Grading Scraper

[Too many Kubotas]

I also looked up the model number and quickly realized "Oh, a land plane".

My first thought was that a grading scraper is a belly loader type machine.

 

[Duds13]

It does!

View attachment 5489938


Different names for same equipment ...

Similar to ... brush hog, bush hog, slasher, rotary cutter ...

So I'm only partially losing my mind

 

[Fladogman]

A rear blade is much different than a "grading scraper" ... Lots of times called a "land plane", Bush Hog calls mine a "road grader", the blades are fixed ... Looks like this, and is only 60" ... Which my 25 HP SCUT with tiny 26" rear tires pulls in high range without any problems ...

View attachment 5489894

For a rear blade ... I'd also recommend a much wider than tire track blade ... Here is a 72" behind my 50" wide SCUT ... Not much extra sticking out!

View attachment 5489895

Ahh, I misunderstood what you were talking about . I don't have a landplane , just a rear blade which I use 90% of the time and a box blade

 

[sandman2234]

The Landpride GS1560 weighs 511 Lbs, with the 4 scarifier shanks ...

My Bush Hog Brand 60" doesn't weigh as much, but my Little SCUT pulls it no problem.

Shawn T. W.
Did you add those pieces of angle iron to your 3pt landplane or were they their when you purchased it? If you added them, what was the purpose?
If I continue to use my homemade landplane very much, I am going to have to replace the skids on it or weld some metal onto the runners. Mine runners started out as 3/4 x 2 inch flatbar that came off of my "Ugly Trailer" project.
David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

I am going to post a link to my old Duragrader link (call it a Dava grader)

DO NOT CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO MAKE THEM LARGER AS THE PHOTOBUCKET LINKS ARE NOT ANY GOOD.


You should be able to see them pictures on the link clear enough to see the angle iron that I used to make my skids.

Dava grader in process

A couple of years ago, I picked up a Duragrader for another member after Katrina wreaked havoc on their shop and business. While I was there, I picked up a set of blades in anticipation of building one for myself. The project got put on the back burner more times than I can count, especially...

www.tractorbynet.com

David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

Here are pictures of the sides and bottom skid so you can see them better.
David from jax

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Shawn T. W.
Did you add those pieces of angle iron to your 3pt landplane or were they their when you purchased it? If you added them, what was the purpose?
If I continue to use my homemade landplane very much, I am going to have to replace the skids on it or weld some metal onto the runners. Mine runners started out as 3/4 x 2 inch flatbar that came off of my "Ugly Trailer" project.
David from jax

For two reasons ...

#1. I wanted to reduce the amount the blade hung down, or dug in ...

#2. I wanted a longer runner to avoid the slight dips the factory (they way I bought it new) 32" runners left, so the 50" now eliminated that ... 50% longer runners!

 

[Tomtint]

Your tractor will pull a 60" with no problem. They don't weigh that much to begin with and if used correctly, don't fill with much dirt to weigh them down. You Heff want one wider than the rear tires.

 

[sandman2234]

Your tractor will pull a 60" with no problem. They don't weigh that much to begin with and if used correctly, don't fill with much dirt to weigh them down. You Heff want one wider than the rear tires.

Made me laugh!
I designed and built mine with mostly existing materials with "MORE WEIGHT" in mind as a good thing. The heavier it is, the less it bounces as you pull it too fast down a hardpacked dirt road.
Most 25-35 horsepower tractors won't even lift mine off the ground.
However, since most of these are produced by companies trying to make money off of them, and steel costs money, they are mostly built with a lot lighter material than what mine is made out of.
David from jax

 

[Shawn T. W.]

This designed for compact tractor's ...

Mines the 60" ...

 

[Too many Kubotas]

This is funny. When I see "road grader" I'm picturing a six wheeled machine with a blade near the rear tires and the front axle a long way ahead of that.

Thankfully my land plane isn't limited to road use, and I often use it as a grading scraper. Guess we've come full circle.

 

[oosik]

I pull a Rhino 950 rear blade. Weighs - 1015# and eight feet wide. All rear blades cut a full width path, only, when pulled SQUARELY behind the tractor.

My 8 foot blade ( 96 inch ) cuts a 72" to 74" path when angled to remove snow from the driveway. Same when angled & offset to pull material out of the ditch to augment the crown.

I VERY SELDOM pull the rear blade squarely behind the tractor. Most always angled and offset to move some form of material or snow. I have an 84" x 820# Land Pride LPGS. I use it to make everything smooth.

 

[WM75Guy]

I have the 60" Land Pride on my NH Workmaster 25. The quick hitch gives it some added weight for downforce. Every little bit helps at that size.

