2 post or 4 post vehicle lift ideas

[Dennis Mohn]

I agree with Slowpoke Slim , I would go with the 4 post just for the ability to get into the vehicle while on the lift, if need should arise. there are attachments to raise the wheels off the ramps of a 4 poster if needed and still have stability

 

[cj7]

Sorry I haven't combed through the entire thread. Had a MaxJax two post in my old shop because of limited ceiling height. I was in my 40's then so I didn't like positioning the arms, but no problem. Getting out of the doors in a two-door (Cuda) was an acrobatic chore. Those little lifts are fine if you use a rolling seat, we've pulled engines and replaced 4 speeds with no problem.

If you have the resources, I'd suggest a 4 post with rolling hydraulic jacks. I have an Atlas 409 four-post which I think is discontinued, but its extra wide for your dually and extra high with rolling jacks. I can park an Equinox under it and a Ram 2500 crew cab regular bed on it with a 13-foot ceiling height. I also have an old Atlas 408 four post but its just wide and long enough for a car (Charger). On that one I have to take the ramps off to get another car under it. In the shop we have a newer Bendpak extra high and extra wide lift. That one we've NEVER used for cars/trucks because Bendpak offers a diamond plate filler that makes it a huge height-adjustable workbench. Never intended it that way, but you will love it if you work on large heavy items. Has a tendency to collect junk though...

If you have single entry doors, I strongly suggest getting a lift with an inside-the-post clearance that is wider than your doors. That way you can't hit the posts and your mirrors at the door framing become your guide. All things considered get the highest/widest lift you need. However, if you're not going to put more than 9,000 pounds on it, save your money for other shop tools. Besides, like trucks, your buddy has a larger one that he will lend you (occasionally).

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I agree with Slowpoke Slim , I would go with the 4 post just for the ability to get into the vehicle while on the lift, if need should arise. there are attachments to raise the wheels off the ramps of a 4 poster if needed and still have stability

The only way a 4 post lift makes sense is if your going to store another vehicle under it or there is an alignment machine on the front. They have their place would not be me MY recommendation for a shop with one lift. Those four posts in your way in a smaller shop get really annoying. You want the two posts on the outside that swing in. Then you can catch the body lift points and if you want to reach the frame.

I am finding more and more that we are dropping an engine out the bottom, lifting the body and rolling the chassis out. Dropping whole rear axle, how do you do that on a four post.

They make hoists that are off set so you can open the doors........ or put it in the ground, solves the stability issues concrete thickness, posts in the way of the doors. I wish I would have done it that way.

Recessed in the ground with a steal plate you can put over the top. Planned out right be my choice. And if we didn't have in floor heat I would be cutting the concrete and doing it.

 

[sd455dan]

With a two post life you have to be cafeful with GM vehicles as a
camero or firebird will bend in the middle and you can't open or
shut the doors Actually you can watch them bend if the doors are
open

willy

 

[Long Valley]

I have a 9000lb 2 post that has been real handy, although I would not try to lift a tractor on it. Even my F350 is pushing it.

I put in 6" of high psi concrete and lots of rebar.

I would put 2 doors on the same wall and one on the end. Having door on each end of the lift is a waste of a door, especially if you just want to park some vehicles in there.
How many cars are you running through there in a day that you need to drive on and drive off.

 

[ericm979]

Having a door on each end with the idea of driving through means keeping all the floor space between the doors clear all the time. That's a lot of space that's not getting used for much. Having a single door means you need to use up space in the building to position vehicles, like parking them on a slant. Or put them on wheel dollies and push them out of the way. Multiple doors to multiple bays would let you store or work on more than one vehicle at a time with a more efficient use of space.

 

[Up to the Axles]

Shop will be insulated, and wired with both 110v and 220v.

Double the number of outlets; I always install quad vs duplex. And compressed air ports.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Read through things a little more and looked at your plans. Look at insulated scissors truss.
Insulating Scissors Trusses - Fine Homebuilding. That will give you ceiling height in the middle of the building. As for the door on the end, consider moving that to the side wall next to the one with the lift. We have 12 wide 9' high doors in front of our lift and are happy. Then put your really large door on the one end. You start getting a lot of large, insulated doors they are expensive and hard to seal. And over time you're going to hate them. With the two-side door you can add another lift and still have your drive through.

As for air lines and plugs. Most guys are using battery operated so..... its the 220 line on the other end of the shop for the welder, plasma cutter and milling machine...... then if you can get three phase, three phase is your friend then all kinds of stuff get much cheaper.

