2 post or 4 post vehicle lift ideas

[Too many Kubotas]

If they are always resting on the tires how would you replace them? I haven’t had a problem lifting vehicles to service them in the last 62 years I have been doing it

Surely you are attempting to be funny here.

There's difference between using the included (or other jack) to change a tire, or a lift to perform work on vehicles, compared to long term storage on a 2-post.

I've never had issues with lifting vehicles either, especially not since buying the 10-ton crane, but that doesn't mean vehicles don't flex when not supported by the tires.

And to clarify it especially for you, or on bare rims.

 

[Code54]

I currently have a smaller two post lift. I am shopping for a 4 post. The two post is fine but sometimes the arms dont really extend to where I really need them so I need to reposition the car. It is totally useless for my tractors and sometimes (often) a challenge for my side by sides and ATVS.
I dont have any plans on pulling truck cabs so the four post (I believe) will be more functional for me. I have a gantry crane in the shop and can borrow an engine lift for my buddy if I would ever need it. I find I use my lift for maintenance 99% of the time because we have fairly new machines. My two post has never failed but I have to admit I am not super comfortable under it and always checking the balance of the vehicle and thinking about "if I pull this off, will the balance point shift."
As for rotating tires and brake work I will have a jack pan or roller on the 4 post. I often find that to just rotate tires I can grab the big floor jack and lift one side of the vehicle and change them almost as quick as putting it on my two post and checking everything. Honestly I also dont want to lift the tires very high so the jack and a stand allow me to keep the tires about 2" off the ground so there is not a lot of lifting.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Honestly I also dont want to lift the tires very high so the jack and a stand allow me to keep the tires about 2" off the ground so there is not a lot of lifting.

Oh, c'mon. With the lugnuts at eye level it's so easy to see them.

Alright, this was not for tire changing or service, but to wash Colorado's finest magnesium chloride off of the chassis. Using only the little 8K crane.

Would I want to leave the vehicle like this for extended periods? Of course not. But it probably wouldn't be any harder on it than sitting on a 2-post.

 

[aircommuter]

Surely you are attempting to be funny here.

There's difference between using the included (or other jack) to change a tire, or a lift to perform work on vehicles, compared to long term storage on a 2-post.

I've never had issues with lifting vehicles either, especially not since buying the 10-ton crane, but that doesn't mean vehicles don't flex when not supported by the tires.

And to clarify it especially for you, or on bare rims.

Long term storage is wasted space with a lift. For one thing you can’t use it. It is also in the way for other work.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I agree.

 

[aircommuter]

Surely you are attempting to be funny here.

There's difference between using the included (or other jack) to change a tire, or a lift to perform work on vehicles, compared to long term storage on a 2-post.

I've never had issues with lifting vehicles either, especially not since buying the 10-ton crane, but that doesn't mean vehicles don't flex when not supported by the tires.

And to clarify it especially for you, or on bare rims.

They flex when supported by the tires when you’re driving anyway.

 

[SteveS42240]

I have built a new "shop" and am looking at lifts for it. All of the 4 post lifts I have looked at have a ramp to drive on. I prefer the openness of the 2 post and that is what I plan on going with. And as someone else said, I'm going with a 12K lift for security.
Steve

 

[mslaw1]

I'm considering a 4 post for a lot of the reasons mentioned above. I'm not securing it to the floor so I can move it around. Some take 120 and some 220volts. I'm planning on working on a few project cars and will have a moveable jack for supporting the vehicles while I do brake and rear bearing replacement.

Just a couple of other thoughts and things to consider that I did not see mentioned. Consider mounting the doors so the swing in. They are more secure. You didn't say which way was north but I limited my northern exposure as the cold wind comes right in those 12' doors.

Thank you for your service and congratulations on a nice shop.

 

[Dukeisok]

I have an 11k 2 post asymmetric lift that I use all the time. I bought mine off Amazon (risky but has worked out). It's a Triumph and I paid 2700. I have a 30x50 shop. I mainly do vehicle maintenance, so brakes, tires, oil changes... a four post lift would not have suited my needs. I've lifted everything from a golf cart (quite difficult to get it positioned with the pads under the frame rails) to my f350 and a skid steer. I chose an open top, which came in handy with the skid steer, and allows me to use all tge 16 foot building height, though the floor cables are a not of a pain they have not precluded any with I needed to do. I planned the garage with the lift in mind (the concrete specs matter). For my lift, 4000 psi concrete 6 inches thick was sufficient. We dug a continuous footer then poured the entire floor 6 inches thick 4000 psi fiber reinforced pump mix (because of building location, hard to get a mixer backed up to it). I had the electrician run a 30 amp drop to it. I installed the lift on a Sunday afternoon. The instructions were nonexistent, but it was straightforward enough that I figured it out. I installed the lift in a straight line to the door close enough to the back wall that I can reach my wall mounted tools to work under the hood.

It worked for me and I would do it again.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

They flex when supported by the tires when you’re driving anyway.

Jeez. Yes, just like they are engineered to.

