I use the Stihl sharpening tool. I was skeptical at first but after I bought one, and watched a video on YT, I love it!!!! It's fast, easy and gets the chain very sharp. It also maintains the height relationship between the cutting teeth and the raker teeth (aka heigth gage). Watch a video on it and you'll understand better. It's about $30 and you should get some spare round files but they are only about $3 each. Highly recommend this tool. I have the electric chain sharpener you get from Northern Tool but this far easier.
Do These Actually Work...
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smaywork
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This is actually a Chinese Knock Off of a GAMN Sharpener patented in the '80'. I had a GAMN that did work, but I put the Carbide burrs in a battery drill and cut the teeth. At least this didn't burn the teeth. I don't know about these knock offs. Patent must have run out! Picture shows one on eBay currently.
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GSVette
Gold Member
So, I bought one on a lark- it works, barely and is certainly not an improvement over either a file with a guide or my Dremel chainsaw sharpening attachment.
Minor correction- the âratchetingâ feature is an improvement over either of my other sharpening tools.
Minor correction- the âratchetingâ feature is an improvement over either of my other sharpening tools.
I use a regular chain grinder in my shop, its fast and accurate. Tried that round stone once and it lasted about 5 min. I charge 3.00 off and 7.00 on. I retired but still have people coming in.
I've tried a lot of sharpeners, but the only one that has given consistent results is the Stihl 2 in 1.
cqaigy2
Super Member
Not really, they just set it up for where they think they'll get all the teeth a bit of a hair cut, except they end up giving them a buzz cut.
Page2
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For a light touch up just use a file, but it takes practice to hold the correct angle and pressure - practice on an old chain for a while. As stated by others - a Dremel tool attachment is a good option, you can change depth or size of stones for different chains. Again it takes practice to get it right - there are some absolutely terrible videos out there on this, completely ass-backwards demonstrations. Do it right and you'll be pleased with the results. Personally I've used a Dremel for probably 20 years.
HayFarmer
Silver Member
I don't see how that cranked thing could do much. Stones need to turn fast to do the job. Although I always have a file with me, and can touch up sitting on the ground with the saw facing me, I have an Oregon 12v that I put a trailer plug on and use it on my tailgate (if the truck is near).
Def looks like a Timberline, right down to the color. I have a timberline and like it. I don't sharpen often enough to get good at the technique so it makes it really easy to always get good results. Not cheap, but a high quality tool. Not for everyone, but it does a good job. As for the knock off, it might work fine. I'll stick with the Timberline though. I have multiple carbide cutters for it to use for all my saws.
Little Red Tractor
Platinum Member
I have a place that sharpens for 6 bucks. Saves me the frustration.
priberc
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Not sure how much you use your chainsaw but if I did not know how to sharpen a saw I would
1, learn the fundamentals of what is needed to make a chain cut. And what is needed to allow the bit of the chain to cut. Don't forget to find out what happens when you get either wrong and how to correct the mistake
2, When I have dulled[not destroyed]the chain. Then I would take the time to sharpen it.
You will both learn patience and formulate some method of keeping your chain out of the dirt/how to keep your chain sharp......"repetition makes muscle memory practice makes perfect"
That said....I am cheap and would need to run into some serious anger management issues before I resorted to a gadget such as this to sharpen anything even a relatively complex cutting device as a power saw chain is sharpened easily once it becomes habit
OP
WranglerX
Super Member
jwmorris
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This is pretty much it. If you keep it sharp with a file, itâs never going to get dull enough to need to grind on it.
You are keeping the edge vs creating it.
ArlyA
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Yes, but not really. Some of us hit rocks and its always on one side. Now you got lots of material to remove so right and left cutters still match.
fruitcakesa
Veteran Member
If that happens then a grinder makes for quick and easy repair of the damaged cutters. Much faster and less work than hand filing.
Richard
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Mine was an Ace Hardware that had a sharpening service. I started taking them there to be sharpened. One day, decided a specific tree (within distance of hitting house should it fall the wrong direction) needed taken down. Started sawing and the tree settled, pinching my bar.
Fine... I have an extra bar & chain this very circumstance. Got tools, removed powerhead from bar, put other bar and freshly sharpened chain.... and the freshly sharpened chain would cut melted butter. They neglected or forgot to file the rakers. Chain was useless. Wife's cousin next door....saw was down. Called brother in law, he said he'd come over "later" to see if he could help.
I decided to run into town, get replacements and come back to finish....meanwhile, I had the first cut of my wedge cut meaning the tree was cut something like 1/3 into the face with my bar sticking out.
As it happened, by the time I returned, my brother in law had arrived. He brought his saw and had dropped the tree before I returned.
I've never had anyone else sharpen my blades since then..... AND (if you've seen my comments elsewhere) this is another reason why I like the idea now of just digging part of the root ball and using my backhoe to push the tree over.
jwmorris
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Well, itâs a lot harder to keep chains sharp trying to saw rocks as they are not designed to do so.
One of these will help keep you from sawing rocks.
Then you donât have grind away the rest of the cutting edges on your chain when you mangle one with something it canât cut.
âstuff happensâ though thus the âthis is pretty much itâ, leaving room for exceptions that can at least keep a blade useful vs trash when mr. Murphy makes your chain eat rocks.
ArlyA
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We have a thread here about clearing trails. This kind of work is tough on chains. 
Here are some similar links:
