Compact sub compact?

[JTKub]

@jjeff thanks for posting your experiences with your RK unit. I've been reading up on these machines for some time and there's not a ton out there on them, so it's great to read your posts.

I recently bought it's TYM cousin, a T224 with FEL and 54"MMM. It's got a Yanmar 3TNM74F in it, setup similar to kubota, with the flywheel out front.

I hear you on the pricing. I shopped JD, Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and LS equipped with a FEL and MMM. You're talking $24K for green or orange. $20K for Mahindra. $18700 for Kioti. I was at $16K all in, out the door with my TYM. I'm still waiting on delivery and have my usual buyers remorse.. We'll see how it goes. I'll be posting up in the TYM forums for sure.

 

[dadohead]

Doesn't John Deere use cast aluminum pretty extensively? Probably most manufacturers do these days anyway.

Yes, for transaxles! Retired JD engineer here... had transaxle responsibility too. Aluminum is used because it rejects heat much better than cast iron; this is the number one killer of the transmission (that and not changing fluid). Strength is not an issue as it is easy to add adequate section. You dont hear much of transaxles structurally failing do you? Nope, they lose efficiency. Don't worry so much about engine oil service... primp on the transaxle. Most important service you can do.

Congrats on the new tractor!

 

[jjeff]

Yes, for transaxles! Retired JD engineer here... had transaxle responsibility too. Aluminum is used because it rejects heat much better than cast iron; this is the number one killer of the transmission (that and not changing fluid). Strength is not an issue as it is easy to add adequate section. You dont hear much of transaxles structurally failing do you? Nope, they lose efficiency. Don't worry so much about engine oil service... primp on the transaxle. Most important service you can do.

Congrats on the new tractor!

Understand aluminium dissipates heat much better than steel Definitely wish they'd add a small hydraulic cooler somewhere if they use cast iron. Anyways in my experience with steel and aluminum the aluminum parts or casting will be destroyed if you lost a bearing or something related to a steel component in short order. Snow drift but have you ever seen what an aluminum chain case looks like after a bearing failure on a snowmobile? I can fix steel somewhat successfully, occasionally. On the other spectrum my aluminum repair attempts is nothing but a bunch of inappropriate 4 letter words.

 

[rontaki]

>snip snip<, I also wear my free rural king tractor hat frequently with growing confidence

Like this one?

 

[JTKub]

Understand aluminium dissipates heat much better than steel Definitely wish they'd add a small hydraulic cooler somewhere if they use cast iron. Anyways in my experience with steel and aluminum the aluminum parts or casting will be destroyed if you lost a bearing or something related to a steel component in short order. Snow drift but have you ever seen what an aluminum chain case looks like after a bearing failure on a snowmobile? I can fix steel somewhat successfully, occasionally. On the other spectrum my aluminum repair attempts is nothing but a bunch of inappropriate 4 letter words.

It does seem odd that these units rely only on the hydro fan for cooling. I'm assuming there's other SCUTs that are set up like this? Of the units I looked at, the only one I can think of that had an obvious hydraulic fluid cooler was the Mahindra SCUTs.

I'd imagine the hydrostatic drive is aluminum, bolted to a cast iron transaxle assembly. I guess they rely on the ~3.6 gallons of fluid and the fan blowing on the aluminum fins of the hydro drive.

 

[dadohead]

Understand aluminium dissipates heat much better than steel Definitely wish they'd add a small hydraulic cooler somewhere if they use cast iron.

Yup...  everything is running bearings in aluminum housings anymore: automotive, motorcycles, ATV, utv, snowmobile, watercraft, etc. They run in oil; if designed right it's a non-issue. My 2000 series runs an aluminum trans housing AND a cooler. It even called for an initial 50hr service. Follow your tractor's OM. It's a big deal.

Enjoy that new tractor!

 

[JTKub]

Yup...  everything is running bearings in aluminum housings anymore: automotive, motorcycles, ATV, utv, snowmobile, watercraft, etc. They run in oil; if designed right it's a non-issue. My 2000 series runs an aluminum trans housing AND a cooler. It even called for an initial 50hr service. Follow your tractor's OM. It's a big deal.

Enjoy that new tractor!

Thanks. TYM specs a 50hr service for the engine oil/filter, transaxle oil/filters and front axle gear oil change. The nice thing is they don't spec anything fancy in terms of fluids. Just generic tractor hydraulic fluid, 80w90 gear oil and they seem to push 5w30 or 10w30 for the yanmar engine per the temperature chart.

 

[WinterDeere]

TYM specs a 50hr service for the engine oil/filter, transaxle oil/filters and front axle gear oil change.

Every 50 hours, or just first 50 hours? I can’t recall another machine with an oil filter that required every 50 hour engine oil changes. That’s normally just walk-behinds with single-cylinder engines.

 

[ning]

Every 50 hours, or just first 50 hours? I can’t recall another machine with an oil filter that required every 50 hour engine oil changes. That’s normally just walk-behinds with single-cylinder engines.

I assume you're talking about the transaxle oil & filter here?
I change a diesel engine's oil filter with every oil change, pretty sure that's normal.

 

[WinterDeere]

I assume you're talking about the transaxle oil & filter here?
I change a diesel engine's oil filter with every oil change, pretty sure that's normal.

Yes, of course. But JTKub said his TYM specified 50 hours for engine oil. It’d be crazy if that was every 50 hours.

 

[jjeff]

Per owners manual on my tiny tym rk rebrand tractor first extensive service is at fifty hours than every few hundred or so hrs. Anyone remember when most new things required a break in service requiring fluid and filters? My Yamaha outboard requires a pretty extensive 20 hr break in servicing.

 

[JTKub]

Every 50 hours, or just first 50 hours? I can’t recall another machine with an oil filter that required every 50 hour engine oil changes. That’s normally just walk-behinds with single-cylinder engines.

Just the first 50hrs. Then it's something like every 200hrs for engine oil and longer for trans and front axle. I don't have the book near me at the moment.

 

[WinterDeere]

Ok. That's normal. Like jjeff said, "break-in service". Gets rid of the assembly lube and the first several hours of everything seating in.

 

[arzenmaster]

Yes
We do. Mahindra 1100 series.
790 lb fel lift.
If you weren’t going to lift and load with the tractor, you could use a 3 point attachment to carry dirt, debris, logs etc.
Front mount snow blowers almost necessitate a shield of some sort such as a cab.
So this Mahindra provides a cab, 52” pto belly mower that gets off and on in minutes plus your mid pto snow thrower.

I know this is an old thread, but I've been learning alot about the 1100 series.

Apparently, the mid PTO front mount snow blower made by Beromac for Mahindra and Bercomac branded snow blowers are incompatible with the Mahindra quick mount belly mower brackets.

The front mount snow blower specifically requires you to remove the mowers frame mounted PTO brackets before installing the snow blower. Read the highlighted paranthesis from the snow blower manual.

I've gone to 3 different dealers and none of them had a clue about how this tractor works. In fact, only one new that the quick attach deck was an auto capture. They incorrectly described the deck mounting as the same as an eMax. until I asked them to look at the owners manual.

The dealer who actually knew how the deck functioned, was unaware that the mower mounting PTO assembly needed to be removed and called their mahindra rep to verify. He was told that a rework of the mounting system was being contemplated, so you don't have to disassemble the PTO bracketing to install the snow blower.

I still don't know if they meant the mower deck mounting or the snow blower.

 

[jjeff]

Quick update on 21 HP rural king plowing snow it does a pretty good job, however vbar tire chains and a better tph weight box will definitely help when I find the time to build one . My hacked together cheap Chinese sxs plow I welded to a blank qa plate works good the plow was built well enough I used it 3x to get my tractor unstuck by curling it flat and curling it the other way while simultaneously using the reverse pedal and rear locker. It definitely isn't like my old l2850 with shuttle shift and loader only and I'm learning how to plow with my tiny tractor it as is last time I didn't get stuck once lol. Much quicker than a 4 wheeler with plow, chains and weight on the back receiver. My plow on tiny tractor is 72" usually always angled. Still can easily push banks back farther than 4 wheeler for sure. I won't discuss previous snow removal methods using an underpowered Chinese built self contained atv snowblower.

 

[sd455dan]

Congrats on the RK glad to hear it is serving you well.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Thank you for the update, good to hear the new tractor is earning it's keep this winter.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I have a Kubota BX at our lake cabin, which has some steep hills. Side hill cutting is out of the question, but vertically it’s great - will climb about anything in 4wd low… so it works well as long as you work within its limitations. You’re right though… suicidal taking a hill horizontally.

Remember to clime steep hills in reverse as going forward up hills unloads a fair amount of weight from the front axle making it very easy to wheelie and that will happen faster than you would believe. If you must go forward up a steep hill make sure you have the ROPS up and your seat belt on.

 

[AnotherBueller]

Go thru less than two face cords a winter and that's if I'm up there a lot in the winter try and make wood once a year in spring or early summer rotate two separate stacks stored in garage to season each one for over a year at a time. Have an older cheap 25 ton splitter up north kind of a pain to transport, currently cutting and splitting at my dad's over a hundred miles away using maples cut down that were blocking his satellite service, lol. I use a smaller electric splitter down state splitting hardwood for fire place ambiance fires, occasionally split softer evergreens for outdoor camp fires at times it's difficult splitting hardwood with underpowered electric splitter and I usually have to cut rounds smaller to split. Anyways my wood stove primary source of heat, up north can take 20 inch logs, may go with Heavier duty electric but I'd rather utilize tractors PTO to split I usually transport splitter to felled tree instead of transporting cut rounds to splitter and subsequent electric outlet I'll need. Utilize either a sxs or 4 wheele with a cheap garden trailer transporting split wood. If that cheap consumer grade kohler motor on 25 ton splitter blows up or becomes increasingly unreliable may transfer hydraulic components to a homemade 3 point splitter to run off tractor pto However don't care for doing many projects up there anymore. A lot has to do with usually making a hundred plus mile roundtrip looking for something I need or think I do.

I've found the easiest why for me is to use the tractor to drag as long a section of tree that I can drag to my stacking area and cut to length and split there. Less handling after splitting. Split and stack rather than split stack on trailer or in bucket; go back to storage area and re-stack. I can pull more wood in one trip as a tree than I can as splits in the bucket ir in my small (500Lb) trailer.

 

[WinterDeere]

Remember to clime steep hills in reverse as going forward up hills unloads a fair amount of weight from the front axle making it very easy to wheelie and that will happen faster than you would believe. If you must go forward up a steep hill make sure you have the ROPS up and your seat belt on.

It really depends on what you're doing. Case in point: Reversing up steep hills with a loader in 2wd is dangerous, as the rear can become light enough to end up freewheeling down the hill. A 4wd machine can solve this problem, if you actually shift into 4wd, but can still make the machine a bit nose heavy if the load in the bucket is anywhere near capacity for the rear ballast you're running.