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Machine shop can repair head, so no longer need cross reference info...thanks

Does anyone happen to own a ~2010 DK35SE? My understanding is this the same as a CT335 Bobcat, which I own. I'm looking to see what Cylinder head the Kioti used as Bobcat no longer has the part available. I've been looking up various DK35SE part #'s and it looks like they changed heads/part...

Yeah, I never cracked a diesel before either, but surprisingly very similar to gas engine at least in the basics of assemble/disassembly. Definitely learning on the fly, lol.

Good point, forgot about that one...thanks.

So front axle removed and slid forward however oil pan was still a PITA. Essentially, the impeller shaft "I guess you'd call it that" that runs to the rear of the tractor interferes with the oil pan by like 1/8 of an inch. Using a pry bar I got it out (without ruining the pan or shaft), not...

After looking at all options available, I believe this is the route I will take. Looks to be 8 bolts and steering hoses (possibly) and that should get me the clearance I need, worse case, I roll the axel out of the way; best case everything stays put and I gain access to the screws I need and...

The issue is the piston top is not "pitted" it's actually metal that is melted/bonded to the piston. I might be able to grind down the piston to smooth it out somewhat, but I think I'd be looking at a problem later down the road.

Thanks, I had my brother also looking at the drawing and when he zoomed in he said roll pin as well.

Nope, retainer, spring and all other "top side" cylinder components were in place, just the valve seat itself fell into the chamber and that caused my issues.

So in doing some research it appears that if the engine overheats it can drop the seat due to expansion. I do know that there was overheating, but I don't know if it was before the seat dropped or prior and yes, we did have coolant mixed with oil, but again not sure if the chicken or egg came...

As the title says, I have the CT335 (2010) which should be the DK35....long story short, need to split the tractor to get the oil pan removed (unless someone knows how to do that without splitting, I don't see a way), I'm at the propeller shaft and the instructions are very basic: 6.1.5...

Sorry guys, shade tree mechanic over here...just went back and re-looked at the head and in fact the #2 exhaust valve seat is missing, this explains the metal, damage and lack of compression. Whew, at least I know where the metal came from, now the question of whether or not the head can be...

Sorry, yes push rod bent, slightly but still bent. My guess on the zero compression, the valve is "chipped" around the base as shown in the first of the two pics, so I'm guessing lack of compression was caused by this, but I did examine the head gasket and it "appeared" in tact, ie no blow out...

Thanks all, didn't really think about working from my back, since I'm only "concerned" with #2 this approach does make sense. As for the "metal", I've torn the head down as far as needed and nothing is missing, there is a bent rod on the #2 intake, so it is confirmed (at least by me) that the...

I'm merging this thread with another: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tractor-might-be-shot-now-working-on-compression-testing-and-have-questions.528196/ Thanks

OK guys, back and not the best news, bent rod but terrible damage to the #2 piston and cylinder. I have no idea what metal caused this, as nothing in the top half dropped, valves, springs, retainers, rods...I mean it was all there a together. My best guess at this point is the top ring on the...

Thanks, didn't know this was a thing, just figured like Really hoping not, was going to do a leak down test, but decided to just dive in since the head gasket was already a known issue...today's the day to find out.

OK, so decided to go test #1 and #3...both test at 440 PSI, so everything is working and the blown head gasket theory seems to be confirmed. Will be removing head and getting new cylinder, intake and exhaust gaskets and will report back when complete. Probably will also get the head tested for...

OK guys, I'm back and new question...trying to do a compression test per cylinder and then would move to leak down if compression test seemed reasonable. Bought a Diesel test tool, took about 2 million widgets off to be able to get to the injectors and removed #2 (easiest one to work on)...all...

Thanks, I have that one, but it doesn't go into engine disassembly like a Chilton's would have. I believe "3C 3A 4A 3B 4B Series Industrial Diesel Engines Workshop Manual Fits Daedong" is what I'm looking for, but trying to confirm that it is in fact what I think it is. As well, I believe my...

OK folks, sorry for the disappearance, but back at it. Tractor is now in garage and still runs like crap and will die under any load, including hydraulic (had to get the bucket up to move it). In getting is started to enable the hydraulics to work to lift the bucket I noticed a ton of oil...

Anything is possible, but in examining the block I didn't "notice" any cracks/leaks...then again I was really checking out freeze plugs and around the head.

I'm honestly not sure...there is an oval contraption right off the manifold that leads to the exhaust pipe coming out the bottom of the tractor, maybe that's the EGR?

Thanks for the advice...not a diesel mechanic obviously, but worked on motors forever and this is the path I was going to go down, but have to get it indoors to get started on troubleshooting....oh and more snow tomorrow so the tractor sits dead in the yard for the time being.

