4707

   / 4707 #541  
Those valves come unpainted. Looks like it just sat outside after they installed it. You'd think a dealer would slap some paint on it though.
 
   / 4707 #542  
well, you sure got experience in powerwashing your tractor after that...
I didn't think you could get those Trelleborg radials stuck
well, if you're going to do it...
sure is a nice looking tractor though
I had a bit of a learning curve and looks like others do too

MM, that part looks nasty.
 
   / 4707 #543  
alright I just needed practice with the loader, i was able to push myself out.

Anyone know whats going on with this 3rd remote? It looks like they took it off another tractor used rather than install a new one. The handle inside also looks like its from a different model

View attachment 749065View attachment 749066

Whilst I don't have one on my tractor, I poked around on Tractorhouse for a few ones listed with 3rd valves and they don't look that bad or have those Husco hydraulics stickers on them. If it were me, I'd definitely bring it up with the dealer. Wondering if they are having trouble sourcing original parts from the factory and are using alternatives perhaps?

Either way, for the cost of these tractors, I would bring it up.


Here is one I found on Tractorhouse - doesn't look anywhere close to yours in terms of the rust or stickers:
1654701233581.png
 
   / 4707 #544  
Husco is the brand of the valves that Massey Ferguson uses on these tractors. They also use that brand on the 2600H series as well. That picture is a tractor that most likely had a factory installed 3rd remote so it was painted at the factory.
 
   / 4707 #545  
Husco is the brand of the valves that Massey Ferguson uses on these tractors. They also use that brand on the 2600H series as well. That picture is a tractor that most likely had a factory installed 3rd remote so it was painted at the factory.
Ahh that makes sense! I wonder why Husco doesn't at least have a basic protective layer of paint on them from their factory?
 
   / 4707 #546  
Ahh that makes sense! I wonder why Husco doesn't at least have a basic protective layer of paint on them from their factory?
That is a good question. If memory serves the few valves and valve components I've purchased from them have been painted black in years past.
 
   / 4707 #547  
Has anyone been able to find a good fault code list for these tractors? I'd love to know what a couple fault codes are that I've seen during PTO engagement.
 
   / 4707 #548  
Has anyone been able to find a good fault code list for these tractors? I'd love to know what a couple fault codes are that I've seen during PTO engagement.
I have not, curious what your codes are?
 
   / 4707 #549  
When I started my bush hog the other day when the tractor had only been running about 5 minutes I got h 5 with 500028 below. It shut the pto off when it logged the fault so I flipped the switch off and on again and it started up fine and ran normal. I mowed about 2 minutes with it and cut the pto off and waited for the cutter to stop spinning and started the pto again and all was fine. I start the pto at about 1100 engine rpm. This is my 12' batwing cutter and my 4710.
 
   / 4707 #550  
Hooked my Deere MX10 rotary cutter to my 4707 on Thursday. Kicked the pto on at like 1300rpm, killed the tractor. Rev’d it up some more, kicked it on, tractor made a bunch of racket under the cab, threw a code, and kicked the pto off. Called the dealer, they came and got the tractor (90 miles for them) within 24hrs.

They say the mower is just too big for the tractor. Deere recommends minimum 60 pto hp for the lift type mower that I have. 40 pto hp for a pull type. I have a hard time believing that the tractor can’t even spin that mower with no load. I didn’t figure it would be ideal, but thought it would work OK for mowing approaches, and Ran it on a 3020 gasser for years with no issues.

Dealer is doing a good job of taking care of me… but this one has me scratching my head a little.
Mine will die sometimes with the big stuff. I get around 1200 rpm engage the pto just long enough to get it moving the back out the engage it right back in while you got the shaft moving and it will usually take on off. Kinda hard to ease it in gear like the old mechanical type but it works. Sometimes it takes 2 bumps if I’m at idle before letting it completely engage
 

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