 

[bobgson]

I have a 10K regular and 7K asymmetric Mohawk 2 post lifts. When I bought these lifts I also bought the Tire Engaging Adaptors which allow me to pick up the vehicle by the tires. Also I have 2 old 4 post walker cable lifts from the 50's that someone removed the ramps. We drive the car onto the lift and use a 4x4 wood across the rails to hit the control arms. 3 of my lifts are used for storing 6 cars. The 4 post's take up way more floor space. I also use a pair of 2x12's with a steel flange with pipe to go in where the lift pad is removed to lift ATV'S, riding mowers, and anything else I want to put up to get to working height. I would do 2 post over 4. I'm finishing up a frame off RESTORATION on a 66 GTO and it was very simple to remove the body from the frame and to install it. I have also used it to remove motorcycle tires by lifting it with straps. I would recommend using concrete bolts instead of the studs that are not removable if you need to change your floor plan in the future. I'll have to say I looked at many brands of lifts and by far the Mohawk are the best, but you'll see that when you check out the prices. I've bought 4 , 7A, 2 9K, 1 10K. These were purchased in 1996 and the only thing I replaced was the switch on one lift that is used to raise the car. These lifts have mechanical and hydraulic safety locks. There are only hydraulic steel lines that can be extended to the ceiling if necessary for cube Van's. The other feature that no other lift has is you can lift and lower the right side independently. Nice feature for draining radiators. I also bought a gauge that measures the weight of the vehicle.

 

[MFowner]

I never heard of a rolling jack before. I think that would make the 4 post a better choice in my opinion.

Quality rolling jacks add 50% to the price of a 4 post lift

 

[MFowner]

My 3-bay shop/garage is 40 x 26, built in 2012, with a 10k lb. 2-post lift and boy am I glad I got a 2-post. Too many things you cannot do on a 4-post. Door issue is an inconvenience only solved by a commercial lift with posts farther apart.

You have a dream shop - my only regret is I didn't make mine larger. But I did break the bank when I built mine (myself - commercial GC & EC for 40 years among other things).

In early '80's I restored old tractors for fun. In 2017 I moved to restoring old non-911 semi-rare Porsches - have 3, sold another: 914, 924 Turbo (sold), 944 S, 928 5-spd.

GN

Door hitting post is solved with an asymmetric lift. My personal choice is the Challenger Versametric 10K. Made in Louisville, KY.

 

[footer200]

I have 2 10,000lb 2 post Versmetric Challeger hoist that I really like, best of both worlds symmetric and asymmetric in one. The side post are not turned like some asymmetric ones. The motors and hydraulic reservoirs are at the top of the post out of the way. With 2 pendant controls on both sides to operate the lifts.(nice for setting the arms and being able to control the lift from both sides) I got them used from an installer that does Walmarts. I like the versatility of 2 post lifts and the little footprint they need. I have never thought or wished I had a 4 post for something, just my opinion.

 

[Williy]

This would be the lift I would purchase. To change a tire very
easy to jack up one side at a time and no trouble to open a door
and don't have to mess with placing a padded arm to life vehicle

willy

Have no idea why the 3 pic's below and can't delete them either

 

[MFowner]

This would be the lift I would purchase. To change a tire very
easy to jack up one side at a time and no trouble to open a door
and don't have to mess with placing a padded arm to life vehicle
View attachment 855765

willy

Have no idea why the 3 pic's below and can't delete them either

Lifting a vehicle on a drive on hoist is not as easy as you might think due to placement issues. And you will need to jack up 2 wheels at once (2 jacks) if you are going to rotate tires. You can do it but much easier on a 2 post lift.

 

[MFowner]

After working in the auto repair industry for 50 years, here is my 2 cents on lifts. I have used them all extensively and while both 2 & 4 post versions do have pros and cons, I chose a Challenger 10K Versametric 2 post for my new shop and here's why. The 4 post really only has one advantage and that is ease of placing a vehicle on the lift. The 4 post is more expensive, once you buy jacks to lift the front and rear end. It takes up more room and that means more steps to walk around the vehicle. A 2 post offers more access to the parts of the vehicle that you work on the most, front, rear, tires, brakes, and suspension. As for safety, proper placement is a concern on any lift, however I have not had a vehicle fall or even a scare. I lift my Ram 2500 crew cab long box for oil changes and tire work without fear. If I were removing a heavy part, like engine, trans, or rear end, I would use a safety stand for stability. As for additional time to set up for an oil change, if you follow oem recommendations for tire rotations, you will need to rotate tires at every or every other oil change and rotating tires on a 4 post is more work than on the 2 post, even if you have rolling air/hydraulic jacks, and will negate the extra set up time for the 2 post. Other than oil changes, everything you do on a 4 post hoist is harder than on a 2 post hoist due to the hoist limiting access.

 

[Dunno]

Www.Mohawklifts.com
Take a look at their manufacturing just so you can compare. Can never be too safe.

 

[90cummins]

Once you see them side by side it was obvious to me & piece of mind is important. When I bought mine it was $5k not sure what they are now. I will say if it is within your means Mohawk is your safest bet.
90cummins

 

[Rockbadchild]

you know what they say ? ... their is two ways to get friends in this world, buy a lift or buy a trailer ... maybe you should start with the lift then you would get some help to build the shop lol