Nope, hadn't used just because hadn't needed it. Used it all year with no issues, don't get me wrong, the tractor has had its issues over the years, but those had been handled. Also, I don't believe the head gasket blew while cranking, more so, while I was using and I noticed the smell...

Good question...first though was freeze plugs, but checked them all an no leaking. Since I could smell it, I assume it wasn't burning it internally (could be absolutely wrong on that) but I could not find where it is going, so my thought led to rings/head gasket being the issue.

Posted in Bobcat thread, but this is a generic engine question so placing here for more feedback. Long story short, we just went into a deep freeze and a snow storm, so the tractor was needed. Went to move the tractor into "position" by the driveway the day before, tractor was hard to start but...

Overheating is a definite possibility, like I mentioned I was using it for ~5-10 minutes before I realized it was burning/smelling antifreeze. As well, I can't find anywhere where antifreeze looks to be leaking out, nothing on hoses, radiator or freeze plugs so I'm not sure where it's being...

Long story short, we just went into a deep freeze and a snow storm, so the tractor was needed. Went to move the tractor into "position" by the driveway the day before, tractor was hard to start but I just attributed to cold and been several weeks since it was last run, started, drove and turned...

Thanks all...I agree with everything that has been said with regards to repairs....the reality is I would need to make sure it holds day in and day out. It is simple enough to put a rubber pan or something underneath the radiator when not in use and monitor while it's sitting, I'm more...

Ugh...not much cheaper for used...still $800, granted cheaper than new, but not much.

Yeah I found the little tractor site as well, was calling them today to see if they have any in stock.

Thanks for that exhaausitve list...I knew Kioti/Bobcat were clones of each other, didn't realize all the others were as well. Guess time to dial for dollars and see if any of the others will fit.

Went to radiator shop, they were basically worthless but called the "repair" shop they use, and they indicated not repairable. After pulling off the radiator and really examining it....there is less than a 1/4 inch of plastic there, meaning no way to tap it that I would trust. Looking at the...

Definitely an option worth looking into, thanks for the suggestion. No cab, no heat....didn't follow the line all the way through, but I'm guessing just into the block.

I was thinking the tapping idea....not sure how that would work in the radiator as it "seems" to be plastic, at least at that connection point. New OEM radiator = $1000...Bobcat is crazy, but I might be stuck. I'll pull the radiator and see what I'm working with...maybe a shop has some ideas...

Put this in the general tractor repair section, but figured I'd link it here in case one of you Bobcat folks has had this issue and has any thoughts: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/radiator-hose-snapped.461874/

Well as the description says, was out clearing some brush and started smelling radiator fluid, checked and found this: Closer inspection revealed this: As you can see, the plastic part of the lower radiator, clean snapped off and is still in the hose. My guess is the only option is...

Thanks for the input....PTO safety would affect startup but not lights on dash, at least according to the electrical schematics....from what I read, it's switched power relay, to Control Module to Dash panel. There is a pigtail off of the Ignition that sends a "start" signal to the Control...

I have checked all of the relays on the FW....pulled them all, bench tested them and they all test out working. I did order one of each type that are incoming just in case...but I don't "think" its a relay. The main difference with mine from others....when I turn the key I get no lights on the...

I'm back and still not working....at this point I've jumped the starter and it will engage the motor. I believe the issue is my ignition switch, I've taken the switch out and tried to jump/hotwire but with no luck...mind you I did this were the ignition harness connects to the wire...

Thanks....some things are different, because that location is my ignition relay...I think there is just some terrible language translations as the same relay's are referred differently in different text. Oh well, I'll keep working it. I'm thinking it's a ground issue, but yet to find it. Thanks

Winston thanks for your feedback...this used to be a more active forum....guess the shiny new rubbed away :D One more question...I see in the electrical schematic (found one for the 335) they reference the Starter Relay, but it's not mentioned in the Owners Manual....just the 4 on the FW and...

Winston, thanks for that thread....didn't see that one in my previous searches. Unfortunately, none of the "obvious" ones have fixed my issue, was really hoping that "timing" relay was the ticket, but alas still no juice. I see from your posting of schematics that you have the service...

Just a Kioti in another color so figure I'd try here in addition to the Bobcat forum: Time for a new game of stump the chump....me being the chump. First off, I've scanned quite a few threads around same topic, and none of those have helped to fix the issue. Summary: yesterday tractor worked...

Yep, all fuses checked.....I did replace battery and inspect cables....all appeared free of corrosion, tractor is under shelter when not in use, so not much corrosion. Also, just pulled ignition/switch and tested it out....12 volts coming to switch and switch itself has continuity across all 3...

Time for a new game of stump the chump....me being the chump. First off, I've scanned quite a few threads around same topic, and none of those have helped to fix the issue. Summary: yesterday tractor worked great, used for a few hours, went to crank up this morning....dash lights come on, glow...

