Trailer brake is stuck

[4570Man]

I’d recommend changing the whole thing. That size brake drums aren’t very expensive. My experience is once the magnet drag area is worn not smooth that they don’t work worth a crap. The magnet has to stick firmly to the drum to function and the ridges in the drum drastically reduce its sticking strength.

 

[4570Man]

Got the brake apart!
TGMT, you were right.

View attachment 1800908


I thought that if it was friction material that since the first thing I did was reverse, that rolling the wheel forward might un-stick it.
You can see my strap-wrap and the come-a-long.
It worked (easily).
View attachment 1800911

the friction material is still 4.5mm thick.
I'm thinking this 1998 trailer has had an easy life.

View attachment 1800929
Here's the magnet shoe.
First time I've worked on a trailer brake - but this looks like it has a long lifetime remaining.

So I have to order some brake shoes.
How can I figure out what size brake this is?

Take some measurements to verify but a readily available 6 lug brake kit should get you fixed up.

 

[Sodo]

Thanks PMS, I think it's 12x2. I ordered brake shoes and wheel seals for two wheels. Not so bad.....$75

These hubs look like they are barely used (for a 1998 trailer). There's no lip at all. If it wasn't for that friction material coming loose there's nothing to do inside this brake. I think the best time spent would be to check status of the other 3 brakes.

And 4 more on my other trailer.

 

[TMGT]

If yours is anything like mine the other brake assemblies aren't far behind, I found it cheaper to replace the whole brake assemblies on 7k and lighter axles and just clean up the drums if still in spec.

 

[Sodo]

What do you mean by "far behind"? I see them as "un-used". There is no drum cleanup, there is no wear at all not even a fingernail.

Except for "time".

I don't know if there's any way to know if another shoe is about to shed its (new condition but 26 years old) friction material. Replacing all four would be prudent I suppose, but my other trailer likely needs my attention (more) because it goes on the freeway. I never use this dump trailer on the freeway.

 

[ArlyA]

Rusty is kinda the same thing as wore out.

 

[TMGT]

What do you mean by "far behind"? I see them as "un-used". There is no drum cleanup, there is no wear at all not even a fingernail.

Except for "time".

I don't know if there's any way to know if another shoe is about to shed its (new condition but 26 years old) friction material. Replacing all four would be prudent I suppose, but my other trailer likely needs my attention (more) because it goes on the freeway. I never use this dump trailer on the freeway.

The adhesive that holds the linings onto the shoes will fail when they get old. The brake assemblies are just the complete backing assemblies.
The drum/hubs are probably fine as long as they are in spec and not major grooving on the braking surface or magnet surface.

 

[dstig1]

Well it's over 25 years old which is like 75 in car years (jk)... I'd replace and go over everything too. Reset the clock.

 

[Sodo]

Extra time & energy & $$ go to more important projects.
My flatbed trailer has two brakes unable to skid their tires.

===========

New shoes and a new seal.
Bearings were absolutely perfect.

I changed the seal just because it had a tiny 'flat' on the sealing ridge.
The adjuster screw was real nice too, but stuck solid.
I freed up the adjuster and put anti-seize on the threads and inside its sleeve.

OK so on to adjusting these brakes.
Is it same as a vehicle?
I'm thinking that I tighten the adjuster good and tight, then back off until the drum spins free.

How free? Should it have some friction with the new shoes?

 

[airbiscuit]

Nice, but after all that work, why not spray paint the internals?

 

[4570Man]

View attachment 1817034

Extra time & energy & $$ go to more important projects.
My flatbed trailer has two brakes unable to skid their tires.

===========

New shoes and a new seal.
Bearings were absolutely perfect.

I changed the seal just because it had a tiny 'flat' on the sealing ridge.
The adjuster screw was real nice too, but stuck solid.
I freed up the adjuster and put anti-seize on the threads and inside its sleeve.

OK so on to adjusting these brakes.
Is it same as a vehicle?
I'm thinking that I tighten the adjuster good and tight, then back off until the drum spins free.

How free? Should it have some friction with the new shoes?

I like to adjust them until I can hear it touch but no real drag. I’m afraid it would overheat to go any tighter.

 

[Hay Dude]

I like to adjust them until I can hear it touch but no real drag. I’m afraid it would overheat to go any tighter.

That’s what I do.

 

[dodge man]

Some are self adjusting also. My Dexter axles say they adjust going both forward and backwards.

 

[WinterDeere]

Some are self adjusting also. My Dexter axles say they adjust going both forward and backwards.

Primary braking usually is. But parking brakes that use drum inside disc tech are usually not, those have to be hand-adjusted.

 

[Sodo]

You can see in the pics there is no self-adjusting mechanism on these brakes.

I set them so the shoes touched, and decided to “drive it” a bit, and then “remember” to adjust again later to “touching” again.

Anyway it’s returned to service now, thanks for all the assistance!!

 

[DJ54]

I bought a complete set of brakes/hubs for my old Eager Beaver tag-a-long 20 years ago from Dexter. Pretty disappointed bearing were made in China. Bearing cage came apart on the left front axle and lost the entire tire& hub. Wasn't my first rodeo, I had a habit of pulling them all and greasing/adjusting over the winter for 20+ years.

Checked the bearing numbers and bought all U.S.A Timken bearing off ebay and installed them. Used that trailer another 14 years before selling it with no issues. Still pulled them every 2 years and packed the bearings.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

This thread has made me appreciate my trailer's disc brakes even more.

And reminded me about how dirt cheap Class 8 brake stuff is.

 

[Sodo]

I was pleased how easy and low-cost this repair was too. I dumped 2 loads yesterday. Happy it's all working again with fairly minimal effort.

I was especially pleased that the drums were as-new condition as well as the bearings. I was afraid to find a run-out hub, that suggested the other three were about to give it up too.

 

[Renze]

Can you back off the adjuster?

My thoughts too. The adjuster in the picture in above post, looks identical to the adjusters on European surge brake systems from Alko and Knott..

If theres a pry hole for a screw driver you can back it off, then pull it to the shop with the truck to grind the rust off by dragging the brake, so pulling the drum by hand becomes a lot easier.

 

[Renze]

This thread has made me appreciate my trailer's disc brakes even more.

And reminded me about how dirt cheap Class 8 brake stuff is.

1000/1300/1500/1800kg light duty stuff is dirt cheap in Europe. 9 ton class 8 stuff too.

But brake parts for 2500/3500kg axles that is made to order in low volumes, oh my!
When i worked in the trailer business 15 years ago, we used 5.5 ton axles as standard, even on trailers on which we used a 4 ton air suspension and 3.5 ton rated tires: Still cheaper than custom ordering a complete set of 3.5 ton axle and suspension, and hoping the manufacturer wouldnt reschedule manufacturing them, when they were busy and didnt want to waste time retooling production.