4110: Stop washing it???

[bindian]

Yep, forgot about LPS... I had a bunch of LPS stuff that went through the flood of '93... they were going to throw it away... so we divided it all up amongst us... we each came out with about a case of different stuff... mostly LPS 3 and LPS 5 from what I remember... I used it all up a while ago. Good stuff!

I have only used LPS 1, 2, and 3. 1 for lubricating and 3 for corrosion prevention. I have forgtten what 2 is for. What LPS 5 used for?
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I may have to do the same thing. Problem is that I typically need to pull the Red Beast up close to the client's home... short hoses!!! ...and since I do these washes first thing in the morning, I end up disturbing the whole family if I leave it running. Sounds like I need to make a procedural change wherein I do these washes WITH the engine running... and do them right before the lunch break just to be sure!
Dougster

Dougster,
What about a rinse off at the end of the day, if you must rinse or wash it off?
hugs, Brandi

 

[xlr82v2]

I have only used LPS 1, 2, and 3. 1 for lubricating and 3 for corrosion prevention. I have forgtten what 2 is for. What LPS 5 used for?
hugs, Brandi

Brandi,

UGH.. my memory is just going down the dumps as I get older... I had to go down and get my last can from my stash... LPS 3 is what I was mistaking for LPS 5 (which might be an electrical cleaner or ??? now that I think about it... if there even is a 5.)

Here's the good stuff that I've got left, they stay in my gun cleaning kit and dont' get used for anything else. I dont' have a "source" to get this stuff now that I'm on the flying side and not on the "support" side anymore with my company.

I remember that one number was a penetrating oil, another was more of a lubricating oil, then the LPS 3 that I have here.

Have you ever used the BoeShield? I think it's great stuff for long term storage (I soak down my TC Contender and Encore barrels in it and wrap them in plastic for long term storage... seems to work great, and cleanup is fairly painless.) Kroil is some good stuff too... I wish I could get some more of the Boeshield, I don't remember where I got this can... but it is the only can of it that I've ever seen.

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, can you get ahold of a wiring schematic for your model or borrow one from a shop? I see there are several Mahindra dealers on this forum. Are such diagrams available? Electrical problem solving without a diagram is a hit-n-miss poking at wires. The schematic will show all the paths the curent takes before energizing the starter. With a volt meter or probe you then can determine where it stops.

As far as the hose being too short to be able to wash the tractor away from the house, carry a long one with you and just use that, but you still need to find the original problem

I believe the wiring diagram is either in the owner's manual or shop manual... but I am not so sure I have the tractor wiring harness smarts to do a very good trace job on a soaking wet tractor. But if it comes to that, so be it.

Yes, I should carry a long hose (or two) with me. Heck, I carry everything else I own to the dang jobsites... so why not some hose too.

Forgot to add;
Are there any other Mahindra owners experiencing moisture starting problems or just Dougster. I'm having my 5525 delivered tomorrow and it's been pouring in Seattle. I saw a guy building a huge boat in this field and was loading animals in it. So what's that mean. The tractor is in Grays Harbor and I intend to play with it, rain or not, before I tuck it away.

My Mahindra is a TYM-made Mahindra... so whatever problem I am having is likely specific to the 10-series only.

Wish we had some of your rain here. I am choking so badly on jobsite dust that I could barely sleep last night... no joke!

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Doug, It will DEFINITELY crank the engine, even if it's the starter solenoid that is bad. That bypasses all the "Modern" electronics/safety stuff they put in between the key and the starter. As long as the fuel cutoff solenoid in the injector pump is getting power with the key in the "RUN" position, it will start and run! No doubt about it! JUST BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE THING IN NEUTRAL... because when you jump those solenoid posts, it won't care what is where, it's going to try to start! Oh, and, it will make a big spark... so be prepared for it, and not suprised by it.

Also, another idea... bring a can of WD40 along with you... Next time it acts up and won't crank, start spraying WD-40 on everything that you think might be the problem... 1 at a time of course so you can isolate your problem component. It almost has to be either a safety switch or a plug.

Understood on the shorting out thang. Not really sure I want to go down that road. A roll of paper towels and 30 minutes suit me just fine. The WD-40 is another excellent approach... especially for those areas and components I cannot physically reach to dry off.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Brian, WD-40 displaces water , but it also traps and holds water . This is why a lot of airlines went to LPS products.
hugs, Brandi

Funny, but I was using LPS long before I ever saw my first can of WD-40. Now WD-40 is available everywhere and LPS is nowhere to be seen... at least up here in the NorthEast.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

I think its your ignition switch if you get no instrument lights. Have you tried key wiggling, tapping on it etc?
larry

Hi Larry - Yes, the ignition switch is a prime suspect here. That and the PTO switch. I am focusing hard on both of those components.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, What about a rinse off at the end of the day, if you must rinse or wash it off?
hugs, Brandi

Impossible at this current jobsite (we are working well past sunset at the "rockscape" project). Because of neighbor concerns, we normally start late (9AM) and end late (7PM or later).

I'm lucky I find my way back to the pick-up truck at that point.

Dougster

p.s., Yesterday, I simply kept the Red Beast running during it's mid-day wash... and it purred just fine throughout the whole thing. There is so much powder dust on this jobsite (no rain in weeks) that if I don't wash the tractor at least every other day, the backhoe makes awful grinding noises (no matter how much grease I squeeze in there). -d

 

[Grand_Pooba]

Brandi,

UGH.. my memory is just going down the dumps as I get older... I had to go down and get my last can from my stash... LPS 3 is what I was mistaking for LPS 5 (which might be an electrical cleaner or ??? now that I think about it... if there even is a 5.)

Here's the good stuff that I've got left, they stay in my gun cleaning kit and dont' get used for anything else. I dont' have a "source" to get this stuff now that I'm on the flying side and not on the "support" side anymore with my company.

I remember that one number was a penetrating oil, another was more of a lubricating oil, then the LPS 3 that I have here.

Have you ever used the BoeShield? I think it's great stuff for long term storage (I soak down my TC Contender and Encore barrels in it and wrap them in plastic for long term storage... seems to work great, and cleanup is fairly painless.) Kroil is some good stuff too... I wish I could get some more of the Boeshield, I don't remember where I got this can... but it is the only can of it that I've ever seen.

Goto Mcmaster.com they have lps and Boeshield......and everything else you could imagine. They'll have it on your door step the next day.

 

[Keith_B]

Doug, I don't have my manual in front of me (the schematic is in the back of the 4110 manual), but most likely it is the PTO switch getting wet, and triggering the PTO safety. What is likely happening is this normally open switch is shorting when wet making it a closed switch. The 4110 will not start with the PTO engaged, and thus will not start until the PTO switch dries out.

I have seen recommendations that indicate pressure washing engines is something one should avoid here on TBN. The high pressure water stream has been known to penetrate seals and mix with fluids.