In floor with hydronic make up air handler and a big old fan on the one end wall. Use 16' walls, plan for bunk house above the shower and entrance in the corner. Build the shower pan into the concrete floor/pour. Run a floor drain down the middle. Then one in front of the two doors on the side.

Look at commercial grease trap on the drain lines coming out of your shop before they go into your septic.

Off topic big time....... but spending other people's money is so much fun.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Getting really off topic. If i had to do again, i would put in a physical plant/building. Put in gas boiler, wood boiler and chiller. Then run the hot and chilled water to all the various buildings. Have power go in with transfer switch for the backup generator. Then load shed at the buildings.

 

[Al Ben]

Go to 'The Garage Journal' for a lot of owner / car guy's take n this topic . The Garage Journal

 

[Clustergear]

I have both 2 & 4 post lifts in my garage. 2 post is great for most repair work. But is not good if you plan on using it to store a car or truck on it. Put a car on a 2 post lift wheels of the ground and open a door and you’ll see what I mean. Old cars and convertibles really flex. Also removing engine or rear end from vehicle make sure you have lift floor stands as that can make vehicle tip on lift. Four post great for long term storage and very fast set up as drive vehicle on and lift no set up. If you go four post get extra wide model that will 109” between post. So you’ll be able to pass under it and won’t have to put mirrors in while a pickup on lift. I also welded up some cross beams to lay across 4 post so I can put tractor or anything that isn’t wide enough to sit on ramps

 

[Doug Vee]

I also welded up some cross beams to lay across 4 post so I can put tractor or anything that isn’t wide enough to sit on ramps

I would be interested in learning more about how you accomplished this.

 

[Grumpycat]

Took my F-150 to a friend's house to borrow his 2-post lift yesterday for an oil change. I had never lifted the F-150 before. One thing led to another and by the time we got around to it I was tired enough to not trust my judgement. Didn't feel confident as to the correct lift points, or where center of gravity was. Neuropathy makes it very hard to get down and back up. Gave up, will probably pay a shop to change oil.

So that settles it for me, my shop will have a 4 post lift.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Have an old paper version. Once you get good at it it is no big deal

Home

Automotive Lift Institute is an independent certification organization providing safety and testing for the auto lift industry in the U.S. and North America

www.autolift.org

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Have an old paper version. Once you get good at it it is no big deal

Home

Automotive Lift Institute is an independent certification organization providing safety and testing for the auto lift industry in the U.S. and North America

www.autolift.org

I keep buying the newest versions, and am often surprised by what the official points are compared to my guesses.

 

[Grumpycat]

I keep buying the newest versions, and am often surprised by what the official points are compared to my guesses.

Yes. I was tired and I wasn't going to guess wrong and have the truck fall on me.

 

[gstrom99]

I keep buying the newest versions, and am often surprised by what the official points are compared to my guesses.

My new Rotary Lift came with 2 printed lift point manuals. I don't plan on lifting any newer (than 2024) veh's, so I'll just keep these.

 

[Flogger]

In the future I will have side doors. The end doors create too many problems but 1 end door would allow longer vehicles. I have made a pledge that no shop of mine will ever again have more shelves than is absolutely necessary to store my tools. Shelving in a workshop is an invitation to a disaster. I will also build the foundation 6+ inches above the floor so melting snow and such does not pose a corrosion issue.

 

[LouNY]

I do not like doors in the sides of buildings, I guess a lot may depend on the climate you are in.
In my area with frequent storms and showers entering or exiting a building with doors in the sidewall means getting soaked, unless you install gutters which in turn leads to it's own world of issues. Getting plugged, needing to be cleaned, getting ice dammed, snow destroying them and damaging the fascia.
Snow sliding off the roof in the winter and piling up in a packed mess that needs to be removed before the doors can be opened, snow dumping on you as you enter or exit, just so much fun.
Doors in the side of a building are fine for secondary/occasional usage not every day usage.
Just my opinion developed over many years entering and exiting many different buildings under less then ideal conditions.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

IMO door location and weather has less to do with what actual side of the building you're on and more to do with what direction the bad weather comes from. Around here the bad weather comes from the northwest. So ideally you want to put your doors on the back side. Which of course i did not do. My suggestion is put your larger doors on the leeward side, smaller on the windward. Your lager wider insulated doors, by the time you add enough support to keep them from flexing in the wind they weigh a ton. Torsion springs are your friend, but you still have to install them, and getting that right is a since in itself.