Powerwasher engine will only run with choke fully engaged

[tstex]

Hello to all

I have not run my powerwasher for 2-3 yrs. So, before I tried running it, I did the following:

• drained all the gas out of both gas tank and carburetor
• cleaned gas tank
• changed the oil
• checked air filter [does not have a fuel filter], it was fine

Added 93 octane gas and after a few pulls, she started, But, it would only stay running if the choke was left in the full position. when i started to move it to the "run" position, it would start to die so I moved it back to full choke. I operated it in the choke mode for about 1-2 hrs. When I ran her again, and tried moving from full choke to "run", it started to die and when i tried moving it back, she died. It would not start again.

Since it seems to be a fuel related issue, I pulled the carburetor and did the following:

• cleaned carb (pulled main jet, and soaked in carb cleaner fluid)
• clean carb bowl & passage ways (see the enclosed video)
• pulled spark plug; it was badly fouled w a lot of blk carbon..so, cleaned and wire brushed it
• added new fresh fuel again

She started up again, but unfortunately only ran again w choke on. Did some research/youtube video's, etc, and most of them state that the main jet is clogged, causing fuel starvation. See pics of main jet, front and back...it seems fully open, yes?

I am open to all suggestions to get her running correctly.

Thank you inadvance,
tstex

 

[SPYDERLK]

Hello to all

I have not run my powerwasher for 2-3 yrs. So, before I tried running it, I did the following:

• drained all the gas out of both gas tank and carburetor
• cleaned gas tank
• changed the oil
• checked air filter [does not have a fuel filter], it was fine

Added 93 octane gas and after a few pulls, she started, But, it would only stay running if the choke was left in the full position. when i started to move it to the "run" position, it would start to die so I moved it back to full choke. I operated it in the choke mode for about 1-2 hrs. When I ran her again, and tried moving from full choke to "run", it started to die and when i tried moving back, she died. It would not start again.

Since it seems to be a fuel related issue, I pulled the carburetor and did the following:

• cleaned carb (pulled main jet, and soaked in carb cleaner fluid)
• clean carb bowl & passage ways (see the enclosed video)
• pulled spark plug; it was badly fouled w a lot of blk carbon..so, cleaned and wire brushed it
• added new fresh fuel again

She started up again, but unfortunately only ran again w choke on. Did some research/youtube video's, etc, and most of the state the main jet being clogged is the problem. See pics of main jet, front and back...it seems fully open, yes? See pics

I am open to all suggestions to get her running correctly.

Thank you inadvance,
tstex

Main jet clogged. No pics.

 

[tstex]

Main jet clogged. No pics.

yes, I added them, sorry

 

[jkmfarmer]

That's a good video. I had the same issue you're having and watched a similar video. I had the carb on 5 different times after watching the video each time. I still had the same issue. Finally took the carb to a lawn mower dealer and he put the carb in what he called a 'jewelry cleaner' for 30 minutes. It seemed to be a small steam machine. That fixed it. Good luck.

 

[ning]

My pressure washer (Ryobi gas unit, got it from HD pretty sure) has always only really run decently on half choke. I assumed that it's because it's for California and haven't looked further into it...

 

[mjonesnh]

Have had some luck with Seafoam with 4 ounces /gallon mixture. Get engine running on mixture then shut off engine, let set for a day or 2 and when cranked running like it should. This has worked on 2 engines with issues similar to yours for me.

 

[Topzide]

There is a tube that is above the fuel jet you pulled out. With jet removed, press down on the tube in carb throat for with screwdriver. In this tube are a series of small holes that need to be cleaned. The jet is just a small portion of the cleaning.

 

[WranglerX]

Had similar problem with a HF engine on log splitter.... Once I removed main jet and cleaned it, all is well....

 

[tstex]

Great feedback guys. I don't feel as bad bc I'm not the only one going thru this.

The tube above the main jet was also pulled and every hole (about 24 holes) was cleaned w a sm carb drill set. See pic. I used this on main jet too.

Did any of you guys leave gas w ethanol in your tank for a long period?

When you took the carb to the sm engine shop, did you have to remove all the plastics?

I've used sea foam in chainsaws. Like you said, you have to be very careful w it not to run too long in engine.

There's something definitely in the carb/fuel system that's blocking a full load of constant fuel. I really appreciate all your help & experience guys. Greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

[Topzide]

I"ve always used a wire fron a brush as a drill could enlarged the hole and cause issues also. Did you spray everything off with carb clean and through the holes before assembly? Just checking. When I did use ethanol fuel, was always treated with Startron. Now just use non-ethanol now that I can get locally. Worth the extra cost.


Edit; replace your air filter. It's had fuel splashed on it just from running. How did you check and know it's okay? They age out and small carbs are sensitive to airflow. Small price to pay for a new one.

 

[tstex]

"How did you check and know it's okay? They age out and small carbs are sensitive to airflow. Small price to pay for a new one."

I have 15-16 combustion bases engines, 70% w air filters, at my ranch over last 32 yrs. Changed a lot of air filters, so pretty much know when it contains dirt, pleats are bad or brittle. But for good measures, I'll change the filter too. Thanks for suggestion.

 

[dodge man]

The needle looked ok? The float doesn’t have any gas in it like it has a hole? I agree a drill bit isn’t the best for cleaning but I assume you used it to just push into the different passages and didn’t have it hooked to a drill. There could be an air leak somewhere also.

I just had the exact same problem on my father in laws tiller. Full choke to keep it running. I got it running but the fuel inlet fitting had a plastic elbow on it. It was cracked and I couldn’t find a replacement fitting, it got worse the more I messed with it and fuel was spraying everywhere. I ended up ordering a new carb, it was less than $20 on Amazon, came with a new spark plug, gaskets and some other parts. Started up and didn’t need any tuning. It should run with what you have though.

 

[tstex]

Thanks Dave...

"I agree a drill bit isn’t the best for cleaning but I assume you used it to just push into the different passages and didn’t have it hooked to a drill."

Yes, the very sm drill bits are hand used only, and if any resistance, slightly rotate drill w fingers.

Also, I saw a similar $25.99 carb that also included every add'l carb part plus a new spark plug, new air filter. New everything. I might just go that route if all the other options don't wk.

Again, appreciate everyone's help & assistance.

 

[fatjay]

Sadly, there's a reason i've been going electric as my small gas crap goes. First the weedwacker, then the blower, chainsaw, and now pressure washer.

But i've bought carbs off amazon for the pressure washer, generator, and gas mower.

Otherwise i've rebuilt them pretty easily with carb cleaner, clean it up real good, make sure the ports are open. But these days, they make getting to the carb a royal PITA.