9 Worst Things You Can Do to a Diesel Engine

[eco88]

"In diesel engines, where internal pressures and operating temperatures are often higher than in gas engines.."

That statement is wrong. Diesel burns much colder than gas and is less violent than gas, that's why diesel engines last much longer as diesel does much less wear and tear on the engine parts compared to gas

 

[Hodado]

My first diesel pickup was the 6.2 - an engine that doesn't have a great reputation - the truck rotted away around it but the engine never failed me. 3,000 mile oil changes (100 hour tractor) is cheap insurance to a reliable and long lasting engine.
Heating oil BTW is the same as diesel - untaxed and illegal for road use but is also ultra low sulfur - at least in the state I reside in.

I had a 6.2 in a K5 Chevy Blazer and had more trouble with the starter than anything I think I replaced it four times

 

[dbritt]

You were told wrong. It’s actually lower than our 15ppm limit.
A couple of Eastern European countries still allow higher, but not Western Europe

View attachment 4453906

I wonder where on this list Russia and China would be? ;-)

 

[dbritt]

The OP is obviously an AI generated list. AI compositions used to stick out like a sore thumb. Not any more. Sometimes you have to look closely to detect them. Answers that just don't quite seem right, or don't seem to apply to the question at hand. I live in SW Missouri. I guess we are lucky down here in farm country. We have 2 grades of diesel, dyed and clear. That's it. Where we all buy our diesel around here the pump says nothing about any of these parameters. There's one hose to use. The pump just says "Diesel". I'll have to look to see if it even says #1 or #2. But honestly, here in farming country, we all just buy whatever the supplier delivers and don't worry about all this stuff. It wouldn't do any good anyway, as we don't have any other choices in diesel. I've got other things to worry about, like paying my income and property taxes, insurance on my place, utility bills, where to eat lunch, etc. What diesel I burn is pretty much at the bottom of my non-AI-generated list.

 

[Bentrim]

Don't agree with some points made in this discussion.
1. All diesel fuels are not the same. We had a customer whose combine always had a light colored smoke, he was doing some custom work and filled the tank with the farmers fuel and the smoke went away, when he filled with his own fuel the smoke returned.
2.If starting fluid is so bad why did manufacturers install devices to inject it? As someone that worked at a farm equipment dealers we used either to start many diesel engines, without any damage.Never did find it to work on gasoline engines.
After the glow plug system died on my 6.2 diesel used to give it a sniff to start when cold. The body died before the engine, in fact sold the engine for a fellow to put in his truck, and it had over 300, miles on it.
3. Is it better to leave a diesel sit and warm up or leave it run just long enough to get the oil circulating and a little heat in the combustion chambers, and then move out under a light load until it is up to temperature?

 

[dbritt]

Unless it's very cold (like today) I let mine run at about 1000rpm for a minute, then take off. If it's below 35 or 40 degrees I'll let it run at fast idle another 3 or 4 minutes if I have time to wait. But, I don't work my tractors hard anymore since I retired. I wouldn't drop a plow until the engine is warm, but scooping up a load of dirt and hauling it a few yards doesn't bother me at all. My Kubota M9000 is 22 years old, bought new in 2003, and I have never once had any issues with the engine whatsoever. Of course everyone's mileage may vary.

 

[neilpaku]

Idling an engine at cold start is not best practice. Much better to lightly load the engine right from the get-go to promote rapid warm-up. This applies to gas engines as well. As soon as I start, I move - lightly but moving for sure.

 

[neilpaku]

Best loaded operating range is between the torque and hp peaks (latter is "usually" full throttle). Always makes me laugh when some say two-stroke Detroits "must be kept screaming". It's just not true. Example - common 8V71 NA build - torque peak is 1400rpm and high idle is 2100. That's how I run all my diesels under load. When not under load (e.g. driving the pickup around empty), then I let the truck decide itself.

 

[Racer11]

I run red dye in my 02 f250 7.3 with 44K all the time, they never check on a pick up truck and it run just the same with road fuel.

