4110: Stop washing it???

Dougster · Oct 3, 2007

LAWALLSTRACTOR said:
Doug, First check and clean your battery cables on both ends and see what that does. I would clean all of the connections on the starter solenoid. Try that and let us know what happens.

Battery connections are tight and like brand new. I'll clean-up the starter solenoid connections as you have suggested and see what happens.

Thanks Galen!

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 3, 2007

Tim_in_IA said:
Dougster I am cleaning up my old crawler and 300 as well and I pressure washed them. Guess what? Neither of them run now. So far I have pulled the dist on the crawler and it needed many parts replaced from age and water. Don't know on the 300 yet. They both turn over though, just no 6 volt positive sparky

Well Tim, now I don't feel so all alone!

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 3, 2007

xlr82v2 said:
I see... I was thinking that you were doing all your washing at home... I can see that it would be kind of embarrassing when/if your tool doesn't come to life and perform as expected

Correct! It is not the best way to impress a client... but sometimes the Red Beast ends up so insanely dirty on multi-day jobs that I have no choice but to pause for a quick wash... and then (ideally) take a lunch break while it dries out!

Dougster

bindian · Oct 3, 2007

Georgia Boy said:
Leave it running when you wash it and when you get to the short you will know it.

Dougster,
Georgia Boy got me to thinking. Each time I wash my 6520 it had been running wide open throttle while working , so I leave it idling during the bath to cool down. The side panel keep the hot engine and muffler from getting water directy on them. This way I can move the FEL and BH to where it is easier to wash. But if it isn't even going click. It has to be in a saftey switch. My neutral switch is open to the breeze. Do you get a neutral light when it is wet and does not start and you turn the key on??? If so, it is probably the neutral switch. You might try spaying the switches with a protective coating.
hugs, Brandi

ridefst · Oct 3, 2007

If you're at the site and really need it to start _now_ you could always use a screwdriver to short out the two connections on the solenoid.
This _will_ crank the engine; so be absolutely sure it's in neutral, pto off, etc first.
Not sure if this tractor has an electrical solenoid to shut the fuel off; that could still be a problem; I'm more used to the old stuff that has a mechanical fuel cut.

shvl73 · Oct 3, 2007

Dougster, I wish you luck. I've yet to have that sort of problem with mine.

Now that I think of it, I haven't washed it yet either.

I hope Bill6 doesn't read this.

LAWALLSTRACTOR · Oct 4, 2007

Doug,
Do you have instrument panel lights when you turn on the ignition switch?
Also the 4110 doesn't have a neutral safety switch, instead it has a clutch switch located under the dash panel. Let us know.

Dougster · Oct 4, 2007

bindian said:
Dougster, Georgia Boy got me to thinking. Each time I wash my 6520 it had been running wide open throttle while working , so I leave it idling during the bath to cool down. The side panel keep the hot engine and muffler from getting water directy on them. This way I can move the FEL and BH to where it is easier to wash.

I may have to do the same thing. Problem is that I typically need to pull the Red Beast up close to the client's home... short hoses!!! ...and since I do these washes first thing in the morning, I end up disturbing the whole family if I leave it running. Sounds like I need to make a procedural change wherein I do these washes WITH the engine running... and do them right before the lunch break just to be sure!

bindian said:
But if it isn't even going click. It has to be in a saftey switch. My neutral switch is open to the breeze. Do you get a neutral light when it is wet and does not start and you turn the key on??? If so, it is probably the neutral switch. You might try spaying the switches with a protective coating.
hugs, Brandi

I don't believe I get any lights until after the Red Beast starts, but I'll recheck that this morning. I do think it is a safety interlock. Probably just a matter of figuring out which one is shorting.

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 4, 2007

ridefst said:
If you're at the site and really need it to start _now_ you could always use a screwdriver to short out the two connections on the solenoid. This _will_ crank the engine; so be absolutely sure it's in neutral, pto off, etc first. Not sure if this tractor has an electrical solenoid to shut the fuel off; that could still be a problem; I'm more used to the old stuff that has a mechanical fuel cut.

Yeah, I'm not so sure think this would work on a modern unit.

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 4, 2007

shvl73 said:
Dougster, I wish you luck. I've yet to have that sort of problem with mine. Now that I think of it, I haven't washed it yet either. I hope Bill6 doesn't read this.

Bill6 is my "clean machine" hero... but it is very difficult to meet his high standards when on a jobsite. Bill6 would cry if he saw my machine after three days working in the dirt and dust without a wash.

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 4, 2007

LAWALLSTRACTOR said:
Doug, Do you have instrument panel lights when you turn on the ignition switch?

As per my answer to Brandi... I don't believe I get any dash lights on the 4110 until after the machine starts. I will recheck this morning at the jobsite. I'm old... and my memory could be foggy on that fact.

