Additional Lights without alternator upgrade

botalvr · Oct 12, 2004

Has anyone discovered the limit on how much extra power would be available on a BX2200 without upgrading the alternator?
I have already upgraded the headlights to the Blazers 50watt bulbs, and want to add some small clearance lights to shine on the edges of the deck, but I don't want to overload the thing, and I would rather spend my $200 on a toothbar than an alternator upgrade...
Thanks

surfran · Oct 12, 2004

During the Winter, I run (3) 55 watt halogen lights off my stock alternator (2 forward and 1 reverse). I typically do not run the normal lights when doing so, but do sometimes run the flashers when near the street. I have had no issues with dead batteries or any other electrical problem doing this last Winter. For what it's worth, I only move snow for about an hour at a time as my drive is not very large.

Doesn't exactly answer your question, but does give you another data point /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

sandyc · Oct 12, 2004

Before I upgraded to the hd alternator I noticed that my lights were fairly dim when going along at an idle. When I blow snow I am pretty much redlined so the stock dyno could keep up with the load.
I was and am now running four floods, a wiper, defroster and heater. If run my fourways and the stock lights as well then the output really dropped off with the stock dyno. When it is well below zero then the battery looses a lot of its umph to the cold. Not unusual to see temps well below zero here.
Guess you got to run the best for your conditions.....

bluecon1 · Oct 12, 2004

I recently installed a Curtis cab on my BX. I added two 55 watt rear and two front. I hooked up a voltmeter to my battery, turned on the factory front lights, and the meter showed a drop from around 14 volts to about 13.25. When I turned on two floods, and let it sit for a bit (half throttle), it dragged down to close to 12 volts. Turning on two more floods brought it below 12, and was still dropping before I gave up and ordered the alternator. I still had the heater to switched on. I have all sorts of charging capacity now, with the alternator.

sandyc · Oct 12, 2004

Up where you live bluecon, I would imagine that the heater gets quite a workout! Had any snow yet?

bluecon1 · Oct 12, 2004

No snow in the forecast yet, but that can change quickly. Above average temperatures now, after a "below average" summer. Now that I'm all rigged up with the cab/heat/snow blower and blade, I'll probably see a green winter. On the other hand, the construction season will be extended to pay for these toys. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Junkman · Oct 12, 2004

What brand cab did you purchase? Can you post some pictures of it???? thanks Junk.......

bluecon1 · Oct 12, 2004

Junkman, it is a Curtis Cab with the soft sides. I'll try to get some pictures tonight (keep forgetting). It installed quite easily and it is a lot better than sitting out in the cool breeze like I have done in the past, but it isn't near as nice as a factory cab on the larger tractors.

BXRICK · Oct 13, 2004

Some rough math tells you that you have a little left, but not too much.
Each 50 watt bulb uses ~50 watts / 12 volts = 4 amps * 2 = 8 amps for your new headlights.
The stock "alternator" puts our 14 amps (at a high rpm, I believe, so it's probably less at lower rpms).
The only real load without lights is charging the battery.
So, a few more amps probably won't hurt. I think 4 50-watt lights would be pushing one's luck, though.

On my BX1500, I run two 55-watt work lights (one front, one rear), a strobe light, and the factory flashers and factory headlights, when moving snow. With all that turned on a volt-meter on the battery still reads 14 volts. I figure I added about 10-11 amps.

If you're not sure (as I wasn't last winter), try to run the tractor at a high rpm without the lights on before you turn it off. I do this by clearing the snow in the parking area last, where the house floodlights are, so I don't need to run the tractor lights. Probably doesn't matter, but can't hurt to give the battery that last full charge before shutting down the tractor, especially in the winter.

bluecon1 · Oct 13, 2004

Here's a picture of the cab

bluecon1 · Oct 13, 2004

And Another

bluecon1 · Oct 13, 2004

And the Electrical Panel for lights and heater

bluecon1 · Oct 13, 2004

This is a picture of the front blade I re-vamped from a bent up rear blade I found. I took the bucket cylinder off my loader and use it as an angle cylinder on my blade. Works great, but I'm sure I could bend the loader arms if I got going too fast and hit something. Worked it all last season with no problem.

bluecon1 · Oct 13, 2004

This is a picture of a cheap winch I bought to change the angle of the snow blower chute, without having to un-valcro the cab every time. I have just completed this, so I have zero hours on it. Works well in the heated shop, we'll wait and see what it does with a bit of snow caked on it. I will probably build some sort of a cover yet. I also welded two 3/8" nuts to the chute and threaded grease nipples
in them so that I could grease the chute rotation properly.

TobyH · Oct 13, 2004

I was beginning to think that I was nuts trying to configure my rear blade to the loader arms. Nice work. I'm really getting tempted to get a welder. Great idea using the bucket cylinder to angle the plow. You don't even have to disconnect the hydraulic lines. I'm impressed!