Pocket Door Question

   / Pocket Door Question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I've installed quite a few wood pocket doors. I've never seen the metal framing one before.

With the wooden ones, I always use 2x8's for the header. I've seen 2x6's used, but think that's too small for the span.

The wooden ones are very simple and easy to install. The biggest issue is to make sure you use really short sheetrock screws when attaching sheetrock to the horizontal 1x4's so nothing pokes through the wood and scratches the door.

You can install a shallow electrical box along the framing of the pocket door for a light switch.
Well this wall is not load bearing at all. On the directions they have a 2x4 flat as the header. I was planning on using 2 on their ends. Light switch will be on other side of door.
 
   / Pocket Door Question #12  
I’ve put in dozens of pocket doors over the years. Generally I prefer the wood framed ones. Not sure if they are still built the same, but the wood frame would allow you to fill in the horizontal spaces with more 1x lumber if needed.

The metal stud kits are fine and if you want to make the frame suitable for mounting things on the wall, you can get the clip kit and some 5/8” cdx plywood:

 
   / Pocket Door Question #13  
We have a number of pocket doors in our place; they were the all-in-one pre-built install&go types.
They've held up really well.
I think they're a fantastic method of closing off small spaces without dealing with swinging doors; a number of ours have low-profile electric boxes in the pocket part.

My only complaint with them really is that they're pretty noisy opening & closing, because all of the vibration from the rolling wheels gets amplified by the large door panel. Oh, also, cats can easily open them if you don't turn the lock thing.
 
   / Pocket Door Question #14  
Retired carpenter. I don't like pocket doors. The latches and sliders are fiddly and they do not seal as well as swing doors. Invariably somebody puts a nail in the wall to hang a picture hitting the door. :LOL: I wouldn't use them.
Another problem with them is kids or a mad wife. They can destroy a cheap sliding door almost at will.

The ones in the old farmhouse is the only ones worth having. 2x4 walls on both sides of a solid core door.
 
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   / Pocket Door Question #15  
I'd advise against the cheap ones, though really don't have a comment on metal vs wood. Johnson makes good heavy duty ones also, just go to their website and not the big box. And the soft close and open options are worth gold. Not only will it never slam, but it will pull itself open/closed and STAY THERE.
 
   / Pocket Door Question
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Well I went with the wood prebuilt ones, I feel like they are stronger. And I am on a bit of a time crunch they seem easier to install. I did not go with the soft open and close. Just one more thing to screw up, although it was VERY tempting. All 3 of these doors will be in our master suite so I will only have to worry about a mad wife tearing them up. Thanks for all of the comments.
 
   / Pocket Door Question #17  
Oh man, don't skip the soft open/close. If this is your forever house, you will regret it...forever...
 
   / Pocket Door Question
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Oh man, don't skip the soft open/close. If this is your forever house, you will regret it...forever...
Yeah? Is it that good? The frame is so chinsy looking. But I am almost convinced.It means I need to go back to HD tomorrow.
 
   / Pocket Door Question #19  
Yes. Pocket doors bounce a lot on open and close and the very slightest out of level like 0.001" will make it open (or close) when you don't want it.

The pocket door frame relies on the drywall to stiffen it.
 
   / Pocket Door Question #20  
I've installed quite a few wood pocket doors. I've never seen the metal framing one before.

With the wooden ones, I always use 2x8's for the header. I've seen 2x6's used, but think that's too small for the span.

The wooden ones are very simple and easy to install. The biggest issue is to make sure you use really short sheetrock screws when attaching sheetrock to the horizontal 1x4's so nothing pokes through the wood and scratches the door.

You can install a shallow electrical box along the framing of the pocket door for a light switch.
I had one that was constant problem until I upgraded the hardware.

Did that by cutting an access at track height to the rear on one side and covered with a removable plastic panel.

Some are not robust enough for a solid wood door.
 

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