4707

My theory on the jerky clutch. The clutch pedal is just a sensor, just like the forward and reverse shifter(if you pull up on it you can slowly release it like the pedal). The clutch is completely controlled electronically by solenoids. The reverse lever and the clutch pedal just sends a signal to it. Problem is the solenoids only work at their speed. So when you push clutch in to do something like hooking up a bucket or pallet..or whatever, when you go to re-engage it you believe the clutch pedal level is where the clutch is, but every time you push in the pedal the solenoids completely disengage the clutch but as you re-engage slowly the solenoids are catching up to you but you feel you need to let more clutch out, by the time it catches up to you its catching to quick. Clutch by wire is stupid.
It is a very common method on newer large tractors. Some are easily adjusted by the operator, some require the dealers computer. Almost all of these are multi plate wet clutches. Some can handle the temperature change of the hytran fluids better then others.
 
It is a very common method on newer large tractors. Some are easily adjusted by the operator, some require the dealers computer. Almost all of these are multi plate wet clutches. Some can handle the temperature change of the hytran fluids better then others.
Yea, I’m sure. But these are slow solenoids imo. If your quickly but delicately pulling up to do something with the loader a traditional clutch will release and engage quickly with pedal movement. These are restricted by the slow solenoids and expecting a traditional clutch.
 
I'm curious that now that this model has been out for at least five years, I bought an early loaded one,
have they made improvements or changes?
and I wonder how much the price has gone up. I thought I got a good deal for a loaded cab moon roof model with loader for 50k.
wondering if that has crept up 10k since.

when I bought mine a comparable JD was 20k more, granted a very nice 5R series.
Pretty sure I would have been happy with either, but it was either a used tractor or a new
cutting edge one I could afford, with a local dealer warranty.

I always figured my lack of finesse with the electronic clutch was due to operator error.
I had three other tractors with hydro or plain manual. Driving a Grand series Kubota with all their electronic
hydro aids is a real spoiler. I simply got in that and drove. The Massey I had to figure out.
 
I was curious on price for a new 4707 too, so I looked on TractorHouse.com to see what they were listed for. This seems to be the best price at $65,000


One place has one listed for $74,000 I'm not sure if there is $10,000 worth of upgrades, I just looked quickly at the numbers.
 
Bought my '21 exactly four years ago this month. It has the FL loader with self-leveling and the deluxe cab with air ride seat. Got it for just over $61k delivered.

Last month I saw essentially the same thing (less self-leveling) for $71k before tax.
 
Used the 4707 to unload cages of concrete panels the other day.
 

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Four years and a little over 200 hours later, my '21 4707 still has a jerky clutch, but I mitigate it by not using it very much and only when necessary. As a previous poster said, just use the reverser and the button on the shifter.

As far as the 3pt issue, my tractor initially had it pretty bad. The dealer sent a tech out a couple times and could not fix it, so they eventually loaded it up and took back to their shop for a week or so and when I got it back, it worked quite a bit better. Not perfect, but almost.

The hood still won't stay up when lifted, but I guess it's going to be that way as long as I own the tractor.

Having said all that, this is the best tractor I've ever owned or operated and I look forward to every time I hop in it.
Just read your post. The clutch problem sucks. I bought a used 4710 that did the samething. I didn't notice it on the lot because it didn't happen until it warmed up. Anyway, I spoke with a youtuber that got his fixed and the Agco rep in my area. They both said, get a software update and recalibrate the trans and the clutch. My dealer took care of the on this and fixed it because I'd just purchase the tractor not to long ago. Mine clutch is smooth as silk now. Hope this helps you out.
 
Just read your post. The clutch problem sucks. I bought a used 4710 that did the samething. I didn't notice it on the lot because it didn't happen until it warmed up. Anyway, I spoke with a youtuber that got his fixed and the Agco rep in my area. They both said, get a software update and recalibrate the trans and the clutch. My dealer took care of the on this and fixed it because I'd just purchase the tractor not to long ago. Mine clutch is smooth as silk now. Hope this helps you out.
How many hours on your “smooth” clutch now?
 
How many hours on your “smooth” clutch now?
Not enough for me to turn cartwheels. Some people would've lived with it but I've operated a lot of equipment during my time on earth and I'm old, picky and few other choice words. Mine had just a little grab when trying to hook up to an implement. Just enough to make it where I have to hold the brake a little when I got about and inch or so away from connecting.
I did speak to a you tuber "DLH Farms" that got his fixed the same way and it's been a few years and he said it fixed it. I can only hope I'm as lucky.
 
Just read your post. The clutch problem sucks. I bought a used 4710 that did the samething. I didn't notice it on the lot because it didn't happen until it warmed up. Anyway, I spoke with a youtuber that got his fixed and the Agco rep in my area. They both said, get a software update and recalibrate the trans and the clutch. My dealer took care of the on this and fixed it because I'd just purchase the tractor not to long ago. Mine clutch is smooth as silk now. Hope this helps you out.
That's good to hear. I'm not going to bother with talking to anyone about it, as it's an issue I can sort work around, but I'm glad there is a fix.
 