 

[HayFarmer]

I was taught that only applies to diesels with glow plugs or pre-heat systems doesn't it??
used sparingly has been a staple for century hasn't it?
its still sold today for use on diesels by many manufacturers like Lucas etc..... approved for use on diesels.

happy to be proven wrong though.
Cheers

When used correctly (only add when engine is turning, and in small amounts) it is fine. Ol' Super Blue (Ford 9600) came with the system.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

The differences between on road and off road are - red dye and fuel Taxes. But, depending on the area one or the other may have sat longer.

I couldn't care less how long the fuel has been sitting.

Most of mine is about three years old by now, and one tank closer to 10. Treated and stored correctly it doesn't seem to matter one bit how old the fuel is.

 

[dodge man]

"In diesel engines, where internal pressures and operating temperatures are often higher than in gas engines.."

That statement is wrong. Diesel burns much colder than gas and is less violent than gas, that's why diesel engines last much longer as diesel does much less wear and tear on the engine parts compared to gas

I’m not sure I agree with you. Diesels run high compression and in some cases are working at very high throttle settings for long periods of time. Diesels are built for it though.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Diesels generally are in to 40:1 - 50:1 compression ratio, and well over 400 psi in a compression check ... IIRC ...

There is a reason there is a hefty upcharge for a diesel engine in a pickup truck over the standard gasser ... They cost more to make!

 

[Minsid]

Regarding shutting off with a hot turbo. I see why not to do so but how long should one wait. There is no gage to check that it has cooled. Is this 30 seconds at idle? 5 min?

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Some trucks have a pyrometer which shows exhaust temperature, once they cool off you can shut it down.

A hot turbo is one that's been working hard, not puttering around ...

On my semi-truck I back off the fuel a bit before the off ramp, and ease on down to the stop sign/light, unless it's a steep uphill from the end of the ramp, it's not working hard to get into a truck stop, when I ease up to the fuel pump, I set the brakes and shut it off ...

If I'm pulling a long steep grade, and stop at the very top for a rest area, I leave it running for 5 minutes ...

I don't have a turbo on either of my tractors.

 

[John0829]

I had a 6.2 in a K5 Chevy Blazer and had more trouble with the starter than anything I think I replaced it four times

The 6.2 that I owned I really liked, especially the 27-28 mpg that it was giving me only problem was the transmission would go "T's" up at about 20K. Truck left the farm when the transmission gave out the third time.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

The 6.2 I use is in an M1009, my tug/trailer mover.

It gets starting fluid every time, just more in the winter, since only half of the glow plugs work. Well, several years ago they did, that might have changed.

Not worried about the TH400 giving up, and if it does I have a spare. When/if the 6.2 croaks it'll either get a "new" one from a Suburban or I'll put a 350 gasser in it.

The latter would be more humane since this "abuse vehicle" gets short tripped quite frequently.

 

[Hay Dude]

Regarding shutting off with a hot turbo. I see why not to do so but how long should one wait. There is no gage to check that it has cooled. Is this 30 seconds at idle? 5 min?

It’s a good question. I usually wait ~5 minutes if I’m coming in hot and you can hear the turbo spooled-up, but that’s just a guideline.
I usually come into the shop at road speed from a field miles away, so I tend to wait longer since I’m probably 1200 degrees at the turbo. Here I am on the road, not exactly pushing it because it’s a windy, dangerous road, but still the turbo is boosting pretty good.

Here I am pulling in tonight into my barn. I’ll just let it cool off a good 3-5 minutes.

If you are just moving around your yard at partial speed, a few minutes of idling is all it takes.

Just park, idle down, and find something to do for a few minutes (grease fittings, blow out radiator, clean-up, etc.) and that will help your turbo bearings and oil from coking.

 

[90cummins]

Don’t forget excessive idling &
Insufficient load to properly warm combustion chamber, oil & coolant.
90cummins

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Diesels generally are in to 40:1 - 50:1 compression ratio

Do the mfg's know that? I bet you that would be BIG news to them!!

SR