336D injectors

[Car Doc]

Hey Vern looks like you are making good progress!

The carbon build up is very likely just the result of the cylinder not firing properly is all. If you are taking it into a machine shop anyway dont do anything to it other than maybe remove the pre-chambers. And thats not even an issue as long as they remember to give them back. They will vat it and grind seats and valves and you will be set.

Get ALL the seals for a valve job the machine shop will need the valve seals! Hoye will probably include them anyway but get the copper rings that go under the pre-chambers and the plastic washers that go under the injectors. (if you dont have new ones already)

I would check the liners in the mean time and make sure they are all sticking up the same about .005"-.007" (if I remember right) and get it all cleaned good, see my pic thats what I am doing there with the straight edge.

edit: The more I get to thinking Vern I am not so sure it wouldn't be in your best interests to go ahead and re-ring it while its down and really know what you've got, for the money it wont be that bad the reward may be substantial.

I probably would if it was mine fwtw just because thats me but I am just throwing that out it is a pretty simple task at this point. Getting the front drive shaft out is the only thing in the way and thats no biggy just ask us and we can tell you how to do it w/o any surprises.

 

[Vern]

Been working out of town - Machine shop called, sounds like all the exhaust valves, guides, and seats need replacing. I am taking the parts manual with tomorrow to make sure I order everything right.

What would cause all the exhaust valves to go bad?

 

[Car Doc]

Just normal wear these dont have hardened seats either which would add longer life at least mine didnt and my seats were worn so wide they covered the whole valve.

And that equates to a seat that isnt working properly. The seat needs to be a bit over 1/2 of the valve face and be at the top 1/3rd with a margin on the chamber side to cut carbon.

 

[Vern]

I took the parts manual over to the machine shop this morning to make sure I ordered all the right parts. I do not need seats - need both exhaust and intake valves and guides and all seals. Placed the order with Hoye this morning along with all the other parts and service manual.

 

[Car Doc]

I took the parts manual over to the machine shop this morning to make sure I ordered all the right parts. I do not need seats - need both exhaust and intake valves and guides and all seals. Placed the order with Hoye this morning along with all the other parts and service manual.

Sounds like you will be back to motivating in no time at all! :thumbsup:

 

[grainger12002]

awesome Vern, you should be right back in action once the shop has the head together. Looking forward to the finshed part of the thread !!

Sure you are too .....

 

[Domush]

Vern,

Can you post a few pictures of the block with the head removed, so when I get around to my head removal I know what I should be shooting for? Also, did you have any issues getting the exhaust manifold off? The bolts for mine seem barely existent, let alone hex shaped.

Thanks. Can't wait to see the pictures of the before and after valves and final compression tests.

 

[Vern]

Just received the parts yesterday so dropping them off to the shop this morning. i will post some pictures of the block this evening.

 

[Vern]

Here are pictures of the block. It was pretty straight forward, did it without a manual, hope it helps. I would take off the fel - would make it a lot easier.

 

[Vern]

Head back from the shop, looks great!! started assembly but torque wrench only goes to 70lbs need 120. I will pick one up tomorrow and have it running this weekend.

 

[Car Doc]

Looks great Vern I bet it will run great too!

Interesting fact I noticed in the pics your cyl head casting is the same as mine-3t90. I like that it means they are maybe more common if I ever need one.

 

[Vern]

Tried to check compression but my Gage from Harbor freight will not hold pressure, that's what get for going cheap. Got every thing but the exhaust and the intake back together before the rain started. Could snow tonight, can't complain, its been a mild winter.

 

[Vern]

Finished butting everything back together and started it. Middle cylinder is still not firing. Have 460 Lbs compression in the front cylinder, 250 in the middle, and 440 in the rear. Hooking up air to the middle it is very hard to hear where it is escaping, if i bump the cylinder it changes the sound of air. If I put the valve cover on it muffles the sound which leaves me to believe it is the cylinder sleeve.
Thought on how to proceed?

 

[winston1]

Reworked head, valves properly adjusted. Sounds like ring blow by. All your liners even at top of block?

 

[Vern]

Yes they are or just above - thousands of an inch.

 

[284 International]

I don't see how the sleeves could be passing air pressure in a manner that the valve cover could muffle the sound unless the head were cracked. I think it is more likely your valves are not properly adjusted or installed: if pressure is coming out the valve cover, the only way that could occur is if there is an unintended opening from the top of the head into the cylinder. It seems more likely that your valves aren't correct than there is a substantial head crack under the valve cover.

 

[careyo63]

Put some ATF or Trans fluid in the Cyl. and pump it up. It's Red and can easily be seen leaking out at the leak. Don't see it coming out of the Valves or the Valve Guide Seal your going to have to pull off the oil pan and look for the ATF leaking out through the Rings on the Piston and or leaking Down the Cyl. Wall. Again thats why I use Red ATF if you don't see it be ready to get "P,O" your be pulling the Head off again. Been there Done it

 

[Vern]

I beleive the air I am hearing is coming from the openings for the push rods, when I put the valve cover on it muffles it.
The Red atv sound like good advice, I will try that ASAP/

Thanks

 

[Car Doc]

Just my advice take it or leave it Vern and fwtw sorry to hear it. btw I mentioned tearing it the rest of the way down earlier. (I would have mentioned this next advice had you said you were tearing it clear down fwtw. I talk too much anyway its hard to get every single detail out on a post or 10)

I have seen quite a few engines that have ran with bad valves. More often than not if they have ran a looong time missing they will wear the ring grooves out in the pistons and rings wont fix it. It will need a new piston and rings on the one cyl.

As easy as these are pulling it back down at this point and re-ring all and pay real close attention the the ring grooves on #2 I think you will see what I am talking about all the pour in junk in the world will not make it run right. hth

 

[Vern]

I figured it would be another tear down. But I have a question - can the pistons be removed from the bottom of the oil pan or do they have to come out through the head?

Thanks