High winds were peeling sheets of tin roofing off the old barn today, so my dad, my son and I used the 4707 with a homemade man lift box to pull a bunch of sheets off.
 

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High winds were peeling sheets of tin roofing off the old barn today, so my dad, my son and I used the 4707 with a homemade man lift box to pull a bunch of sheets off.
Massey to the rescue!
sorry you had the damage
wind around here has been nuts but worse further North, right where you are
 
Eddie, that was fun.
you normally don't get to hear your own tractor
I think because you speeded it up sounds a little odd, more like
a hungry vacuum cleaner
sure got the job done
my memory is just the quiet interior and kind of a purr from the engine
 
I think it was 40 degrees outside, but it was toasty warm inside that cab!!! I just love getting things done that I would have put off before having a cab.
 
I think it was 40 degrees outside, but it was toasty warm inside that cab!!! I just love getting things done that I would have put off before having a cab.
I was a little miffed yesterday as we were dealing with the tin roof issue because even though I was in the tractor most of the time, I was freezing my ass off because I couldn't get the heat to work. Then my son hops in the cab to warm up a little and he says, "Rev it a little higher."

Yep, that worked. Finally had heat after a few hours, LOL.
 
I think you all will find this interesting
AI now goes out to hunt down anything on the internet and here's what Google says
about boosting the hp on the 4707 engine to 100hp.
At the time, if I had more acreage and needed a bigger disc, might have done it.
But surely not during warranty.

Experience with increasing the Massey Ferguson 4707's horsepower from its standard
75 HP to 100 HP is generally positive, with users reporting it "wakes the tractor up significantly". Owners often pursue this upgrade because the 4707 shares the same 3.3L 3-cylinder AGCO Power engine as the 100 HP 4710 model.

Key Performance Outcomes

  • Throttle Response: Users report that tuning allows the turbo to spool faster, eliminating the "gutless" feel at low RPMs common in the stock configuration.
  • Task Performance: Increased power makes the tractor more effective for demanding chores like pulling 15-foot batwing mowers on hills, where the stock 75 HP may struggle in thick grass.
  • Fuel Efficiency: Some ECU tuning solutions claim a 10% reduction in fuel consumption alongside the power gains.

Methods and Costs
  • ECU Remapping: Professional stage 1 remaps can increase power to 100 HP and 360 NM of torque safely.
  • Tuning Boxes: Options like the P-Tronic PT-A-28021 offer a "plug-and-play" increase to roughly 93–95 HP.
  • Typical Cost: Owners estimate the cost for hardware or software tuning at approximately $1,800 to $2,000.

Critical Considerations
  • Warranty Risks: Modifying the engine typically voids the factory warranty, which is a primary reason many owners wait until the warranty expires before tuning.
  • Hardware Differences: While the base engine is the same, there are debates regarding whether the factory 100 HP 4710 uses larger injectors or different cooling components compared to the 4707.
  • Emissions Advantage: A notable benefit of the 4707 is that it uses a DOC system rather than a DPF or DEF, allowing for a power increase without the emissions-related maintenance found on the larger 4708–4710 models.
 
A lot of guys in the FB Group for the 4700 Global Tractors have increased their HP. Most have had good results, but a few said they couldn't tell the difference. I'm not sure if they actually got more HP or if they bought a bad program that didn't work.

I've thought about it, but I really don't need any more power than what I have, and I like the idea that my engine isn't being pushed to its max when I'm using it. I can mow everything on my land without bogging down while pulling a 12 foot batwing, and I could mow a lot faster if I could handle the bumps and dodging the trees. I'm very comfortable mowing at 2.6 mph. Over 3mph and things get CRAZY!!!!!
 
A lot of guys in the FB Group for the 4700 Global Tractors have increased their HP. Most have had good results, but a few said they couldn't tell the difference. I'm not sure if they actually got more HP or if they bought a bad program that didn't work.

I've thought about it, but I really don't need any more power than what I have, and I like the idea that my engine isn't being pushed to its max when I'm using it. I can mow everything on my land without bogging down while pulling a 12 foot batwing, and I could mow a lot faster if I could handle the bumps and dodging the trees. I'm very comfortable mowing at 2.6 mph. Over 3mph and things get CRAZY!!!!!
A lot to be said for slowing down and being easy on your equipment. Much nicer to keep your butt in the tractor seat, rather then out wrenching on the equipment that got broke from pushing it.
 
I've thought about it, but I really don't need any more power than what I have, and I like the idea that my engine isn't being pushed to its max when I'm using it.
Same here. 75hp works for me for what I need and I have added confidence that I'm not pushing the engine any where close to its limit.

It's part of the reason why I like the TYM 2515, as it is essentially a detuned 36hp engine running at 25hp, far away from its limit.
 

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