LAWALLSTRACTOR said:
Also the 4110 doesn't have a neutral safety switch, instead it has a clutch switch located under the dash panel. Let us know.

Okay. I actually thought it had both. Thanks for clarifying that!

Dougster

magyarbacsi · Oct 4, 2007

Dougster, can you get ahold of a wiring schematic for your model or borrow one from a shop? I see there are several Mahindra dealers on this forum. Are such diagrams available? Electrical problem solving without a diagram is a hit-n-miss poking at wires. The schematic will show all the paths the curent takes before energizing the starter. With a volt meter or probe you then can determine where it stops.

As far as the hose being too short to be able to wash the tractor away from the house, carry a long one with you and just use that, but you still need to find the original problem

magyarbacsi · Oct 4, 2007

Forgot to add;
Are there any other Mahindra owners experiencing moisture starting problems or just Dougster. I'm having my 5525 delivered tomorrow and it's been pouring in Seattle. I saw a guy building a huge boat in this field and was loading animals in it. So what's that mean. The tractor is in Grays Harbor and I intend to play with it, rain or not, before I tuck it away.

xlr82v2 · Oct 4, 2007

ridefst said:
If you're at the site and really need it to start _now_ you could always use a screwdriver to short out the two connections on the solenoid.
This _will_ crank the engine; so be absolutely sure it's in neutral, pto off, etc first.
Not sure if this tractor has an electrical solenoid to shut the fuel off; that could still be a problem; I'm more used to the old stuff that has a mechanical fuel cut.

Dougster said:
Yeah, I'm not so sure think this would work on a modern unit.

Dougster

Doug,

It will DEFINITELY crank the engine, even if it's the starter solenoid that is bad. That bypasses all the "Modern" electronics/safety stuff they put in between the key and the starter. As long as the fuel cutoff solenoid in the injector pump is getting power with the key in the "RUN" position, it will start and run! No doubt about it! JUST BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE THING IN NEUTRAL... because when you jump those solenoid posts, it won't care what is where, it's going to try to start! Oh, and, it will make a big spark... so be prepared for it, and not suprised by it.

Also, another idea... bring a can of WD40 along with you... Next time it acts up and won't crank, start spraying WD-40 on everything that you think might be the problem... 1 at a time of course so you can isolate your problem component. It almost has to be either a safety switch or a plug.

shvl73 · Oct 4, 2007

magyarbacsi said:
Forgot to add;
Are there any other Mahindra owners experiencing moisture starting problems or just Dougster. I'm having my 5525 delivered tomorrow and it's been pouring in Seattle. I saw a guy building a huge boat in this field and was loading animals in it. So what's that mean. The tractor is in Grays Harbor and I intend to play with it, rain or not, before I tuck it away.

I haven't heard of any others. The 5525 is a completely different machine and has no commonality with the 10 series tractors. You should be fine.

bindian · Oct 4, 2007

xlr82v2 said:
Doug,

Also, another idea... bring a can of WD40 along with you... Next time it acts up and won't crank, start spraying WD-40 on everything that you think might be the problem... 1 at a time of course so you can isolate your problem component. It almost has to be either a safety switch or a plug.

Brian,
WD-40 displaces water

, but it also traps and holds water

. This is why a lot of airlines went to LPS products.

hugs, Brandi

SPYDERLK · Oct 4, 2007

I think its your ignition switch if you get no instrument lights. Have you tried key wiggling, tapping on it etc?
larry

xlr82v2 · Oct 4, 2007

Yep, forgot about LPS... I had a bunch of LPS stuff that went through the flood of '93... they were going to throw it away... so we divided it all up amongst us... we each came out with about a case of different stuff... mostly LPS 3 and LPS 5 from what I remember... I used it all up a while ago. Good stuff!

coffeeman · Oct 4, 2007

xlr82v2 said:
Doug,

It will DEFINITELY crank the engine, even if it's the starter solenoid that is bad. That bypasses all the "Modern" electronics/safety stuff they put in between the key and the starter. As long as the fuel cutoff solenoid in the injector pump is getting power with the key in the "RUN" position, it will start and run! No doubt about it! JUST BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE THING IN NEUTRAL... because when you jump those solenoid posts, it won't care what is where, it's going to try to start! Oh, and, it will make a big spark... so be prepared for it, and not suprised by it.

It almost has to be either a safety switch or a plug.

Once it's in the run position, would a volt meter confirm if there is power to injector pump? Could a wet nicked wire cause a short to ground?

Just a random thought. Don't know if it would mean anything with this problem.

Cheers

SPYDERLK · Oct 4, 2007

xlr82v2 said:
Yep, forgot about LPS... I had a bunch of LPS stuff that went through the flood of '93... they were going to throw it away... so we divided it all up amongst us... we each came out with about a case of different stuff... mostly LPS 3 and LPS 5 from what I remember... I used it all up a while ago. Good stuff!

Whats LPS-5? I only know 1-3.
Larry