Pocket Door Question

[HawkinsHollow]

I am about to install 3 pocket doors in my addition. I have done this before but it has been years. There are 2 types of pocket doors readily available at the big box stores. A kit that is pre-built with wooden sides for drywall and a kit that you build in place with metal studs.

The build in place one is $100 cheaper and comes in a soft close/open variety. I wanted to use that one, but here is the caveat. 2 of these pocket doors will be in the side wall of our walk thru closet, one in my wifes side wall one in mine. I feel like the version with horizontal wooden sides will make for a more versatile and usable wall than 2 measly metal studs. The wooden horizontal one could allow hooks to be used in that wall. The 2 metal studs really do not help much at all at all. I do kind of like the soft open and close option. If I use that one I will immediately buy a backup set of rollers though, in case these screw up 10 years from now and the same ones are not available.

AM I OVER THINKING THIS? OF COURSE I AM! I have done that for every step of the way and I will continue to do so until I am done, that is how I do things. I plan on living here until the cart my old a$$ out on in a wheel chair.

Whatcha think? Also any pocket door tips, tricks, warnings or guidance is graciously accepted as well. HAPPY FRIDAY Y'ALL!

 

[2manyrocks]

I've never installed a pocket door, but have installed a lot of regular doors.

What I understand is pocket doors depend on careful installation to operate properly. Wood may swell or warp with changes in humidity which can affect their tracking straight into the wall.

Metal studs may not appear to be as strong, but won't change much with changes in humidity. The strength depends on also having drywall installed over them. I've built walls with thin metal studs. They are straighter, lighter, and strong once put together. The disadvantage, IMO, is if you have to run electric lines through them and then they require the installation of sleeves to protect the lines from the sharp edges of metal.

Which is best I can't say, but I can say to watch out for changes in humidity. Picked up some 1x4s from Home Depot that I carefully inspected this week. By the time I got them home, I was seeing cracks develop and one was starting to bow.

 

[dadohead]

Don't know about the build in place version.... can't help there. I apprenticed under my father in the cabinet shop years ago and was a trim carpenter in the 70's. A couple tips:

• When installing the trim around your pocket door opening, secure the casing and jamb (on one side) with finish screws so it can easily be removed if the door ever gets knocked off its track. Those parts can be pre-finished so the screws don't get painted in.
• Know that pocket door fames have no "meat" down low to nail base moulding (of any height) to. Anticipate using mastic and a cross stretcher (as a clamp) to glue the base in those areas.

Hope this helps!

 

[2manyrocks]

What about using a less complicated sliding barn style door on the exterior of the wall?

 

[HawkinsHollow]

What about using a less complicated sliding barn style door on the exterior of the wall?

I suppose it is an option. The only reason I don't like those is then the entire side of the wall is useless for anything else. Can't put anything on floor, can't hang anything. Aso that will definetely not work between closet and bathroom, could work in wall between BR and closet.

 

[2manyrocks]

Somewhere in the back of my mind I think I recall reading that a 2x6 wall is recommended for pocket door walls in order to have enough space in the wall for the door?

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Somewhere in the back of my mind I think I recall reading that a 2x6 wall is recommended for pocket door walls in order to have enough space in the wall for the door?

Nope, 2x4 is adequate, thus the need for the crazy frames.

 

[scootr]

Retired carpenter. I don't like pocket doors. The latches and sliders are fiddly and they do not seal as well as swing doors. Invariably somebody puts a nail in the wall to hang a picture hitting the door. I wouldn't use them.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've installed quite a few wood pocket doors. I've never seen the metal framing one before.

With the wooden ones, I always use 2x8's for the header. I've seen 2x6's used, but think that's too small for the span.

The wooden ones are very simple and easy to install. The biggest issue is to make sure you use really short sheetrock screws when attaching sheetrock to the horizontal 1x4's so nothing pokes through the wood and scratches the door.

