PEX crimp tool?

[bdhsfz6]

The problem with PEX crimp fittings is, they are restrictive. Too many in a run effectively reduces the flow rate of 3/4" pipe down close to that of 1/2".

Sharkbite fittings are slightly less restrictive but far more expensive. There are situations, especially in tight spots, where the cost is justified.

 

[4570Man]

The problem with PEX crimp fittings is, they are restrictive. Too many in a run effectively reduces the flow rate of 3/4" pipe down close to that of 1/2".

Sharkbite fittings are slightly less restrictive but far more expensive. There are situations, especially in tight spots, where the cost is justified.

You shouldn’t have to use many fittings anyway. It shouldn’t take over 2-3 per branch. And faucets have flow restrictions anyway that’s far lower than the pipe capacity. Maybe for a select few applications it might be a problem but for regular house plumbing it’s a non issue.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Also, PexB pipe is surprisingly cheap, and fittings expensive, vs cpvc, where the pipe is quite a bit more, but the fittings are dirt cheap. Yes, you do use less fittings with Pex, but you do still use them.

My main complaint is crimping in confined spaces, vs dab some glue, insert and twist...

Oh, and PEX is a joy to cut, not that PVC/CPVC is bad, but pex just cuts easy, straight, and never cracks when cutting

Way back in post #3 I recommended a block crimper. That works in confined spaces.

 

[Topzide]

Also using manifolds for bathrooms helps. That's what I did with mine when I replaced that Grey crap! On a 3/4 line, the manifold increased to a 1" with 1/2" outside. If I had to do it again, I would buy the Ryobi crimper since I have other 18v tools from their line.

 

[bdhsfz6]

You shouldn’t have to use many fittings anyway. It shouldn’t take over 2-3 per branch. And faucets have flow restrictions anyway that’s far lower than the pipe capacity. Maybe for a select few applications it might be a problem but for regular house plumbing it’s a non issue.

This is true in new construction where every faucet is a "home run" back to the supply. It's not always practical for doing retrofits without doing a lot of renovating.

It's been my practice to use a size larger PEX pipe than the original it replaces. This is especially true on lower pressure well water systems.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, When installed right, I have more faith in CPVC, but you do have more connections/joints. One issue, people have absolutely been known to have too much bend in cpvc, and it's fine, until years down the road, its not. I could also see PEX rubbing on a truss plate, or something else, and rubbing a hole?

The new house is all Pex (i think PEX B), added if/when I need to repair or modifiy, I will add PEX on.

One thing I've found at the new house, the 1" pvc from well tank to the filter, was thin wall.... I'm 95% sure that was a home owner add on

Edit: I didn't say it, cause to me, it's obvious, but we'll to point of connection is PVC, and the home is Pex

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

Good post, lots of info here. Had no idea there was an A and B pex. I use to use PVC for most things. Had the 80 yr old hose redone in PEX. Gotta go look and see what they put in.

I also wondered about the freezing issues with Pex. The old PVC we dripped the water in below 27 degree temps. Makes me wonder what the impact is on my well.

Had to look up A and B saw this pretty good video.

https://willplumb.com/pex-a-vs-pex-b-pros-and-cons/

 

[Oaktree]

My main complaint is crimping in confined spaces, vs dab some glue, insert and twist...

Yeah, when I re-did my house a few years ago there were some sections I had to pre-assemble for that reason. Nice thing with Pex B (before reading this thread didn't know there were 2 kinds) is that if you're careful you can cut the crimp ring and get the joint apart if you make a mistake.

This is true in new construction where every faucet is a "home run" back to the supply. It's not always practical for doing retrofits without doing a lot of renovating.

It's been my practice to use a size larger PEX pipe than the original it replaces. This is especially true on lower pressure well water systems.

That's what I did here, used a larger size as a trunk line and had reducing tees for each branch run. Manifold method didn't make much sense on this 200 year old house.

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

Just did some more reading on PEX. Not only is there A, B but C and AL. I was curious what type is best for freezing. So the crimper type would matter what you used from what I read.

B &C use the same type crimper. Not sure what AL uses.

 

[4570Man]

Just did some more reading on PEX. Not only is there A, B but C and AL. I was curious what type is best for freezing. So the crimper type would matter what you used from what I read.

B &C use the same type crimper. Not sure what AL uses.

Type A can be expanded which maintains the inside diameter of the tube. A can also be crimped. B is crimp only. I have no idea what the other grades are for.

 

[paulsharvey]

I actually would be interested in the fusable LDPE/MDPE/HFPE you see in eastern europe, with the hot iron fusion, like what you see with HDPE water bain bore pipe. Solvent weld (glue) and heat welding are both really well proven, over 50 year spans. With PEX, each joint, you have 3 sources of failure at each joint, the rings, the fitting itself, and the pipe at the joint.

May worry with heat fusion, on something like a 12" WM, each weld you might take 20 minutes "deli slicing", butting up, heating iron, and compressing the joint. I could see production homes, guys holding long enough for "union work" and moving on.

The stuff I've seen, it creates a bell and spigot heat weld, not the butt joint like in water/sewer/gas.

 

[pmsmechanic]

With PEX, each joint, you have 3 sources of failure at each joint, the rings, the fitting itself, and the pipe at the joint.

