The guy that put the engine internals together says "The rings are not seated yet end the smoking is normal. Just give it a couple hours of work"

[sd455dan]

Previous Tractor repair shop. Discovered the loose bolts and the gear was one tooth off when I took it apart

Oh OK Well when the Ford is finally dialed in It will be a pleasure to use.

Old Fords are wonderful machines I Dare say equal to John Deere.or Kubota..

 

[D&D]

The muffler is just sat up there at this point since I have not put the hood on yet. Black ink like oil runs out of the junction between the muffler and the manifold. It runs down the motor and the fan blows it back on the valve cover and gas tank. It has smoke coming out of the muffler before the manifold is even warm.The amount of oil is hard to estimate. The oil level is at the full mark and has not gone down after 45 minutes of run time at 1000rpms to 1400rpms

Thanks

Ah, enough to make a mess but not get overly excited about.

” He put clevite on everything.” If he was pretty generous with it, that would account for some smoke.

” The pressure coincides with the 2 oil pressure gages. one electric one i installed on the dash and the manual one on the side of the motor.” Both off the same sending unit? How do we know that one’s accurate?

 

[TomSam]

Ah, enough to make a mess but not get overly excited about.

” He put clevite on everything.” If he was pretty generous with it, that would account for some smoke.

” The pressure coincides with the 2 oil pressure gages. one electric one i installed on the dash and the manual one on the side of the motor.” Both off the same sending unit? How do we know that one’s accurate?

The manual one is an actual oil pressure gage with a short copper tube running to it. The electric one has a sender. I have a separate Low Oil Pressure alarm sender to a obnoxious buzzer. I put the manual one on for initial start up and to check make sure the electric one was reading right. .......Am I paranoid about burning the new motor up? Maybe...lol

 

[TomSam]

Oh OK Well when the Ford is finally dialed in It will be a pleasure to use.

Old Fords are wonderful machines I Dare say equal to John Deere.or Kubota..

Thanks! It seems like a beast with those big 4wd front tires. The power steering is smooth as silk....like it is not even touching the ground. The best part is no electronics.

 

[TractorTech]

If and when you do remove the top cover to access the PTO, you should also reseal the 3pt piston and examine the 3pt cylinder bore.

 

[Dman1981]

Overhauled literally thousands of engines never had one smoke like that have had bad sleeves and piston rings aftermarket ****.
Oil pressure bad oil pump or relief valve in pump or to
Much clearance in bearings
Did they cross hatch after boring
Are there seal on valve guides
My break in was start it up warm them up put on dyno and crank it up.
Check for leaks and run it for a few hours
I have had cranks break from shop not cutting a radius
I have had sleeves get sucked down again shop do not cut relief for sleeve
I have had water blow out from hole
In block and sleeve did not seal
Anything and everything can happen
Need to pull pan and palatinate crank pull pistons
And check for crosshatch
Also when assembling never use engine oil I used marvel
Mystery oil on all my over hauls
As soon as it gets hot is gone just enough lubricant for turning over
And starting. looks like the guy put assembly lube on pistons

 

[TomSam]

I wish I had your experience to draw from.

-I saw him check the crank bearings and they were well within the tolerance listed in the manual. I do not remember the numbers
-It is a new Oil pump (I know that does not mean not defective) The oil pressure gets low at RPMs less than 800 and after the temperature reaches 160F 12-15PSI
-I do not remember an obvious cross hatching on the piston walls. I attached a picture and it looks like no to me.
-Would I be able to see the the valve seals on the guides by pulling the valve cover? I am not sure. The company that did the heads has a great reputation but I do not know.
-He used Clevite on all the bearings but I do not think he put it on the pistons or rings. I am not sure ...if he did it was not much since it is bright red and very obvious.
-I am not familiar with "Palantinate". What is that and what does it do or show?

I appreciate your time and input on this. The ultimate call on what to do is up to the owner. I am so relieved I decided not put the actual engine intrnals together myself. My fear was that something like this would happen and engine building is not my expertise.

 

[ruffdog]

-I do not remember an obvious cross hatching on the piston walls. I attached a picture and it looks like no to me.

The picture of the block is interesting. That does NOT look like a bore/hone done by a machine shop. That looks like no boring was done but instead just a clean-up with 400 grit sandpaper. Each bore looks different (odd) and the left one still has a vertical mark that wasn't cleaned up.

 

[TomSam]

The picture of the block is interesting. That does NOT look like a bore/hone done by a machine shop. That looks like no boring was done but instead just a clean-up with 400 grit sandpaper. Each bore looks different (odd) and the left one still has a vertical mark that wasn't cleaned up.

There were ridges and water damage. The shop said they did not need sleeves since 040 cleaned them up. Is all I know

 

[TomSam]

If and when you do remove the top cover to access the PTO, you should also reseal the 3pt piston and examine the 3pt cylinder bore.

I will....Thanks