Tractor classification — HP vs torque

   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque #61  
torque longer compression stroke, shorter rod more RPM
 
   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque #64  
Back in my racing days it was torque that got you there, but it was horsepower that kept you there. I mean first place, that is. :cool:
 
   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque #65  
On a 4 stroke leave the motor stock if you place a turbo, if you want it to last, Id rather bigbore and play with compression ratio
 
   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque #66  
Some of the discussion here is more about reliability vs efficiency. You can push a small displacement engine to really high hp, example - F1 race cars making 1000 hp+ from a 1.5 liter 4 cylinder engine vs a tractor with a 6+ liter engine making 150 to 200 hp. The F1 engine is going to last about 500 miles at 150 mph (<6 hours) before needing a major overhaul, where the tractor engine will last 10,000 hr at least before needing repairs.
 
   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque #67  
A torque master;
600 Horsepower Snow Gas Engine

Now this is an engine, be a bit tight fitting in a tractor but,

This engine was manufactured by the Snow-Holly Works of Buffalo, New York, and is serial number G329. It has two tandem 24-inch bore x 48-inch stroke cylinders that are double-acting. Fuel for the engine is natural gas with make and break igniters providing ignition. Total displacement is 86,800 cubic inches or 1,423 liters. The rated output of the engine is 600 hp at 100 RPM, which yields a torque value of 31,500 ft-lbf.
 
   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque #68  
I placed a XR650L motor on a 400ex frame, bigbore 680, 720 Max bore is the sweet spot but need to hone cases for the bore to fit, You can 830 but need to beef up the crank case and its aluminum.

I stayed at 680 because I didn't like the compression ratio of the 720 piston options

Used dom steal to build the drag bars, and placed one behind motor

Need a oil rad cooler and place oil tank infront of it, Drill a hole in dip stick and place a cooking digital temp gauge , JB weld it

If you port the intakes to much you will lose vacuum, Some even JB the intake ports smaller for more vacuum, Or you can weld and grind it. I left it stock and 220 sand paper, plus placed carb boot on and matched it, I bought the 1988 boot to pull carb further from motor but had more hp with the stock one because its on an angle and the gas spins while entering the combustion cycle.

Get a honda civic after market K&N filter and aluminum pipe or none and raise the main jet if only dragging

The xr650r chrome sleeve motors have a nice carb that changing the main jet only takes a few mins and no need to take off motor.

I'l try to find a pic of it later
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Heres the hard to find piston if interested, you will need the 720 sleeve and hone base so sleeve is thick , but if only for dragging all you will need is the piston, this one is only +1.00 mm so stock sleeve will be ok, 102.41 is the piston I used if you can find it.


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Make sure you jet it right, New spark plug or clean old, Race it though all gears, stop and check color, looking for brown paper bag color, I used gsxr1100 dual pipes and cuplings with springs .good luck
 
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   / Tractor classification — HP vs torque
  • Thread Starter
#70  
This here illustrates how higher HP will get the job done faster but torque will get more work done…

 
 
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