Drew. Good luck with the nails. Are you putting a metal roof of this building? If so why the ice and water shield on the roof. Metal roofs don't suffer from ice dams like shingled roofs do.
Advice on new barn construction needed
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daugen
Epic Contributor
Yes, a metal roof is going on next week. Not sure what you are referring to. We extended the roof two feet to keep the interior drier, with open sides and front.
Not sure why all this wood was needed on the roof. Personally I think the shed is totally overbuilt, plus all that wood adds weight up high. I wanted a basic storage shed; likely this builder knows only how to build one way, and I was hesitant to get him out of his comfort area. Now...if I had only asked for a nine foot opening instead of ten...I think the building is too high. I need to get my cab tractor under on the left side, but he sized this I think for a ten foot door. No door...
My ignorance is clearly showing. And no, I didn't get any plans, drawings whatsoever. Builder said he usually works without them. If I wanted plans, I needed an architect. Next time, I do this with drawings, if there is a next time. Frankly, I think when they are done it will look just fine. And hopefully last a lot longer than I had plans for. I'm only going to be here maybe ten years at the most before my health takes me elsewhere, so for once I'm not looking to build for all eternity. A generation, or two, would be fine from a resale standpoint.
I bought a good rolling metal magnet after the renovation on the house, where I got three quarters of a pound of nails out of my lawn. Different contractor...
Kubota tractor wound up with a nail in the front left and the right rear tires. neither thankfully doing any damage, sinking into the thick part of the tread. But worrisome nonetheless. Best thing to happen to these guys is get a flat on one of their expensive truck tires. That will remind them to pick up after themselves... I sent pics of nails to the GC and he said he left late the last day he was there and didn't have time to pick up; will do first thing Tuesday. Ok.
farmer2009
Elite Member
What product was applied to your roof on top of the sheeting? It looks like a self sealing membrane to me. Maybe it's just a Felton tar paper. I agree it's over built.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
At first I thought there was no such thing as overbuilt, but looking back at your pictures, I can see that I'm wrong. How old is your builder? I've seen young guys do this because they lack experience or an understanding in engineering. They just do everything the same way, regardless of span or finish desired.
How far apart are your trusses? What type of metal are you using for your roof?
For a metal roof, trusses can be as close as 4 feet, which makes it easy to use purlins on the flat. Going farther apart saves you money on what you pay for trusses and then you use your purlins on the edge. The extra cost of larger lumber for the purlins is going to be less then the cost of the trusses. I was trying to count how many trusses you have, and figure out their spacing. Are they one foot apart? If so, that's just crazy wasteful of your money buying what you don't need. Adding decking, then using a high dollar membrane is even more wasteful. It's like he has an unlimited fund to spend money on materials!!!! The only time you would deck a roof when using metal is when you use standing seam metal, which is going to be a lot more money then R panels. It's prettier because you don't see any screws holding it in place, but it's weaker and you need the decking underneath to hold it in place and attach the hidden fasteners. This is the most expensive way to build a metal roof!!!!
How far apart are your trusses? What type of metal are you using for your roof?
For a metal roof, trusses can be as close as 4 feet, which makes it easy to use purlins on the flat. Going farther apart saves you money on what you pay for trusses and then you use your purlins on the edge. The extra cost of larger lumber for the purlins is going to be less then the cost of the trusses. I was trying to count how many trusses you have, and figure out their spacing. Are they one foot apart? If so, that's just crazy wasteful of your money buying what you don't need. Adding decking, then using a high dollar membrane is even more wasteful. It's like he has an unlimited fund to spend money on materials!!!! The only time you would deck a roof when using metal is when you use standing seam metal, which is going to be a lot more money then R panels. It's prettier because you don't see any screws holding it in place, but it's weaker and you need the decking underneath to hold it in place and attach the hidden fasteners. This is the most expensive way to build a metal roof!!!!
Barnbuilder
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What size building is that? I would have put the trusses 4' on center and stripped it with 2"x4"s on 2' centers. What size is that LVL?
Barnbuilder
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Ok I found its 15' x 40'. Could probably have used a 9-1/4" LVL on the rear. If there was another post on the front could have used a smaller LVL there. Can't have the opening and the smaller LVL.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Seems like he spent as much as he could on those beams too!!! There was no need for them on the end walls, that was just throwing money away there. Doubling them up wasn't needed either. He could have used a 2x6 onto the side of the beam keep the wall flat for the siding and been more then strong enough. Again, it points to a spending spree without any knowledge of what was needed, or caring what it cost.
Luke'sScreenName
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Easy there killers!
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daugen
Epic Contributor
well...18 inches on center, savings of 500 bucks to go to 24 on center, so I stuck with his first suggestion. yes, this crew only knows how to build one way, as good as they know how. That was clear as soon as they started. But, I had a fixed price, which was ten grand less than the first quote. For comparable construction.