 

[RayIN]

Some 3-pt grader blade have lugs on the back of the blade so it can be off-set to one side about a foot, and matching lugs on the frame. My old Ford 6' blade has the lugs for off-setting the blade.
It was funny how I bought this old Ford blade. DW and i were out driving around one Sunday afternoon and suddenly she leaned my direction and pointed to a house back off the road. The blade was leaning against the tree and had "for sale" written on it with chalk.
I stopped, looked it over and it was very rusty but not worn at all.
I paid $60 for that blade 30 yrs ago, and it's still rusty and working excellent.
I have offset it a few times, but mostly use it centered.

 

[sandman2234]

I really could use a rear blade with angle and offset, to pull the spoils out of the ditch on the dirt road next to the property across the street. Then I look at what one costs, and realize that since 2004 when I started grading and maintaining that dirt road, I have only received $20 in cash and just recently about 70 gallons of red diesel as payment for my efforts from the people that live on that road. I also realize that the 3pt landplane was built to smooth that road and doesn't get used much anywhere else. So I hold off spending the money on a rear blade...
There is now one tractor that is owned by someone on that road, and he has a boxblade. However, a 2 wheel drive Ford 1100 is going to take a lot of time to fix that road compared to me running down and back with one of my tractors.
David from jax

 

[bridge4]

I have the woods version of the LP option shown a few posts above. I have a 38 horse tractor with filled tires, maybe 4k lbs. Unless my soil is perfect condition, it works the tractor real hard. I think the trick with the smaller tractors and these machines are just go over it again and again to get the results a big heavy tractor would in a pass or two.

Still love it, way better than a rake or a blade. All have pro's and con's, but I think the land plane with scarifies is the way to go. I am taking it out today to redo the last of my driveways/parking areas. I'll try to take some pics. I grade about 1-2 miles of the same road area with it every year, done about 3 years now and finally figuring out how to use it properly.

 

[tbarrick]

Looking to purchase a grading scraper for my Kioti 2610. Was planning on the Landpride GS1548 but then read that it should be a touch wider than rear tires which means stepping up to the GS1560. Any concerns with that model on my Kioti? Any others I should be looking at?

Thanks!

I pull a woods 60" box blade with my Kioti 4915 which is a 17-21 hp depending on what you look at, with little to no problem.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I think the trick with the smaller tractors and these machines are just go over it again and again to get the results

Yes, I tend to go up, then back down OVER what I just did, usually two trips up and back, so each piece of ground is hit four times, I'm mostly doing weed control now that I have my driveway done ... It's also better a day or three after an inch of rain ... When it's dry like this, it's tough going ...

My driveway looked like this after a weak dose of glyphosate, which I'd rather not use ... It was getting out of hand on my driveway, so I sprayed it ...

It was recommended on another forum to triple my strength, and wait another week ... So I sprayed it again!

The next time home in about 10 days it was a bit "damp" out, but I ran the land plane anyways, as that's when I had time!

You can see how wet it was here ...

Since the blades only stick down 1/2" now, they don't upset the weeds with longer roots, unless one of the little teeth hits them ... So I want to do it more often now ...

but I think the land plane with scarifies is the way to go.

I don't have them, and on a established driveway, I've read its best to leave the base layer(s) alone, and not disturb the bigger rock, and just smooth the top finish layer ... But trying to "reclaim" a driveway that is very neglected, that you may end up top dressing with smaller gravel, it seems like a good addition ... Or not dig them in very deep, like 2" - 3" ... ?

I do use my old 72" rear blade once a year to scrape the edges back, then follow up with the land plane ...

My driveway doesn't get washouts or washboards either, so it's not in very rough conditions, I'm just trying to keep it looking nice ...

 

[sandman2234]

Yes, I tend to go up, then back down OVER what I just did, usually two trips up and back, so each piece of ground is hit four times, I'm mostly doing weed control now that I have my driveway done ... It's also better a day or three after an inch of rain ... When it's dry like this, it's tough going ...

View attachment 5492756

My driveway looked like this after a weak dose of glyphosate, which I'd rather not use ... It was getting out of hand on my driveway, so I sprayed it ...

View attachment 5492753

View attachment 5492754

It was recommended on another forum to triple my strength, and wait another week ... So I sprayed it again!

The next time home in about 10 days it was a bit "damp" out, but I ran the land plane anyways, as that'

My driveway doesn't get washouts or washboards either, so it's not in very rough conditions, I'm just trying to keep it looking nice ...

Interesting, but completely opposite of the way I do it.
I run up one side, which improves the crown in the road, then I come back down the other side to move that side to the crown of the road. I keep doing that until I get tired, run out of time or it gets dark. Sometimes I just hit it once in each direction to smooth out some of the potholes.
I don't try and remove any growth. If it will grow in the roadway, I let it, as it decreases the amount of soil erosion. Got to admit your clean driveway looks better, but that wouldn't work here because a few of the people would be driving 60 mph down it , if it were that smooth!
David from jax

 

[bridge4]

I use the scarifiers for the potholes, I don't run them normally. Up down, up down! If it is muddy and wet I struggle, if I get my box full and am not going fast enough, I bog down. But today it was just right to work and it went great.