You can install a shallow electrical box along the framing of the pocket door for a light switch.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Retired carpenter. I don't like pocket doors. The latches and sliders are fiddly and they do not seal as well as swing doors. Invariably somebody puts a nail in the wall to hang a picture hitting the door. I wouldn't use them.

Sorry, swinging doors just won't work for my application. I will be the one hanging any pictures, so iff that happens I have no one to blame but myself.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

I've installed quite a few wood pocket doors. I've never seen the metal framing one before.

With the wooden ones, I always use 2x8's for the header. I've seen 2x6's used, but think that's too small for the span.

The wooden ones are very simple and easy to install. The biggest issue is to make sure you use really short sheetrock screws when attaching sheetrock to the horizontal 1x4's so nothing pokes through the wood and scratches the door.

You can install a shallow electrical box along the framing of the pocket door for a light switch.

Well this wall is not load bearing at all. On the directions they have a 2x4 flat as the header. I was planning on using 2 on their ends. Light switch will be on other side of door.

 

[Racer4]

I’ve put in dozens of pocket doors over the years. Generally I prefer the wood framed ones. Not sure if they are still built the same, but the wood frame would allow you to fill in the horizontal spaces with more 1x lumber if needed.

The metal stud kits are fine and if you want to make the frame suitable for mounting things on the wall, you can get the clip kit and some 5/8” cdx plywood:

1515-PLY Pocket Door Frame Plywood Clip Set

Pocket Door Frame Reinforcement Kit

johnsonhardware.com

 

[ning]

We have a number of pocket doors in our place; they were the all-in-one pre-built install&go types.
They've held up really well.
I think they're a fantastic method of closing off small spaces without dealing with swinging doors; a number of ours have low-profile electric boxes in the pocket part.

My only complaint with them really is that they're pretty noisy opening & closing, because all of the vibration from the rolling wheels gets amplified by the large door panel. Oh, also, cats can easily open them if you don't turn the lock thing.

 

[bigtiller]

Retired carpenter. I don't like pocket doors. The latches and sliders are fiddly and they do not seal as well as swing doors. Invariably somebody puts a nail in the wall to hang a picture hitting the door. I wouldn't use them.

Another problem with them is kids or a mad wife. They can destroy a cheap sliding door almost at will.

The ones in the old farmhouse is the only ones worth having. 2x4 walls on both sides of a solid core door.

 

[dstig1]

I'd advise against the cheap ones, though really don't have a comment on metal vs wood. Johnson makes good heavy duty ones also, just go to their website and not the big box. And the soft close and open options are worth gold. Not only will it never slam, but it will pull itself open/closed and STAY THERE.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Well I went with the wood prebuilt ones, I feel like they are stronger. And I am on a bit of a time crunch they seem easier to install. I did not go with the soft open and close. Just one more thing to screw up, although it was VERY tempting. All 3 of these doors will be in our master suite so I will only have to worry about a mad wife tearing them up. Thanks for all of the comments.

 

[dstig1]

Oh man, don't skip the soft open/close. If this is your forever house, you will regret it...forever...

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Oh man, don't skip the soft open/close. If this is your forever house, you will regret it...forever...

Yeah? Is it that good? The frame is so chinsy looking. But I am almost convinced.It means I need to go back to HD tomorrow.

 

[dstig1]

Yes. Pocket doors bounce a lot on open and close and the very slightest out of level like 0.001" will make it open (or close) when you don't want it.

The pocket door frame relies on the drywall to stiffen it.

 

[ultrarunner]

I've installed quite a few wood pocket doors. I've never seen the metal framing one before.

With the wooden ones, I always use 2x8's for the header. I've seen 2x6's used, but think that's too small for the span.

The wooden ones are very simple and easy to install. The biggest issue is to make sure you use really short sheetrock screws when attaching sheetrock to the horizontal 1x4's so nothing pokes through the wood and scratches the door.

You can install a shallow electrical box along the framing of the pocket door for a light switch.

I had one that was constant problem until I upgraded the hardware.

Did that by cutting an access at track height to the rear on one side and covered with a removable plastic panel.

Some are not robust enough for a solid wood door.