What I like about pex is that it's so forgiving. You don't have to make a perfect joint and it doesn't leak. If your alignment is off just twist the fittings to where you want them. If you have a pex to pipe thread for the hot water tank you can thread it on all the way without being concerned that the pex part of the fitting leaking.

 

[4570Man]

I actually would be interested in the fusable LDPE/MDPE/HFPE you see in eastern europe, with the hot iron fusion, like what you see with HDPE water bain bore pipe. Solvent weld (glue) and heat welding are both really well proven, over 50 year spans. With PEX, each joint, you have 3 sources of failure at each joint, the rings, the fitting itself, and the pipe at the joint.

May worry with heat fusion, on something like a 12" WM, each weld you might take 20 minutes "deli slicing", butting up, heating iron, and compressing the joint. I could see production homes, guys holding long enough for "union work" and moving on.

The stuff I've seen, it creates a bell and spigot heat weld, not the butt joint like in water/sewer/gas.

The only time I’ve ever had pex leak was when I tried cutting the tube off to re use the fittings and nicked the fitting a little bit. The same thing can happen to the brass ones if they get throw in a bucket without the protective shipping band. I’m mostly talking about the expansion fittings. The crimp fittings have a wider sealing band that’s less likely to be damaged. One of my favorite things about pex is the connection can be made if the pipe is wet which neither solder or glue can be. It’s also odorless and doesn’t need primer that always spills everywhere.

 

[paulsharvey]

I can't tell you how many cans of blue glue (rain or shine) I've bought, used a quarter of a can, and threw out kater as it had dried up. Yeah, turning the can upside down on the lid helps some, but it still dries up.

You can absolutely use cpvc glue (blue type glue) on wet pipe, but not running water situation.

Can you crimp off pex (kink to stop a leak) like you can PE water/gas? and it return to normal afterwards, or does it affect the wall structure?

 

[mikester]

I still have memories of Polybutylene pipe which was heavily promoted in the 1980's as the best thing ever because it's easier for the installers and it lasts forever. Problem was that 30 years later the stuff turns brittle and fails catastrophically.

I'm weary of PEX. It hasn't been around long enough IMHO.

CD's and DVD's are supposed to last 50-100 years. I have data backup CD's and DVD's less than 20 years old that are now unreadable. New tech is always promising the moon but good luck trying to collect on that promise down the road when you are caught holding the bag. DPF anyone?

 

[paulsharvey]

I still have memories of Polybutylene pipe which was heavily promoted in the 1980's as the best thing ever because it's easier for the installers and it lasts forever. Problem was that 30 years later the stuff turns brittle and fails catastrophically.

I'm weary of PEX. It hasn't been around long enough IMHO.

CD's and DVD's are supposed to last 50-100 years. I have data backup CD's and DVD's less than 20 years old that are now unreadable. New tech is always promising the moon but good luck trying to collect on that promise down the road when you are caught holding the bag. DPF anyone?

I don't disagree.

I think it was 1999-2001, anyone remember Hardiepipe. It was used for storm drains, and the idea was it was lighter, cheaper than reinforced concrete pipe and came in like 16 ft length, instead of the 8 ft for RCP. It was everything you wanted in a culvert or storm drain. Except it delaminates, and is very fragile, just like Hardieboard.

Asbestos Water Mains, never corroded, non of the tuberculation that came with Cast Iron/Ductile Iron. It's just that it is very fragile, and the whole asbestos thing when working on it/cutting/demoing, it's completely safe for the water though


If today I was putting pressure pipe under the slab in my new build home; I think I would be tempted to go Sch-80 PVC from well/meter (20 ft sections, of bell and spigot pipe) to water heater and utility room, and go cpvc from their to fixtures. But I don't know that I would be completely against PEX from utility room to fixtures, in the walls.

On the DWV side, plain sch 40 PVC. I know there is the black, ABS I think, and there is/was a weird foam core crap, but plain white PVC sch-40, is good stuff. I would consider having my trunk line to septic/street in C900 bell and gasket sewer pipe as well, that's a very well proven system.

At the same time, I dont want to be so stuck in the old ways that we never accept new products, that really are better. Otherwise we would still be puring lead in cast Iron drain lines, and manually threading galvanized water lines...

 

[paulsharvey]

If it was production home construction, if it's an approved material, and it's cheaper (that's material and labor combined), and quicker, I would use it. You only have a 1 year warranty, and it really is on the agencies that approve materials, building department folks at that point.

 

[paulsharvey]

"There is PEX A and PEX B. I'll let you research that independently. However know that the big box stores only sell PEX B. Plumbing supply houses sell PEX A. "

Here, Ace sells PexA and it's fittings. Home Depot has PexA on one side of the isle and PexB on the other, with plenty of pipe, fittings, and tools/accessories for both. Not anywhere near as much as CPVC, but a pretty good selection.

 

[Topzide]

I tore out the old polybutelene that was in my modular home that was leaking at a fitting! Went with the Pex-A and the crimp rings. Bought the crimper to do 3/8 - 1" and the ring cutters for the opps! I would have loved to do the home run setup and, if building, would do in a heartbeat! I have faith that this will last waaaay better than the prior stuff! I'm on a well, and that can cause issues with copper. Hope that I'm done with piping in current place!