Tires 1/2 full or full-up tires?

   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #1  

AKfish

Super Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Messages
5,420
Location
Alaska
Tractor
JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
My JD owner's manual states in 3-4 instances to NOT fill the rear tires or add wheel weights. Any additional ballast weight is to be removed when the hoe is re-attached.

Warning against possible drivetrain damage, premature failure, etc. etc.

I'd like to fill my rear tires to the bottom of the rear axle line. All the weight would be below the axles and not weighing on the drivetrain.

Good idea - bad idea?

Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #2  
If the manual says to not fill or add weight, I think I would follow that advice.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #3  
Don't know for sure,but 1/2 way full might not be a good thing? You go up a hill etc?
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #4  
My manual also states to remove weight when using BH as well. But I use it primely in FEL, mowing, towing mode so the benefits having filled rears outweighs the risks big time. I even noticed more stability with filled tires. I have said this before, and will say it again- Think about the forces and weight when towing trailer or not using the stabilizer of BH while digging. I betcha there is alot more forces there then having rears filled.

IMHO, I rather have rears filled from a safety standpoint- stability when using BH and driving over hills. When I am mowing, it's a much smoother ride. Of course , last but not least - more traction in soft soils, towing. If a kubota engineer is reading this, I certainly hope you can post a comment exactly what happens with filled rears with BH attached. The stabilizers takes majority of weight off the tires when in use. The ideal position I think is having tires touching ground for stability with stabilizers pushing up as much it would go but still leave full tire print on ground. I cannot even fathom possible issue of the problem associated of add on weight and BH same time. A manual should NOT state not having weights on BX with BH without explaining why. Note: the manual explains how to fill the tires with percentage and explains the forces if not using enough ballast or too much. So why not the BH?:confused:

Anyway, thanks for letting me vent and add my 2 cents.:eek:
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #5  
I think it's more of a weight issue. BH's are a very heavy piece of equipment and adding that to the weight of the tractor on the rear wheels could potentially overload the tires.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #6  
Whether the tires are empty, half, or completely full doesn't change the static loading on the axles or final drives one bit.

My guess here is that JD thinks you might be able to get yourself into a situation where you have too much traction. Between the heavy hoe and loaded tires, you could possibly generate enough tractive force to roach your hydraulic pump, gearbox, or final drive. Same with braking. If you get your rig several thousand pounds over weight spec and you rapidly slow down, all that force gets translated back through the driveline.

So my suggestion is that if you're filling the tires just for ballast in order to keep the rubber side down, you shouldn't have a problem. If you load the tires and then try to move mountains, your 110 might get fussy.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #7  
I think the guys are on the right track.
JD might be afraid of gear train damage, and I can see why.
Getting a heavier tractor moving from static to rolling has to be harder on the components. It's sort of like when you're pulling a big load... there's more strain. But then again thinking along those lines, plowing or pulling logs or FEL work etc run the same risk IMHO. Isn't that one of the things what we use our tractors for? Most of us constantly put those beasts under all kinds of stress and strain. Or maybe it's a design thing I don't see?

Personally, I can't see any disadvantage from loading the tires other than having to deal with a flat, but to me, that is not a real disadvantage, it's just something to deal with. Loaded tires and wheel weights put added weight, well, right to the ground. Unlike hanging weights on the tractor frame which puts added weight on the frame and consequently the axle bearings etc. (like a backhoe). Other than that, loading the tires is the best thing you can do for added stability and traction. I would load them full up to the top of the rim. In either case, there's a lot more weight to get going from stop whether it's hanging on or in the tires. That's the only reason I can see why they would say that.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #8  
My manual also states to remove weight when using BH as well. But I use it primely in FEL, mowing, towing mode so the benefits having filled rears outweighs the risks big time. I even noticed more stability with filled tires. I have said this before, and will say it again- Think about the forces and weight when towing trailer or not using the stabilizer of BH while digging. I betcha there is alot more forces there then having rears filled.