This will be twenty grand with the back closed in, which I chose to do, and extending the roof two feet on each side. That was all the money I wanted to spend on this, frankly would have been thrilled with five grand less, but I wanted to give the business to this fireman builder. And for sure, I have clearly paid more than I could have, but if I got value for what I paid, then I guess one should be content. The building can be converted into something more than a shed later.
This is quite a shed...
This will be twenty grand with the back closed in, which I chose to do, and extending the roof two feet on each side. That was all the money I wanted to spend on this, frankly would have been thrilled with five grand less, but I wanted to give the business to this fireman builder. And for sure, I have clearly paid more than I could have, but if I got value for what I paid, then I guess one should be content. The building can be converted into something more than a shed later.
This is quite a shed...
Barnbuilder
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If he used end trusses might have needed them to sit on the LVL. Hey I'm a Charlotte firefighter. I give my customers a drawing of the structure and a detail of the building in the proposal. He could have definitly built it differently to save material/labor costs but you will have a very nice building. People that do residential work do not understand pole building methods. And there are many different ways to do pole buildings. Just be happy with the GC you pick and the finished product.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
assume you meant 16" oc, 18" in not normal. I like to go 16' oc if sheathing, even if you can go 24". I just like it better for minimal increase in material.
That will be a nice sturdy building.
That will be a nice sturdy building.
LD1
Epic Contributor
yea, 18" dont work out with 4' wide or 8' long sheathing, lumber, etc.
Agree it was way overkill. Spending more money for upsizing and strengthening where it aint required isnt a good value IMO. I Could have laid 12" block, built walls with 2x12's, poured a 12" thick floor, and set my 4' OC trusses a foot apart, but where is the added value in that?
Agree it was way overkill. Spending more money for upsizing and strengthening where it aint required isnt a good value IMO. I Could have laid 12" block, built walls with 2x12's, poured a 12" thick floor, and set my 4' OC trusses a foot apart, but where is the added value in that?
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Technically it's 19.2 inches for spacing if you want to be somewhere between 16 inches and 24 inches. I tend to call it 18 inches, but that's just a bad habit of mine. If you look at a decent steel tape you will see that they are marked at 19.2 inches, 38.4 inches, 57.6 inches, 76.8 inches and 96 inches. Most people don't even realize that when looking at a tape!!! 
Depmandog
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Look at it this way, Drew searched high and low to find a contractor interested in such as small project. He found two, and accepted the bid of the second contractor which was 10k cheaper. Being new to the area, perhaps he didn't have the contacts to find the perfect contractor, (defined as good, cheap and quick). The second contractor assured Drew it would be built strong and Drew agreed to the price since it was in his budget range.
I would much rather have Drew's situation in lieu of inferior materials or a lack of structural strength / or to be looking at a mud hole with no concrete wondering why the contractor isn't showing up and why you can't get him to answer his phone. Nothing worse than working with a bad contractor.
Seeing how the structure is being built, I think we all can agree the selected contractor is good and quick (so far). And since he has no cheaper quotes... is still the cheapest. Drew, I think you found the "perfect" contractor for you. Overbuilt, yes, but you can always say you planned it that way. It's the future gardeners living quarters posing as an open sided shed until the orchard becomes fully established
I would much rather have Drew's situation in lieu of inferior materials or a lack of structural strength / or to be looking at a mud hole with no concrete wondering why the contractor isn't showing up and why you can't get him to answer his phone. Nothing worse than working with a bad contractor.
Seeing how the structure is being built, I think we all can agree the selected contractor is good and quick (so far). And since he has no cheaper quotes... is still the cheapest. Drew, I think you found the "perfect" contractor for you. Overbuilt, yes, but you can always say you planned it that way. It's the future gardeners living quarters posing as an open sided shed until the orchard becomes fully established
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Also have to remember he is in prime hurricane region, not that this method will stay up either if hit by a high category storm.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Just to be clear, I'm not saying that it's a bad build, or criticizing the quality of what the contractor has done. Compared to most of the barns that people post pics of, this is easily one of the better ones. It wasn't until the comments about being overbuilt where posted that I realized just how true that was.
LD1
Epic Contributor
If he is happy that's all that matters. It ain't gonna come down anytime soon that's for sure.
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daugen
Epic Contributor
thanks guys. Yes, I'm sure it's 16 OC. Does that mean if I measure from the middle of one truss to the middle of the next one it should be 16 inches? I'm going to measure them...looks wider than that, and guess what, three trusses left over. ??
Not sure this was measured all that well...but luckily it's irrelevant, it's a shed...
Life is sure a learning experience isn't it?...
Depmandog, well recapped.
Not sure this was measured all that well...but luckily it's irrelevant, it's a shed...
Life is sure a learning experience isn't it?...
Depmandog, well recapped.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yea, on "OC" means center to center.
But easier to measure left edge to left edge....or right edge to right edge.
But easier to measure left edge to left edge....or right edge to right edge.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
The last trusses on the end will be less than 16", as you want the sheathing to go to the side of the truss, not the middle. The rest should be consistent at 16", or whatever the spacing is.