I posted this in the Bobcat forum, but that's getting little traffic, hope hear gets a few more eyes, as I don't think it's Bobcat specific issue: OK folks...think the problem just got more expensive....turns out the issue is in the following: #7 Bearing was shredded, that in turn caused...

OK folks...think the problem just got more expensive....turns out the issue is in the following: #7 Bearing was shredded, that in turn caused group #2 to shred and then the real issue....#1 on the base of the axle shaft there is a small (1/16 maybe 1/8 nick) and (it gets worse) #5 where it...

OK, so after some more investigating (still haven't taken anything apart as I'd like to get the parts ordered so I can fix it at once), in any event....it looks like #16 is what I need, but they also don't show the bottom/end cap that you pry off....In another video of a Kubota I think, that cap...

As the subject says, think I blew a seal (haven't looked well yet, oil all over inner tire) wondering has anyone replaced one and difficulty level? Done it on cars many times never a tractor though. Hate to have dealer do something that could be done at home. CT335 2010 FYI.

As is said, the hose broke, part # is 7188081, Bobcat online parts catalog says item not available. Is there a replacement part or new part #? I tried looking at Kioti but couldn't figure out the correct cross-reference. Any help is appreciated. JD

Used a couple of old pans I had lying around, buttoned everything back up and noticed two black washers in the pan.....I fear these go on the two side plugs but before dropping the plugs to install them would like a confirmation. They could be from some old project but I'm doubting the...

So first mow of the year and dropped the mower about an inch lower than last year. While backing up a small grade left blade caught the earth and locked up. Can't free the blade by hand, am about to take apart but wondering of the spindle/hub is toast or if there is something to look for to free...

Getting ready for this and was thumbing through the manual, it shows 11 gallons of hydraulic fluid? Is this right? I have the hst 335 and need to know if during the draining am I draining all 11 gallons? Stuff is like 35 per 2.5 gallon jug. Same on the front axle, 8 quarts gear lube? Again...

So as the topic states, this is the plan. Mower was bought used, about 10 years old and spindle is shot....so, have new spindle in hand and am removing old one....that is until I got to the blade. Backed out the bolt holding the blade to the spindle, but the blade itself screws to the spindle...

I posted this in the Bobcat forum, but thought maybe some here might have a thought as well... Guys, I just bought a used LP mower and it needs a bit of TLC, so I am painting it and figured I'd go with Bobcat Orange...I know about Valspar Autumn Crush is a good match for Bobcat Orange, but...

Guys, I just bought a used LP mower and it needs a bit of TLC, so I am painting it and figured I'd go with Bobcat Orange...I know about Valspar Autumn Crush is a good match for Bobcat Orange, but being in spray cans I look at this as more of a touch-up rather than to use it to paint a 7ft mower...

All, going to look at this mower and wondering what to keep an eye out for (guess that's generic to any used finish mower). It's 4 years old and has new blades and includes operator and parts manual. Anything else you need let me know..thanks.

Ok...got another line on an FDR1660 Land Pride mower, looks to be in good condition and it's at a local dealer so at least I have "some" recourse if he sells me a dud. He's asking $795...thoughts?

Anybody know anything about this mower? I can't seem to find much info on it. Got a line on a "new" one on CL for $800 for a 60 in and it's a drive away so would like opinions before taking a couple hour trip. Thanks

Well, pulled the trigger today...after lots or searching and research decided this was the best one for me. Mainly came down to price and dealer (both location and attentiveness). CT335 8TL Bobtach Loader GP Tires Grille Guard $19,400 All should also know, that the pricing offerings out...

Looking on Craigslist for a do-it-all CUT for a new 15AC property (RFM, FEL, Snow plow, gravel drive maint, mulching, wood work) and stumbled across this...never having heard of Branson, figured I'd come here and get yalls take on it. Thanks 2007 Branson 4720 Tractor with only 146 hours. Runs...

Tractor John Deere 750- 3 cyl diesel engine with 800 hours of use 8-speeds fwd - 2 speeds rev / locking differential / 2 wheel drive Rear P.T.O / 3-point hitch / front P.T.O. R.O.P.S. (roll over protection system) Front-end bucket loader (JD mod 70) - 5 ft Belly mower (JD mod 160) - 5 ft...

Ok...another newbie question....assuming "quality" of the cut isn't the most important thing, which is faster at getting the job done? I don't think the tractor would make a difference here, but consider it a 30-40HP CUT. I'm not talking about the putting on and taking off aspect, although...

OK...so just became the proud owner of a 15 acre property in the MD/DC suburbs. 3-4 acres are finish mowed, 5 Acre pasture, remaining pretty heavily wooded. Trying to decide what size tractor would be a best fit for me. I'm looking to Finish Mow (no trees to speak of, nice open stretches)...