IMHO, I rather have rears filled from a safety standpoint- stability when using BH and driving over hills. When I am mowing, it's a much smoother ride. Of course , last but not least - more traction in soft soils, towing. If a kubota engineer is reading this, I certainly hope you can post a comment exactly what happens with filled rears with BH attached. The stabilizers takes majority of weight off the tires when in use. The ideal position I think is having tires touching ground for stability with stabilizers pushing up as much it would go but still leave full tire print on ground. I cannot even fathom possible issue of the problem associated of add on weight and BH same time. A manual should NOT state not having weights on BX with BH without explaining why. Note: the manual explains how to fill the tires with percentage and explains the forces if not using enough ballast or too much. So why not the BH?:confused:

Anyway, thanks for letting me vent and add my 2 cents.:eek:
Filled tires wheel weights and a BH sure is a lot of extra weight on the stapleizers.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #9  
I've always been told not to fill tires more than 75%.
My JD owner's manual states in 3-4 instances to NOT fill the rear tires or add wheel weights. Any additional ballast weight is to be removed when the hoe is re-attached.

Warning against possible drivetrain damage, premature failure, etc. etc.

I'd like to fill my rear tires to the bottom of the rear axle line. All the weight would be below the axles and not weighing on the drivetrain.

Good idea - bad idea?

Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I'm glad to hear the stapleizers are good un strong..

Yup... supposed to lift 9,950lbs. They'd lift the the whole show; without a problem!

I'm not inclined to argue with the design engineers and the warning's in the manual... they recommend a ballast box on the 3pt.

Have to shop around for one that someone has given up on!

Thanks for the feedback.

AKfish
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #13  
Try your JD dealer, he may have a bunch he'd be glad to get rid of. I know of at least one poster that his dealer gave him one free because he had so many in stock.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #14  
I happen to have the original manual for my older Ford 4000 and somewhere is there it talks about fill the tires to 90% with CaCl. Just read that the other day and was surprised, considering I'm always heard 75% was the norm.

Wedge
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #15  
My JD owner's manual states in 3-4 instances to NOT fill the rear tires or add wheel weights. Any additional ballast weight is to be removed when the hoe is re-attached.

Warning against possible drivetrain damage, premature failure, etc. etc.

I'd like to fill my rear tires to the bottom of the rear axle line. All the weight would be below the axles and not weighing on the drivetrain.

Good idea - bad idea?

Thanks.

AKfish

So how much weight are we talking about here? It can't be more than 100 lb per wheel. Do you think this is a big deal for the structure and drive train of your TLB?
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #16  
Weight per tire? According to charts his one rear 17.5-24 tire at 75% cap. holds 55 gals, Rimgard is about 10.5#/gal so thats about 575lbs.

Never experienced it but at high rates of speed (relative to a CUT) a 25% fill might centrifuge causing an unpleasant ride and maybe damage.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires?
  • Thread Starter
#17  
The total weight would be around 500lbs.

I wondered about the fluid swirling over the axle with rotation, too. The inertial mass or centrifical force, etc.

98% of the time, I'm in low range. I use B range for 1.9% of the time. And the 2-3 times I've ever had the tractor in C range might be the remaining 0.1%.

AKfish
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #18  
I wondered about the fluid swirling over the axle with rotation, too. The inertial mass or centrifical force, etc.
AKfish

My tires are filled to just over the top of the rims. My tractor will travel at about 20 mph, I have had no problems of any kind.
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #19  
anybody remember the old co-op tractors
they had a road gear
we had one had fluid in the tires it would do about 30-35
with the filled tires we had to throttle it back its amazing what a tire with a couple hundred pounds in it will do when the fluid quits moving
talk about a galloping gerty what a ride
only took one time to keep the speed down to under 25
 
   / 1/2 full or full-up tires? #20  
For hill stability, is it better to have the fluid only filled only to the axle line (halfway), or go for the 75%? Also, I was wondering if I should opt for tubes to be installed into my tube-less rear 33" turfs?

I'll be taking a newly acquired, used B2920 onto the slopes with an FEL and a 60" rear blade to cut some trails. I am a bit nervous about the stability and I'm thinking of even getting some 1 3/8 wheel spacers and tire chains for my turf tires to give me a little extra peace of mind (about $150 for 4 tire chains and $350 for 2 spacers).

The manual states not to put fluid in the fronts, so I was just going to put 100lb in the bucket of the loader for when I reverse down the slope, cut into the dirt with the rear blade and drag the dirt up the hill.

Any advice or comments on that setup/task would be appreciated.

David.

B2920 on turfs with FEL & Land Pride 60" rear blade...so far.
 

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